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new hopeful owner


gomer3G
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i am trying to buy a 87 conquest tsi. the car has been sitting for a long time. the shop owner said that the car was running when it was parked over 7 yrs ago. i have good mechanical skills so engine work wont be to much of a problem for me. also, the body is in great condition and the interior is ok. my plan is to see if the car starts. if the engine is seized, i am going to offer him $500 for the body, if it turns but wont start, then i am going to offer him $800, if it starts then im going to offer him $1000. do these amounts sound good.
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If the body is good offer him 500 and tow it home, save the other 500 for any issues you find with the car.

Check the frame rails and fender wells for rot.

 

GL and welcome to the addiction..

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I too have an 87, if she starts, let er run and see if the fans kick on and check for any signs of overheat, my was overheated due to a failed thermostat, I agree with ironside, even if she runs, I wouldn't offer more than $800 upfront to save some room to work the deal, best of luck.
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thanks for the advice guys. i am a big mitsu fan. i have owned 2 3g eclipses. my current car is a 03 eclipse gts with the 6g72. i fell in love with the starion when i saw it on cannonball run when i was a kid. i have been looking for one since i turned 18.
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If you're determined to buy the car whether it starts of not, then offer the $500 without trying.

 

If you get it, worst case is that it really is seized, and then you paid your expected $500. If you can get it going, bonus!

 

Only if they refuse your offer, then counter with "well, I suppose if we can get it turning over it might be worth a bit more, like $700".

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Some things to think of as my car sat for 10 years.

 

- I had to replace all my brake lines and that as they seized

- I had to have the fuel tank and all that checked and replaced some parts of it because of rust issues.

- Tires had to be replaced as they developed flat spots.

- Some electrical components and their connections my have developed rust or corrosion that causes issues.

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If you're determined to buy the car whether it starts of not, then offer the $500 without trying.

 

If you get it, worst case is that it really is seized, and then you paid your expected $500. If you can get it going, bonus!

 

Only if they refuse your offer, then counter with "well, I suppose if we can get it turning over it might be worth a bit more, like $700".

 

Excellent advice here! GLWP ;)

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i know tires will be an issue. they have been flat since i first saw this car 7yrs ago. i dont know if they left fuel in it. i hope not. how hard is it to get to the fuel pump. is it like all other mitsubishis where it is under the rear passenger seats. wiring wont be a problem for me, i can do rewiring. if the fuel tank is rusted, where is a good place to look to get one.
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I believe you have to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump, bit there is an access panel in the hatch. I just don't think the pump can be removed from there. Regardless that would be needed to check the tank and filler pipe (they rust too). I haven't replaced my pump yet, but it is coming with my MPI upgrade.
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how hard is it to do a manual swap on these, and on what other cars would there be a manual transmission that i could use from. also, where do you all get your aftermarket parts from. and where do you get that ram air hood.
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By ram-air hood, are you refering to the '83 style hood? If so, then I'm lead to believe they're pretty rare over there, and hard/expensive to get. Also, the scoops on them are just for show, they're blocked off from the factory.

 

For aftermarket parts, I check out eBay usually, there are a few sellers doing bits for starquests these days. The D2 adjustable suspension is particularly good. Also google MotoCam360, as he does some nice accessories for these cars, I can personally recommend the hood strut kit and tinted fog light covers.

 

Manual swaps are about the same as any other car... There is a little metal cutting involved to get the shifter through in the right place, and make holes for the clutch master. You'd ideally need parts from another Starion, as they're pretty much the only thing that came out with a hydraulic clutch KM132 transmission (atleast that's true in my neck of the woods, I'm ot sure about your Mighty-Max's and D50's or whatever over there). Plus, if you can find a starion being wrecked, you can nab the pedal's and lines too.

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All the reading I've done leads me to believe the Auto's are pretty strong, but as with any auto, a higher stall speed, and a decent trans-cooler will help it out.
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Welcome to the Star-side (couldn't help it)

 

As far as other transmissions that would fit I think mitsubishi only had the aboved mentioned KM132 tranny for the four cylinder. I know people usually go with tacoma tranny's matted to a montero bell housing when they do v6 swaps but I haven't done enough research over tranny swaps to give any other info.

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  • 7 months later...

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