Starheel Posted February 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) I finished with the msd coil, gapped plugs, replaced fusible links, and cut an opening in the air can. It seems to be running about the same though. Actually idled smoother when I forgot to plug in the mass air sensor. But I plugged it in and it still sort of like misses or something during high boost at about 3500RPM, as I explained before. So I started looking at the ecu to make sure it was correct. The original was switched out by my mechanic because he said the car was cutting out when the wheels where turned sharply. But from what I can tell is that there seems to be a wire not connected to anything and that the ecu connected currently, is the correct year but the one that was in the car seems to be an older year. Also the older one has correct mounting points for the ecu and the cover, while the correct year does not. <a href="http://s982.photobuc...D0330.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i982.photobuc...6EB15D0330.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 5573D19B-1535-4D61-ACFD-F16EB15D0330.jpg"/></a> Edited February 10, 2014 by Starheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/5573D19B-1535-4D61-ACFD-F16EB15D0330.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/88DC29A5-6284-401D-875F-30ED13E70D1B.jpg http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/DAB13E4F-B1FE-484A-8295-D7DC1091E417.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 bump for answers. Also, the part number of the ECU currently connected (shown above) is MD120197. i cant find what the black wire with red or orange stripes and a ring connector should go to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Below is the pic of the opening above the fuel pump. http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/11F29E63-4856-4E55-964E-B7E83BFA37EF.jpgAll pics I have seen in here don't show a overhang by the floor of the trunk like mine does. Do most people cut this to make more room for access? I think there is room for me to get to the conical filter but not get to the in tank filter. Also when taking the shroud off the gauge cluster, do the switches just disconnect from the back or do I have to unscrew them? Also any help with the previous post questions would help. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesey Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 You can get the in tank filter out from there just remove those hoses from the tank and fuel pump. And loosen them screws up. Pulls right out of the tank. I would put some wd40 or pb blast on there to loosen up the rust I don't know why they used Phillips screws for this stuff. You don't want to strip them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOTTY Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 you need the 0197 ECU in there man , 88/9 , anything else is the WRONG ONE and a step in the wrong direction , they are also very reliable ecu's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thanks cheesey. And i have the0197 in there, my problem is the random black with orange stripes wire hanging out not connected to anything and that the interior trim cover will no longer go on because the mounting holes no longer line up. Also if i can get the can get the gauge shroud off i will go ahead and install the boost gauge. I just dont know if the switches can be dissconnected or if i have to unscreww them from the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 So I have read on another thread that I should switch the boards inside the ECU's that way the mounting holes line up. I am still confused why my 88' doesn't have the 88' MD120197 already in it? Also does anyone know what page of the manual might have where that loose wire needs to go? I have looked through the manual and cant find anywhere that might tell me what it should be connected to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Ok today I pulled the fuel tank filter and conical filter. The conical was dirty, but the tank didn't look bad at all. http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/2AE98DE3-396D-49C0-A37B-5AB2EB4433B7.jpgI cleaned the filters and re installed them. Now I want to take out the cruise control so I can run the boost gauge tubing through the hole where the cruise throttle cable goes. can I go ahead and not reinstall the speed controller that is near the fuel pump access in the rear hatch? Also which cable on the gas pedal is the cruise cable? I think it's the one that comes in and attaches to the bracket and gold attachment. http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/DD6AB623-3FC5-4A7C-B078-5C038EB3044D.jpgAlso the back of the head light buttons, do I need to unscrew the bracket to get the gauge shroud completely off? I don't see a connector and I want the shroud off the take the gauges out.http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/4D6AFF13-F808-4469-B752-C2E333B4EBE3.