What's normal oil pressure(s)?

[pcristquester]

After engine is warm, where should oil pressure gauge be both at idle and reving (above 2500 RPM)?

[mechengrkj]

After engine is warm, where should oil pressure gauge be both at idle and reving (above 2500 RPM)?

 

Look it up!

http://www.starquest...ervice_nav.html

Also...

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=142540entry1421984

Edited May 7, 2014 by mechengrkj

[importwarrior]

the gauge on the dash is about the most inconsistent gauge BETWEEN our cars.

you can use it as a reference and it will work fine.

just that my cars gauge at 195 degrees will read different compared to your car at 195

on your stock gauge at that same temp.

what you need to do is get a proper gauge. Prosport, autometer, AEM. something like that.

 

 

[Starfighterpilot]

Here is What my Old Broad reads:

 

Using 10W-40 engine oil in winter with engine warmed up to just below the temp guage middle white line:

 

Idle at 900 - 950 RPM's about 1/8th in below oil pressure guage middle line.

 

At 2300 RPM about 3/8 to 1/4 in below the high white line.

 

Using 20W-50 engine oil in summer with engine warmed up to just below the temp guage middle white line:

 

Idle at 900 - 950 RPM's about 1/16th in below oil pressure guage middle line.

 

At 2300 RPM about 1/8 in. below the high white line.

 

If you have less than these oil pressure it doesn't necessarily mean the the bearing clearances are excessive. Like importwarrior stated above, it could be the oil pressure guage (or pressure sender) inaccuracy.

 

Or it could be that the oil pump pressure relief valve, which is inside of the oil pump body casting, has a weak spring allowing too much oil to be dumped, causing lower oil pressures. Remember that spring is at least 25 years old and has lost a considerable amount of it's tension.

 

I know that MITSU (cuz I've bought 3 sets over time) came out with a upgraded oil pump relief valve spring and plunger which should bring oil pressure back up. But at the moment I can't find the MITSU part numbers for 'em. Maybe someone else can provide them.

 

The Old Broad had her's changed out about 25K miles ago for the third time. Each time oil pressure came right back up to where it is now. I've also changed the oil pressure guage sending unit twice over her 26 year life and a hell of a lot of engine operating hours.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[pcristquester]

Well I just ordered a new oil pump from DAD, even though I haven't pulled the supposed new one TEP shows on my invoice yet. When she's back together I'll confirm my pressure gauge and sender are good or not. Will never use TEP for anything anymore. Wish I had become a member before buying so much. Now I question all I have from them still on my car.

[pcristquester]

Finally put a mechanical gauge on it, and have confirmed good oil pressure. My worries are relieved for now, but think i'll be putting a more accurate gauge somewhere in the cabin, probably under the radio. Went at this bass-ackwards, lesson learned. Always confirm issues with the correct tools first, don't just change parts you THINK might be bad. Thanks to DAD, KEN, IMPORT and UCW for your guys help on this!

[Greg23]

Also check your sending unit. It can get gunked up and make the dash gauge even more inaccurate than it should be.

[importwarrior]

yes clean the contacts.

 

Thanks for the update.

Edited August 15, 2014 by importwarrior

[pcristquester]

Yeah, cleaned the contacts and connector clip. Even bought a new OEM sender, but may just keep it in the box for now