ESIrType? Posted April 20, 2003 Report Share Posted April 20, 2003 Yeah, Tex. I used thin was 3/4 thin wall. It was used for a moch st-bar I just welded it sold and it wasn't adjustable. Now we made a set out of aluminum. You do notice a difference over stock when going strut to strut, but it is more noticeable from strut to firewall to strut and then the other bar going strut to strut. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redquest Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 I had the Greddy bar first and it was good, then i bought the Stedbani tri kit with rear bar and camber plates and I have to say there is a big diffrence ;D but you will pay for it It depends what you want and how much money you can spend :'( Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarWoes Posted April 21, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 how much money you can spend???? i haven't seen money i can't spend yet ;D the lack of it holds me back LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 after taking a better look at th Stebeni stuff I have changed my mind about the. the front camber plates seem to give you a measily 1/4 inch of room for adjustment. thats nowhere nearly enough to give you a 3degree in camber. you need about 2inch travel room at the shock tower to get enough camber at the wheel. I am going to stick with either the Greddy for the front ST brace and the cusco camber plates. I will make something on my own to connect the tower to the firewall like the IMSA car. for the rear I am going to make something homemade too. I will be welding a new metal top plate to create room for some real adjustable camber like the IMSA car. the stebani rear camber plate is joke IMO. its 1inch thick so that the screw/nut will not stick out from the top hole so there is room for it to be adjustable, well that 1in thickness is at the cost of reducing suspension travel, thats a no-no especially with a GC coilover kit. for the rear you can pick up a $5 1/4in thick alumium plate and drill the holes in it and woalla, and they are charging $140 for it, what a joke. that rear setup is also using a secondary helper spring which takes up another 1/2inch of suspstion travel. this is good for a showcar only since the suspension will bottom out over every crack on the road. here are picks of thae stebani setup. http://www.home.inreach.com/santhony/scenc...pa_gb_sted.html here is the IMSA car setup: http://www.geocities.com/chad86tsi/Suspension.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redquest Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 There is no helper spring in the rear but your right about the rear plates I'm going to come up with something else, :'( ther is more than 1/4" travel on the front plates though Plus you can do caster adjustments Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldNBlack Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 From my thinking, The rear plates don't affect the suspension travel. Neither do the fronts. At least with stock style springs. The top spring plates still sit on the shoulder of the piston rods just like they did in the stock design which means the piston rod length or whatever is strictly determined by the spring. Now what they don't do is help you lower the car, in fact mine was lifted a tad when they went in, probably because the stock rubber sagged so much. In order to get that slammed look you would then lower the car using the shortened springs thus reducing the travel. What is really needed is the cut down strut housing bodies with some shorter cartridges. I don't understand why they designed such that you have to jack the car up 2 feet to get the tires off the ground. Camber wise they have done great for me. I used the +1.07 setting to set my camber from -2.5 back to -1.5, perfect for autocross/daily driver status. Car seemed to like it much better in the turns too but this feeling also may have come from the strut ties. They aren't much for fine tuning but it wouldn't take me too long to set them to -3.5 if I ever find I need it. Once again on the fronts, lowering already increases the camber to over -2 degrees, I actually have the plates set to take about .5 degree back out, I think? I still haven't had the thing to an alignment shop since installing them all (2years ago!) but last tire temp check showed an even heat distribution so i'm going by that. I think when I flip the plates around and slide them in I can get to -3.5 but I've never tried it. Both sets of plates could use some improving but Stedebani designed them with the stock spring diameter in mind which is why their adjustment got limited for those with the smaller diameter GC. The fronts especially are overkill while lacking a little in the adjustability department but they sure do look pretty in the engine bay. Steve A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 Jerry, the Cuscos change caster at the same time they adjust the camber. the slits are cut at a 45 degree angel. Steve, the 2degree camber you get in the front from lowering the car is not enough on a highspeed road coarse track. it distroys the ouside edges of the tires. I was using almost 4 degress in the front for the tires to wear out evenly. the rears dont need as much though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low White N Boosted Posted April 23, 2003 Report Share Posted April 23, 2003 yo dude im making my own for FREE il post some pics on susp. and brake forum when im done and have them installed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesR Posted April 25, 2003 Report Share Posted April 25, 2003 Here's a pic of my tri-stut bars. http://home.fuse.net/remo/enginebay1a.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted April 25, 2003 Report Share Posted April 25, 2003 me likes a lot. do you have any more closeups pics? and an approx price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESIrType? Posted April 26, 2003 Report Share Posted April 26, 2003 me likes a lot. do you have any more closeups pics? and an approx price? Wow, you like your close ups there Artinist. To answer your question for James (he can correct me if I am wrong), I believe those are a set of Stebani bars. I believe the run in the $450 range. They are a very nice setup. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted April 28, 2003 Report Share Posted April 28, 2003 are you sure? I thought stedebanis bars came with adjustable front camber plates which the brace bolts up to. redquest has the stedebani and it looks nothing like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESIrType? Posted April 29, 2003 Report Share Posted April 29, 2003 are you sure? I thought stedebanis bars came with adjustable front camber plates which the brace bolts up to. redquest has the stedebani and it looks nothing like this. I'm pretty sure you can get that setup w/o the camber plates. I believe they are cheaper that way. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted April 29, 2003 Report Share Posted April 29, 2003 I found pics of the stedebani, looks totally different at the joints. I dont think they are the same. James please fill us in with some info about those bars. http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/Stebanitop.jpg notice how little room there is for adjustment of camber. http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/stedebanibottom.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESIrType? Posted April 30, 2003 Report Share Posted April 30, 2003 Yes, I saw those too...I know I saw it somewhere where they were selling those bars that they had the option to buy the bars w/o the camber plates. Look at the mount on the fire wall, it looks the same to me. We'll have to wait for James to clear this up for us. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesR Posted May 2, 2003 Report Share Posted May 2, 2003 Sorry for the late response, but to answer everyone's question....... The tri-bar setup is a combination of a Greddy/Trust strut bar and Stebani's tri-bar setup. Steve came up with this setup before the camber plate/tri-bar setup he makes now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 4, 2003 Report Share Posted May 4, 2003 whats the price??? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted May 5, 2003 Report Share Posted May 5, 2003 so do we order the greddy and sent it to you or steve to get this mod done or would you sell them already moded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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