TopDawg_43 Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 Yeah I did NO damage to the guard rail or the pole that supported it. If the knocking were a valve then it would be coming from the head area this sounds like it's coming fromt he lower casing that's why I'm worried. At this point though, I don't know that I can really afford to get it fixed if I DID buy it back. The thing I find odd though is that they are going to pay out $5200 when they adjuster said between $3500 and $4000 to repair. Something reeks like last weeks fish but I don't knwo how to cal them out on it... $4K is over 75% of $5.2k. And they know whom ever does the work will come back to them for more. That's why they are just totaling it out as appose to fixing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 Yep, the rule of thumb is that if the repair cost is 75-80% the value of the vehicle, they'll total it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 Well I guess the engine is fine. I ran it a bit revved it up and the ticking/knocking went away. Maybe I should have someone come take a look at the frame see if it's worth fixing or if I should dump it and go for a new bike. I'll be going to the dealership as well seeing what they have in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted September 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 Ok here are the pics of it as it sits currently: http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc165/Socially_Unacceptable/Sportster%20Accident%20Aftermath/IMG_2986.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc165/Socially_Unacceptable/Sportster%20Accident%20Aftermath/IMG_2987.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc165/Socially_Unacceptable/Sportster%20Accident%20Aftermath/IMG_2993.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc165/Socially_Unacceptable/Sportster%20Accident%20Aftermath/IMG_2992.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc165/Socially_Unacceptable/Sportster%20Accident%20Aftermath/IMG_2991.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc165/Socially_Unacceptable/Sportster%20Accident%20Aftermath/IMG_2990.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc165/Socially_Unacceptable/Sportster%20Accident%20Aftermath/IMG_2989.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc165/Socially_Unacceptable/Sportster%20Accident%20Aftermath/IMG_2988.jpg Now I'm seriously kicking around the idea of buyback. The damage isn't that bad and the engine sounds better now that I reved it a little. My worry though is what the title is going to look like afterwards. Do I need to file for a salvage title? Do I need to get it inspected afterwards? What needs to be done, etc. As for parts, the stuff it needs isn't that bad really. The sprocket cover and brake setup might run a bit and a fender I can find for a decent price. Paint might not match but that can be fixed later. The tank has a small dent and I have a sportbob tank I was planning on installing anyways. The shifter and pegs aren't too hard to get. But again my big concern is what's unseen and what the title situation will be afterward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 Yeah, that doesn't look very bad to me at all. Of course, I know more about sportbikes, but personally, I wouldn't hesitate to do a buyback, especially since you think the motor is fine. Before running it anymore tho, you really need to replace all the fluids. Stuff probably mixed. When you had it running did you try and ride it? If so did it feel like it was still tracking straight, or did it feel a little off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted September 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 I can't ride it. The brake pedal was ripped from the sprocket cover so the rear brakes are inop. The shifter has been snapped off as well so I can't put it in gear. The handlebars feel a little loose up and down. Otherwise I don't think there would be much of a problem with then bike. I have a spare tank which I had planned on putting on it anyways and the cover I wanted to replace with flat black ones as well. I don't particularly want to put anything into parts yet until I know something more definite but I am definitely torn on the insurance company's offer. I think the 1400 buy back Is a bit high since they are totaling it out. If it costs more that 75% of the value to fix it, logic would dictate that it is only worth 25% of it's value correct? And that number would be more like $1000 not the $1400 they have given so far... Maybe my thinking is off in this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 (edited) That would make sense if insurance comapnies weren't out to keep as much cash in their pockets as they can... It's an insurance claim, not getting change back from a bank. The reason the ins. companies use the 75% thing is so they have more options to total vehicles sooner, and more wiggle room on what they actually give you as settlement. Plus, they don't have to pay full value on any car. With a buyback situation, they usually try to hide 5-10% of the value in the buyback (basically saving themselves 5-10% of what they would normally have to pay back in a non-buyback situation). It's similar to how a car dealership can give you a higher dollar amount for a trade in, and fudge the money in the paperwork where they make a little less, but still make a nice profit, and the buyer feels better because he gets more on trade. At the end of the day, the ins. wants to pay out as little of the value as they can. As the vehicle owner, you want as close to 100% back as possible, but as a company trying to make money, they want to pay the lowest percentege they