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Rough Idle When Warm


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Just got the car registered today so I'm pretty stoked to start driving it. Anyways I noticed that when it gets warm and I push in the clutch, the rpm drops to like 500 and almost dies constantly. I have to keep on the throttle while braking (not fun). Any ideas what's causing this? Bad TPS? Also, the car is running really rich. Think I need a new MAS?

 

Thnx,

KJ

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Mine runs extremely rich also. It also has a constant miss at idle. Under boost it runs smooth and strong. I just order some new injector clips from the forum. I'll let you know how that works out.
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Mine runs extremely rich also. It also has a constant miss at idle. Under boost it runs smooth and strong. I just order some new injector clips from the forum. I'll let you know how that works out.

 

Great. I've just spent a bunch trying to get it running to begin with so if I can just replace the clips for now that would be very helpful.

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I haven't checked any codes. I haven't bought a code reader yet.

What's a CTS? I'm still pretty new at this...

 

Coolant Tempeture Sensor...Let me find you a link hang on.

 

http://www.starquest...showtopic=28043

 

Bam !!!

 

Just for kicks and giggles do a tps/ics reset also.

Edited by Ironside
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Great. I've just spent a bunch trying to get it running to begin with so if I can just replace the clips for now that would be very helpful.

Yeah, I think I paid $16 for them so that'd be an easy, inexpensive fix but of course you know how that goes ;). I hope you get it on the road. I just bought mine last year. I was 17 when my 88 came out and I have wanted one ever since. It is exactly as much fun as I thought it'd be. You wont be disappointed. I mean, you have to be realistic. it is a 4 banger but it is LOADS of fun and very surprising for what it is.
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Coolant Tempeture Sensor...Let me find you a link hang on.

 

http://www.starquest...showtopic=28043

 

Bam !!!

 

Just for kicks and giggles do a tps/ics reset also.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll get on that in the next few days.

 

Yeah, I think I paid $16 for them so that'd be an easy, inexpensive fix but of course you know how that goes ;). I hope you get it on the road. I just bought mine last year. I was 17 when my 88 came out and I have wanted one ever since. It is exactly as much fun as I thought it'd be. You wont be disappointed. I mean, you have to be realistic. it is a 4 banger but it is LOADS of fun and very surprising for what it is.

 

I just got it licensed today after 2 months in the garage working on it for a few hours every night. Feels so good!

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Anyone know anything or had any experience with these injectors?

they don't have a wide spray pattern, you'll never get your car to run right. It's very easy to figure out if your Coolant temp sensor is bad....unplug it...the computer will go into loop mode and act like everything is perfect. Bad injector clips will make your car run bad consistently, not when the car gets hot.

Pretty much the same thing happened to two of my cars, what year is your car?

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they don't have a wide spray pattern, you'll never get your car to run right. It's very easy to figure out if your Coolant temp sensor is bad....unplug it...the computer will go into loop mode and act like everything is perfect. Bad injector clips will make your car run bad consistently, not when the car gets hot.

Pretty much the same thing happened to two of my cars, what year is your car?

 

It's an 88. It runs great when its cold and doesn't really start having any problems until the temp gauge goes above cold.

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unplug the cts, its the vertical two prong plug on the intake manifold next to the coolant neck. Unplug your battery, disconnect the cts, then reconnect your battery. The response should be immediate if it's the CTS. If while your sitting at a stop revving your engine to keep it going and it seems to run better above 3000 rpms it's your primary injector failing.
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unplug the cts, its the vertical two prong plug on the intake manifold next to the coolant neck. Unplug your battery, disconnect the cts, then reconnect your battery. The response should be immediate if it's the CTS. If while your sitting at a stop revving your engine to keep it going and it seems to run better above 3000 rpms it's your primary injector failing.

 

I'll try it first thing tomorrow. Thnx!

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unplug the cts, its the vertical two prong plug on the intake manifold next to the coolant neck. Unplug your battery, disconnect the cts, then reconnect your battery. The response should be immediate if it's the CTS. If while your sitting at a stop revving your engine to keep it going and it seems to run better above 3000 rpms it's your primary injector failing.

 

Unhooked it this morning and on my way to school it still just about died at every stop light. The weird thing is that it runs fine if I'm giving it any throttle at all but it only happens at idle. I'll try resetting the TPS/ICS probably tomorrow.

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ANY running problems where the car won't idle, a TPS/ISC reset is the first step. Especially if the car has been worked on or has an unkown history. The reset is not super hard, but you have to do it right or you can make it worse.

 

You can check the CTS easy enough with a voltmeter by following the service manual. Don't just replace it, and if you do replace it verify the new one to make sure it reads correctly also. If you really want to get fancy, you can check the CTS resistance at the ECU connector to make sure that the connections and wiring arn't a problem.

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ANY running problems where the car won't idle, a TPS/ISC reset is the first step. Especially if the car has been worked on or has an unkown history. The reset is not super hard, but you have to do it right or you can make it worse.

 

You can check the CTS easy enough with a voltmeter by following the service manual. Don't just replace it, and if you do replace it verify the new one to make sure it reads correctly also. If you really want to get fancy, you can check the CTS resistance at the ECU connector to make sure that the connections and wiring arn't a problem.

 

Any guidance on resetting the TPS? The FSM says to use an ECI Checker but I sure don't have one of those! Is there a way to simply test with a multimeter?

 

P.S. MikeMeyerhoff, I love your tagline! "

This vehicle runs on 100% Recycled Dinosaurs"

Edited by kylejones
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I tried resetting the TPS today and I think it's shot. The voltage across terminals 2 and 3 read 5v no matter how much I rotate the sensor. What's the best thing I can do to fix/ replace it? Any fairly cheap options?

Edited by kylejones
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you might have had the wrong two terminals. There is 5v feed, a ground, and a signal wire that changes from 0 to 5v.

 

I tried all combinations of the three wires I got 5v for terminals 2&3 and for 1&3 and 0.018v for 1&2. And none of them really changed when I rotated the TPS.

Edited by kylejones
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did you unplug your ISC??? you might be going through some stuff you don't need to....

 

Yup! I went through the whole thing one time and realized that I didn't unplug it so I went through it a second time and got the same results. Also, FSM says that the resistance of the TPS should be 3.5-6.5 kohms between terminals 1 and 3. Mine was over 12 kohms.

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