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 (edited) Ahh I also switched the ecu board from the 0197 to the stock housing. That way I can get the kick board back in and everything will line up. I still don't know where the black wire goes. I'm guessing it is some kind of ground and I'm going to ground it to the body with one of the ecu mounting screws.http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/1B348F6C-D721-48C7-B13A-2706054CF09B.jpg Edited February 24, 2014 by Starheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 (edited) Another question how do i release the fuel pressure so i can take out the injectors and get them cleaned. edit: found on another thread that Caliber said that the fuel pressure does not need to be released. Just unplug the injector harnesses and take the top part off that holds the injectors down. Edited February 24, 2014 by Starheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Another question how do i release the fuel pressure so i can take out the injectors and get them cleaned. edit: found on another thread that Caliber said that the fuel pressure does not need to be released. Just unplug the injector harnesses and take the top part off that holds the injectors down. Yup! Bill is correct. Just make sure that you have some rags around to absorb the gas run off. And DEFINITELY, DON'T smoke while you're doing this. For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/E27A1BE1-8310-43AE-BF07-0149A0E11068.jpgHow do you guys get the screw out that hold the wires to the back of the gauges? I can't get a short Phillips head screwdriver in there or a Phillips screw bit at the end of the socket in there. The windshield is in the way. The pic above is looking through the windshield. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 So no one knows where the random wire at the ecu I show above goes? Also I ordered the same mech boost gauge that TEP recommends, the autometer 2601. I finally got the cluster out and as you can see the mounting studs do not line up with the existing holes. I was under the assumption that the only extra hole needed was for the boost line.http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/BB927FEC-B625-4196-A40E-531F2446728F.jpghttp://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/mjomorgan/A6B6CAC7-B4F8-44C1-A731-5B66D9CBCAE9.jpgThat is with the gauge centered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starheel Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Now I see the TEP write up doesnt show the mounting screws coming through the back of the cluster. The stews are too long for the gauge to fit, so should I trim them? Then only the gauge face and the boost connection will be holding it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianpaul98 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) Hello Joseph, I just saw your thread and you are definitely working your way through everything a newbie to the Quest has to deal with. There are some things in this thread that bother me like the boost blowing out the spark plug??? It's great that members are trying to help but that just makes no sense and now you have mis information in your mental data base. There are other things that will make the plugs not fire or foul out but 12 psi of boost is not one of them. If you have air, fuel and spark you'll have fire and considering everything else is working properly the boost will only amplify the explosion. More air, more fuel, more boost then spark and more bang. My suggestion to you is get the car running properly as far as the fuel system and wiring goes then start messing with the boost. One thing I will say is that the stock MAF is junk. I did everything to my 89 Starion and it never idled properly. It always had an up and down idle, stalled a lot and just ran erratically most of the time. When I swapped out the stock MAF for a 1G it was like a night and day difference. Leaky injectors can foul plugs and a bad coil or messed up wiring can cause the spark to cut out or be intermittent. I also never recommend gutting a cat because it causes turbulence inside that big open chamber. You have a straight pipe going into a big open area then back into a small pipe. If your cat is clogged and you can't afford a new one then gut it but its not a good performance move. The pre cat also has a function which is keeping the 1 wire O2 sensor warmed up. I saw this first hand with a narrow band as soon as I put a 2.5" down pipe on my first Quest. The car warmed up and the gauge was sweeping right in the yellow stoichiometric (14.1:1) range. As I drove down the road I saw the gauge kept going back into the rich (green 11 ~ 12 ) range where it was at when the car was warming up. A mile or so down the road and it was back in the yellow again. To fix the problem I installed a 3 wire heated O2 sensor and never had a problem with it again. This can also be a contributing reason for your car to be getting bad gas mileage. If I were you I would get a log book and write down everything you are doing to your car and date it. This way 3 months from now you know when you changed the fuel filters, spark plugs, coil etc... and document what everything looked like. #1 plug fouled out, secondary injector was leaking etc.. If I were you I would NOT run anything higher than stock boost until you get that vacuum advance module checked out. If your mechanic guy went down to the local parts store and bought it I guarantee its not for a turbo car. You would be better off getting a used one off a known turbo distributor. I probably have three of them in the shop. The fact that your car is an automatic presents another issue. It will not have much low end spin the tires power off the line. I had an 88 quest that I drove briefly until an air headed ex gf nearly burned the thing to the ground. That was a very nice driving car and if i were you I'd drill another hole and leave the cruise control in there. You told me that you want to swap out the cam. I did that on the auto car with a 274 cam and it literally killed the power from idle to about 2800 rpm. It was so bad the car didn't have enough power to leave a stop light. The autometer gauge you are trying to put in the dash will need the threaded posts cut down. You will use the black rubber band to hold it in place and be sure that the top edge of the gauge rim IS NOT touching the outer clear plastic gauge cover. If it is over time it will crack the plastic. I replied to your PM answering the other questions you had and I'll be glad to help with your build if I can. Edited March 6, 2014 by brianpaul98 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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