Manual brake conversion

[Maxzillian]

Nice update. I use a porterfield r4-s compound, which only needs one brake at first and rapidly gets up to temp. Depending on the track they'd hold up, but would be pretty good on a cone dodger I believe.

 

They've been working great for me, regularly smashing through canyon drives. So good I even had a full set on the wife's car for when I take it for a spin. I'm thinking about getting a set for my van lol.

 

-Robert

 

I may have to try those out. I've got Hawk HP+ on the front and if I remember, Axiss pads on the back. Surprisingly the mix of brake brands and materials hasn't caused any problems, but I would like to go to identical pads on all four corners.

 

Manual brakes and Steering are Win! The only difficult steering (at first) is a non-powered power rack . Takes some time getting used to and definitely deters anyone from trying to borrow your car.

 

Leaky 4WS lines on GVR4? no problem! Delete my powersteering pump.

 

I've still got power steering, although I have been tempted to weld up the valve in a spare box I've got and give it a try.

[Convette]

Glad to see they are still working out for you. A friend races spec 944 s and staggers his pads, nothing wrong with two different compounds. I ran hawk blacks which are great for the track, but noisy and dusty for the street. Didn't seem too take to long to heat up though.

[Technology]

I was thoroughly impressed by my full set of porterfields I put on before selling the car. What a difference over normal pads.

[Maxzillian]

Back from the dead! I finally got around to taking photos of the finished product... I do want to make a new bracket to get a little better mechanical advantage as well as reduce flex further, but overall I've been pleased. While the brakes a bit of a bear while cold, once warmed up it's plenty easy to lock up the racing slicks. I definitely don't recommend this for a street car, however. Especially if someone else sits in the car, they'll find the brakes are extremely stiff when cold.

 

 

http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders5.jpg

 

http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders6.jpg

 

http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders7.jpg

[Shelby]

ok some basics on manual braking,, power assist braking has one important thing , smaller pistons

to recive the mechanical advantage in order to effectively stop the car the manual master cyl has

larger pistons and in most cases longer petals after the actuateing rod pivit point

this may not be a problem with a Conquest as their brake petal is much longer then most cars already

 

using the same master from a power assist unit in a manual application will result in you having to

use very high pressure to get the same results in stoping the car

[Maxzillian]

ok some basics on manual braking,, power assist braking has one important thing , smaller pistons

to recive the mechanical advantage in order to effectively stop the car the manual master cyl has

larger pistons and in most cases longer petals after the actuateing rod pivit point

this may not be a problem with a Conquest as their brake petal is much longer then most cars already

 

using the same master from a power assist unit in a manual application will result in you having to

use very high pressure to get the same results in stoping the car

 

I agree, in my case I'm using two of the smallest master cylinders Willwood had to offer to keep the total mechanical advantage as high as I can manage.

 

Part of my problem with cold brakes likely has to do with the pad selection I have (Hawk HP+). If they were a street oriented pad they'd likely work much better when cold.

Edited February 28, 2015 by Maxzillian