alp247 Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Ok so the car started to smell like it was running rich. Complaints from the wife about the car having some black smoke when she started it up a few times so i decided to check the spark plugs. Oh they were black as hell. Plus the mechanic installed some denso spark brand or something like that. I purchased the NGK's that were recommended here in the forums and gapped them to .040. I forgot what the manual says but i remember setting the gap in the middle of the specs. I started the car and now it seems like it's running worse than before. i was thinking maybe there was still some raw fuel that needs to be burned off but as i took it around the block it feels like it surging when i give it gas and it wants to die and not idle very well. Is my gap to big and causing this bad idle and rich condition and i should re-gap the spark plugs again. listed below is items i have check as well. new spark plug wiresswapped coil from my working carcheck injectors after a few minutes if they are dripping after the drive. all i can say is they were both very wet but i didn't really see if a droplets forming.(do i need injectors)checked timing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Stock gap is 0.044" or something like that. I found on my cars that was too big for stock ignition. 0.032 worked better. Dirty injectors can have a poor spray pattern making the mixture rich. But I would check the coolant temp sensor, FPR and injector clips first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alp247 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Oh i forgot to mention my car is a 1989 auto conquest if that makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alp247 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 (edited) i already replaced the injector clips and feel comfortable to say those good. For some reason i always remember .032 as my gap but since i haven't worked ony my car awhilesince i haven't has a garage i let some other mechanic do it. i figured i go with what the shop manual recommends to be on the safe side. I might try re-gapping at .032 and see what happens. if that doesn't work i'm going to try to shop around here on the forum for some injectors. Good point on the coolant temp sensor as i forgot about that could cause the car to run rich as well as it would think the car is cold all the time. i'll check that as well after i re-gap. I think i have to remove that to test it and that is usually in there pretty tight. Edited July 14, 2014 by alp247 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 mine are gapped at .028might need to get the injectors cleaned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 All of the above. Are these true SQ oem injectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alp247 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 I believe the injectors are OEM as i have inspected before and verifed the numbers on the side of them to make sure they were correct for the year of my car. I would send them out to get cleaned but i figure i might as well buy some new ones to make sure i can use them for testing if i ever have a problem like this again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 New OEM injectors are going to be very hard to find and/or expensive. If you can throw an ohm meter on them and looks for 3.5 ohms or close then get them cleaned and flow tested. Or grab a pair of the used boards if you can. But the other tests are important, CTS at 300 ohms when HOT, FPR not leaking - just pull the little curved hose and look for gas running out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Clean your stock injectors they are the best spray pattern u can have for stock set up!!!! Mitsu didn't develop these because they wanted too...they had too to get it to idle right....been checking on replacements the last few months e bay 200 bucks or GB injectors Will rebuield yours on rock auto.....32 bucks each plus shipping... post back on findings on GB rebuield injectors so everyone will know.....if u go that route.........checked about new secondary...(. mitsu Ontario ca.)...580 bucks no primarys N/LA........3 months ago........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alp247 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 mark, good info. i'm going to go that route first and send them out to have them cleaned. I'll check with rock auto as you mentioned. damn 580! if i'm desperate and have no other options then i'll go that route Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 I can't and don't believe 32 will get you a rebuilt injector, just cleaned and tested (?). Python is the only source I have ever seen who actually tears them apart and rebuilds including a new plastic part that does not crack and split. Don't know who deals them anymore but I run a secondary and it works. http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r760/yedde/python_zps5c03ed0c.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alp247 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 (edited) edde, yeah i think that price was just for cleaning. I'll try to check out python is there is anymore. what is the P/N for the injectors Edited July 14, 2014 by alp247 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 On a wild hair I tried calling them and got a fast busy. Further investigation says they're GONE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) edde ..... There MIA . . ...... OK get your pens out...............I found my starion black book.. ........rebuield stockers .( bostech injectors ) TB 109 =green MD 614102 TB110 =black MD 614036 ( www. shop injectors. com/Mitsubishi ) 2 year warr. 95.00 +20.00 buck core .charge............only 87 no 86 injectors........... :ph34r: post back so everyone will know......(Never tried them).......Im running out of things to throw at u alp247.... :D go to web site......oooooooo PH # 1-877-558-0996 ask for marty....... .alp 247 looks like u get to be the test pilot on this one ......good luck....... Edited July 15, 2014 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 edde ..... There MIA . . ...... OK get your pens out...............I found my starion black book.. ........rebuield stockers .( bostech injectors ) TB 109 =green MD 614102 TB110 =black MD 614036 ( www. shop injectors. com/Mitsubishi ) 2 year warr. 95.00 +20.00 buck core .charge............only 87 no 86 injectors........... :ph34r: post back so everyone will know......(Never tried them).......Im running out of things to throw at u alp247.... :D go to web site......oooooooo PH # 1-877-558-0996 ask for marty....... .alp 247 looks like u get to be the test pilot on this one ......good luck....... Awesome find! For many years folks here have sworn that no one actually rebuilds these injectors. Hopefully someone can report a positive result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alp247 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 LOL thanks for the Mark and everyone. I'm taking this all to consideration so i still haven'tre-gapped my plugs so i have to do that first then go from there but i'm going to call them and see what they can do for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alp247 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 just wondering if anyone has the OEM p/n for the injectors on hand just so i can cross reference the injectors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) OEM numbers are in the post OEM MD 614102 green secondary = TB 109 black primary OEM MD 614036 = TB 110 hey edde jethro tull L IVING IN THE PAST......thank for cookies !!!! hope the test pilot dosent get shot down in flames Edited July 15, 2014 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alp247 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 UPDATE:Ok after some further investigation and testing other parts i found the issue. The issue i was running so rich was because the rubber diaphram near the fuel regulator was ripped. I though maybe i had a leaking injector or gapped my sparkplugs too big. When i opened up the housing to the diaphram i did notice that there was a flat spot on the edge of it nut it looked normal. i figured i should take it out. After taking it out i saw one little tear in it and another small hole in it. I didn't have a new one but removed the one i used to rebuild my other motor. I cleaned up and regapped my plugs to .032 and fired it up and it was smooth. Ran it at idle to see if it started to run ruich again and it seemed fine. Took it for a test drive and got on it and it was smooth as slik. Wife drove it this moring a little scared it might die on her and she texted me back saying the car was running super smooth. Ah yeah feel like a hero lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 You mean inside the fuel feed ? Good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 yep .. I just rebuild my 86 TB and mine was all smashed up....good job..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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