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Oil Pressure (video test)


misterdrifter
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Can you guys tell me if I'm okay?

 

I was trying to get the gauge hooked up to the stock sender and it was reading 25psi... not sure what the appropriate pressure for a cold engine is..

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xB5zsTq_ruA&feature=youtu.be

 

 

 

 

Also, stay tuned for huge gigantic update :D :D

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from my experiences with comparing a stock to a mechanical gauge. half on the stock is about 25-30psi mech. 1/4 is roughly 10psi mech. and 3/4 is roughly 60psi mech. i personally think your oil pressure is way too low for a cold start. it should all but peg the stock gauge till it warms up and than sit over half at warm idle on a good tight motor. just my .02cents.
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from my experiences with comparing a stock to a mechanical gauge. half on the stock is about 25-30psi mech. 1/4 is roughly 10psi mech. and 3/4 is roughly 60psi mech. i personally think your oil pressure is way too low for a cold start. it should all but peg the stock gauge till it warms up and than sit over half at warm idle on a good tight motor. just my .02cents.

 

Really?? Crap...

 

 

I'm running 10w30 Mobile1. The cylinder head is brand new, and the block has about 80k miles on it. Any possibility my stock gauge is crapped out??

 

When it warms up idling it goes to about 1/4 or so... and if I rev the motor to like 2k rpms it will climb just up a bit past 1/2...

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i have a new sending unit on my car so your may be different,,,,, just put a mechanical gauge on it to verify. FSM says 11.7psig at warm idle is ok. but i have never seen it that low and not have issues.
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In my experience of you still have balance shafts it'll sit at aboun half at cold start and 1/4 or so warm at idle.

 

With balance shafts removed they read much higher. Cold 3/4 or more. Idle at about 1/2

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i have a new sending unit on my car so your may be different,,,,, just put a mechanical gauge on it to verify. FSM says 11.7psig at warm idle is ok. but i have never seen it that low and not have issues.

 

Interesting...

 

 

I will pull my sender and clean it. And see if it changes. Mechanical gauges work off vacuum right?

Thanks for the tips :)

 

 

In my experience of you still have balance shafts it'll sit at aboun half at cold start and 1/4 or so warm at idle.

 

With balance shafts removed they read much higher. Cold 3/4 or more. Idle at about 1/2

 

I've removed my balance shafts... SO ... that's not so comforting.. :-S

Edited by misterdrifter
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Mechanical gauges work by pressurized liquid oil going inside and moving the mechanism.

 

And yea...yours sounds ok. Not as good as it once was though. But double check it...the stock oil pressure gauges are about as true as a politician.

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Mechanical gauges work by pressurized liquid oil going inside and moving the mechanism.

 

And yea...yours sounds ok. Not as good as it once was though. But double check it...the stock oil pressure gauges are about as true as a politician.

 

Yeah.. I tried cleaning the stock sender... goes almost to 3/4 cold but no higher. I think I may try installing the sender that came with the aftermarket electric gauge just to see what it reads. If i get a low reading I'll go buy a mechanical gauge.

 

 

hook up the mechanical and see wht you get. it is much more accurate than stock.

 

I have a brand new aftermarket electrical gauge with aftermarket sender. I'm going to try that first to just get a reading and see what it says. If it's wonky or low, I'll go purchase a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

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any oil pressure problems or questions the first thing you need to do is install a mechanical gauge in the stock oil sender port of the block port behind the timeing cover,,, and do a fresh oil change

an engine runing in open loop will put enought gas in the oil with in a fw 100 miles to cause low oil pressure readings

personaly in warm weather i'd recomend 20-40 , no 10 weight any thing

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any oil pressure problems or questions the first thing you need to do is install a mechanical gauge in the stock oil sender port of the block port behind the timeing cover,,, and do a fresh oil change

an engine runing in open loop will put enought gas in the oil with in a fw 100 miles to cause low oil pressure readings

personaly in warm weather i'd recomend 20-40 , no 10 weight any thing

 

Ok I was considering this anyways....

 

 

What do you mean exactly by Engine running in an open loop?

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so one hasn't done their home work , FSM fuel chaptor read the first section ( how things work )

 

I could tell you but theres a lot of info in that reading you need to know and remember

if you do not know how the ecu works and it's relationship to the other fuel control sub systems you'll never get a handle on how this car works

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Are you referring to the closed loop scenario that happens when the O2 sensor is open and the engine defaults to a rich setting?

 

I checked my plugs and they seem to be firing great. rim of plug is black with the center nice clean and white. I did have quite a bit of gas in my oil upon first start up after getting the motor back into the car, but that was because of me being careless and having 2 plug wires backwards so 2 cylinders weren't firing. I could smell the gas in the oil...

 

Since then I've done 3 oil changes only running the engine for able 20 minutes or so at a time, no hood so possible a few times it did not even warm up (the gauge wasn't at the middle yet).

 

I'm familiar with the way the ECU works to an extent, but I'm not familiar with some of the terms that are thrown around on the Forums....... That's why I asked.

 

 

 

edit: I assume you're referring to the big repair manual for the car too when you say FSM chapter. Don't have the manual actually. When I was putting the motor back together and into the car I borrowed a friend's Haynes manual. He lives here in Fresno.

Edited by misterdrifter
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do a scearch for starquestclub garage, then down load the factory 88/89 service manual from there

Haynes are no help at all

 

Ok thanks

 

 

mine's an 87 with 87 ecu, fyi. 88/89 still apply?

Edited by misterdrifter
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