Burton Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Yeah, the bedliner will not just peel off. You'd have to sand it all off and start from scratch. Urethane bedliner is pretty much the same in composition to urethane paints. Think of bedliner as just a good durable urethane paint that goes on thick with a texture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Right, I'm looking for something that I can peel off. I was initially considering vinyl but this looks easier, so I'll stick with this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Well, one other thing to consider.... I know you want something temporary until you can get the paint done right, but I have had friends in similar situations who just didn't have the time and money to do their car right, and just wanted something thet was a decent looking driver, but didn't want a primered out car or vinyl. They ended up doing the bedliner thing just as a temporary thing, even tho I told them it would be a pain to sand down when the time came to do it right. In the end, they kept it bedlinered. The texture was enough to hide all the dings and scratches and other body imperfections, and it gave their cars a much different look. It didn't develop any more chips or scratches, and one guy even thought he had more people come talk to him at car shows and cruise ins than he would have if he just had a nice standard paint job. Again, this probably isn't an option for you, but if someone's looking for a driver quality car on the cheap more than a show car it may be a good option. You can do it without having to spend tons of time and money on bodywork and paint, yet it's still something that can look good and make a car stand out from the crowd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Good point Burton. My car does have a lot of dents and ding and some rust that will require a decent amount of body work before a fresh coat of paint. While on topic, what kind of prep work is required before applying bedliner? How well does it stand up to corners, like keylock hole, will it chip or crack when mounting it back in and tightening it down? Does it come in anything else but flat and is there a choice on texture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 (edited) Prep isn't bad- just a thurough sanding with 180-320 grit (depending on the manufacturer's specs). It stands up really good around corners, but since it is thick stuff you might want to file the edges of the key holes beforehand so after the thick bedliner is on you can still fit the key cylinder thru the hole. Just make sure the bedliner is fully cured before reinstalling parts. It's just like paint so if you put stuff together before it's cured the bedliner will still be a little soft. For instance, if it's soft and you put the key cylinder in tight, the soft stuff around the outer edge of the key cylinder might mash the bedliner down and cause a slightly higher ridge of bedliner around the key cylinder.. If it's above 70 degrees and you give it 12 hours to cure, you'll be good. Of course, if it's 80 and you can park it in the sun a couple hours after you spray it, you could probably start reassembling after about 8 hours. Most bedliner stuff comes as a matte or semi gloss finish, and most come in black. That link I gave you was to a clear bedliner that can be tinted any color you want with 10-20% of a regular basecoat. The texture as well as how shiny it is all depends on how far away the gun is when you apply the bedliner. Spraying up close will get you a smoother texture and more gloss, while spraying with the gun far away will give you a rougher texture and less gloss. Of course, if you wanted a rough texture, but as much gloss as possible, it wouldn't hurt anything to lay a coat of urethane clear over it to give it more gloss. That being said, a finish that is very textured and shiny may look more like a poorly sprayed clear (orangepeel), and less like a textured bedliner. Edited May 7, 2012 by Burton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Sounds like a good alternative to painting and avoiding a lot of bondo work. I will consider this in the future, but for now, sticking with plastic dip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason c Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 ive heard of the roll on rustoleum paint jobs with good outcomes ive actually got everything to do my truck since its just a daily driver to practice on , but the plastic dip is new to me, should be interesting to see this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Yeah, I saw those, but that's a LOT of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason c Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 it is alot of work , in sanding ect but for the money and the outcome, its pretty good alternative to high dallor paint jobs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 it is alot of work , in sanding ect but for the money and the outcome, its pretty good alternative to high dallor paint jobs While I have seen some nicely rolled and polished Rusoleum jobs, I wouldn't really call it a "good" alternative. A good standard paint job with urethane products will give you good shine right from the get-go, but is also a more quality product and won't fade and require lots of upkeep. There's a reason people quit using laquer based paints in the 80's- the newer technology in paints allows for finishes that will look good with very little upkeep. A nicely done Rustoleum job will need to be polished on at least once a year to keep the shine and to keep the color from looking faded, and that can equate to a lot of extra time. Of course, after a couple years of having to re-polish and such, the paint gets thinner, and eventually, you'll have to redo it. Of course, that's just upkeep. You might have 100 hours (or more) into painting, sanding and polishing the Rustoleum, whereas a quality standard paint job can be done in 40 hours or less. I know quality auto paints are more expensive than the Rustoleum, but if you know where to get your materials for cheap it's not too bad. I can get everything I need to do a base/clear for about $400 shipped to my door, while a nice urethane single stage product can be had for about $200-250. I can totally see why people get into this tho.... Buy a $50 gallon of Rustoleum, and that's all the money it will cost. What they don't think about is that there will still be money needing to be spent on the sandpaper and polish to get the final finish. Those polishes and a polisher can get pretty expensive if you don't already have them. And then, what is your time worth? Some people have nothing but time, and that's great for them, but I'm a pretty busy guy, and time is money. The work I do for both my parts sales and my work on cars gets me about $20 an hour. If I'm puting time into something I base it on if it's worth my rate. For instance... I can spend $500 on materials, and 40 hours to paint a car with quality stuff. That means the paint job "cost" me $500 in materials, and $800 in labor. $1300 for a nice urethane base/clear doesn't sound too bad. But, if I do the rustoleum thing, I got $50 into materials and $2000 plus for my labor. So, I could have a $2500 paint job that needs more of my time for upkeep every year, or I can spend $1300 for a quality product that just needs a quick coat of wax once or twice a year. Again, that's if your time is worth something to you. For someone who had no job, very, very, little income, and nothing but time on their hands, then I'd say it would probably be a good option- if not the only option. Otherwise, I'd be opting for the quality stuff. If the Rustoleum had good longetivity, I'd be more into this option. The problem is it fades and doesn't have the ability to stand up to the test of time like the quality auto paints, so that means more work every year to keep it looking nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedy2222 Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Update: Looks good on the car, I drove 30 miles to work an noticed one scratch on it from a rock or something, took it down to the primer below. I only put on about 2 layers, my initial layer to cover it all black and a second layer after that. It recommends 5-6, I'm not sure if half these layers are just light sprays where its not fully covered or 5-6 full covering layers. I posted the answer to this above, but apparently since i am not considered a starquest god my advice gets ignored Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Yes you did but I was not sure how many coats I put on. I guess I did 3 coats when it was thing before it became all black, put on a heavy coat and after 20 minutes a light coat. So does that count as 5-6 thin coats or? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedy2222 Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 no a heavy coat is not a light coat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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