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NEED help troubleshooting . please! wont start after new timing chain and vavle job


19red88quest
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ok so i recently put a new timing chain, gears and all guides ect. had the head freshened up with new vavle job put the motor all back together with new gaskets and it doesnt start. the timing is correct, i have spark, fuel and air. the car will run if your spraying starting fluid into the throttle body with the injectors unplugged. whenever i try to start the car with the injectors plugged in it doesnt fire. i am lost now, i currently have all the nobs on my translator set at zero. if anybody has any ideas or thoughts please chime in i need as much help as possible. thanks
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Your ECU isn't getting the tach signal. The ignition is separate and as long as the timing is close they will run without an ECU even plugged in. The ECU is just the fuel supply. Without a tach signal, the ECU won't fire the injectors. Check the ECI fuse link.
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the intercooler piping is all hooked up. the tac moves when cranking, unfortunetly i lost my stock maft! i pulled the injector housing and cranked it while my dad watched the injectors, the primary sprays perfect. with that said should i still look for the ecu not getting a tac signal?
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If the rocker assembly was removed from the head then the lifters moved you will have to collapse them. They will not collapse on their own the oil pressure keeps them extended too much and a valve can't seat that's what I asked what lifters you had and if you checked compression AFTER, just before you tried to start it again. I might not have any compression or its too low to run. Check it again. If you have low or none, do this...

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/lash%20cleaning.pdf

Edited by Indiana
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If its 110 now then its fine. You should check the ignition timing while you're trying to start it up and rotate the distributor until you see TDC that will let it start. If its way off like 10ATDC its going to be difficult to start. After it starts up the idle motor may move and after about 15 seconds it will move again then you can at least try and get it to 10btdc but you'll still have to wait until its fully warmed up to set it.
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ok i went down to my shop today to check out the lifters. im brand new to overhead cam motors so i had a difficult time finding the lifters as my dad did too. do i have to pull the rocker assembly off ? also how would i go about collapsing the lifters? thanks
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i have the translator settings at zero right now so it runs at the stock afr of 10.0. i tried tuning with the translator when the car was running and the numbers were always different like it has a bad mas sensor or translator and at this point im focusing on getting the car to run first. i bought maf translator extensions, could i possibly have them hooked up wrong causing it not to run?
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i have the translator settings at zero right now so it runs at the stock afr of 10.0. i tried tuning with the translator when the car was running and the numbers were always different like it has a bad mas sensor or translator and at this point im focusing on getting the car to run first. i bought maf translator extensions, could i possibly have them hooked up wrong causing it not to run?

What are you using for a MAS or MAF?

If you are using a 1G DSM turbo MAS then...

(I still don't understand the logic behind using a translator on a 1G DSM MAS)

...If someone colud explain this to me...

but,

if you are using a GM MAF then it would be similar to not having a MAS connector attached.

and in most cases you could crank all day and not turn over (start)

Either way, (IMHO) instead of bleeding lifters why don't you try adjusting Translator idle settings?

 

Or like you mention it may need attention anyway.

Edited by Metric-man
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im running a gm mas air sensor. i will try adjusting the idle settings, but i completely forgot how to work the translator. i remember that the aux doesnt get used and then theirs 4 dials on the bottom which is which and which way is leaner and richer?
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If you have this dial type I would think it is self explanatory.

 

Why don't you look at this PDF and see if you can figure the dials out?

 

http://www.fullthrottletech.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37&d=1093665074

 

Here is a link to the settings thread..

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107897

 

 

 

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/daniels_zx6/2010-05-20104201.jpg

Edited by Metric-man
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Take the plugs all out of it, check compression again. Take your finger and poke it in the #1 spark plug hole and turn the motor over by hand and when you feel pressure building stop turn it. Now continue turning clockwise until the crank pulley mark lines up with the TDC mark on the timing cover. Take your dist. cap off and make sure the rotor tip is pointing like the picture I posted. Stick a screwdriver in the plug wire and lay it across the valve cover and crank the motor over and watch for a spark. Take the pipe off leading into the throttlebody and look inside and make sure fuel squirts as the motor turns over. If all that is happening, you put the plugs back in it will run.
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