can settle on. In the end, if you get 75% of the value back, you're doing pretty good. Really, if I were you, before deciding any further... I'd change fluids, tighten up the bars, use pliers or whatever to get the bike in at least 1st or 2nd, and go for a local, slow speed cruise to see if it tracks straight. You don't need back brakes to ride a little bit. In fact, most bikers I know only use the back brake 20% of the time anyway. As long as you got front brakes you can ride it enough to see how it tracks. If it feels good, look into the buyback, if it feels off, then look at a full settlement. Either way, don't take their first offer, try and get a little more out of them if you can. Edited September 26, 2012 by Burton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 I agree with Burton. Have someone help you get the thing somewhat driveable to test if it's worth buying it back. Get a BFH and bang that shifter back in place, tighten the handle bars and give it a low speed cruise. I the engine is OK, I'd buy it back also. It doesn't look bad at all. The bent exhaust is no biggie, the tank you say you already have a replacement so you're ahead already. But definnately change the fluids. When I used to purchase roll over cars, we would drain it first and fill it with clean fluids, pull out the spark plugs and crank it over with no plugs to let the oil out of the piston chambers. Then put plugs back and start it. They would smoke like a mofo for the first few minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted September 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 That's the other thing I didn't cover. The fluids. There are no fluids to change other than the oil. It cut off nearly as soon as I went down so there is little to no risk of fuel in the oil. I might try to take it for a short ride here tomorrow. I have been told by the ins company that if I do do the buy back they won't insure the bike. I won't be keeping it myself I guess I will have to sell it afterward. I will have to write the adjuster and see if I can get a bit more out of the bike. I don't know how much they will squirm on it though but the adjuster did call today wanting to know my decision. I have looked at a few bikes now and think I have found a couple I like so far. Though I am not sure ow much I trust the salesman I talked to. I might stop at the other dealership tomorrow after I get back from work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 look at the connection where the forks/handlebar meet body right at the the joint where you steer.. is the paint there cracked? take a closup if you would. also straighten out the wheel and stand her up, have someone hold her up and take a pic, does the slant of the forks look right? any cracking of paint, or the rake of the forks being off or the wheel doesn't look straight when looking down at it from the rider's seat, then the frame is tweaked. And any new frame is hell in a handbag to get DMV to accept, all kinds of paperwork and fees that I doubt you want to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 If you do a buyback, you will have a salvage/rebuild title. I'm not sure about VA, but in NC, you don't have to get it inspected. And just like a car, if and when you go to sell it, it will become a issue. It's usually pretty hard to get full coverage insurance on anything with a salvage/rebuild title. Hey, nice Vespa! I never considered you as a pink kinda guy. But now I know...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Yeah, any buyback will result in a salvage title. Some states require inspection to get it changed to a "rebuilt" title which is actually considered a little better tha salvage. Most states, but not all, will let you drive and insure salvage vehicles, but you will probably never be able to get full coverage- just liability. In that case, if you wreck it again you are either stuck with fixing it again out of pocket, or parting it out to get your investment back. Here in TX, I can drive drive a salvage vehicle with liability, but the state automatically issues a rebuilt title after the vehicle has been registered for at least 2 years after being a salvage vehicle. Since TX has yearly saftey inspections (and smog in some counties), they figure if your vehicle passes the saftey inspections and is reliable enough to be on the road for a couple years, then the vehicle deserves a rebuilt title rather than salvage. You'll want to check and see what your state's rules are first, but even if you do have to get it inspected after it's fixed, with the little bit of damage you have it won't take much at all to get it to pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 That's been something of an issue for me as well. I haven't been able to find information on VA. Other than a VERY vague bit from the DMV site. The insurance company actually told me that because it's VA and the bike is older than 5 years that no salvage title would be necessary that the title would remain just a regular title. But I don't see how that makes ANY sense. Unless they are catering to the Ins. companies in VA... I'm not sure anyone out there have some experience there and able to pipe up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted September 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 Ok I took a look and took some pictures. Haven't had time or energy to actually see if she tracks straight but there are no cracks in the paint at the gooseneck. Nothing looks tweaked or damaged. I still have to stand her upright and see but I'm thinking probably nothing there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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