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Going on 6 days now . . and I'm stumped !


TurboJace
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Have had a running and driving 4G63 swap now for over 6 years with few & far in between break downs.

 

I'm convinced my barber should no longer charge me the same amount he usually does, because I've been pulling my hair out for just shy of a week trying to figure out why my car won't start.

 

I've read dam near every "Starter Issue" . ."Funny One Click Sound" . . and "She just won't turn over" related post dating back from 2008 in my search to figure out why after all I've checked, changed, double checked and went BALD . . I simply cannot get this thing to start in a consistent manner.

 

Plain + simple . . I swing the ignition key all I get is CLICK. After installing a new starter and torqing it down, same thing. . CLICK. I backed out the two bolts about 3 rotations (thinking could be a bendix/drivegear alignment problem) and SHE TURNED OVER. Slowly began re-tightening all while going back&forth to ignition key with each turn of the bolts just to make sure, and engine turned over each time. . .completely tight and it worked !!

 

Let idle for 30 minutes (with a very consistent 14.5 volts) . .shut it off then tried to restart . . CLICK

 

With the search engine feature, and help of long time friend DieHARDmitsu on this forum, this is what I've done so far:

-Fully charged Optima battery

-Brand new battery terminals

-THOROUGHLY cleaned/sanded existing grounds and even added one more

-Changed all four fusible links and that single blade connector going to starter itself

-Removed IGN fusible link wire, and metered 0.2 ohm resistance blade to blade

 

I'm ssssstumped !!

 

Any sort of input would highly be appreciated as I'm searching the internet for the best Rogaine price.

 

-Thanks Fellas

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run a ground from body to battery and engine too battery and engine to body ( ive seen ground problems do goofy stuff like this many times ) Edited by Tman
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Have had a running and driving 4G63 swap now for over 6 years with few & far in between break downs.

 

I'm convinced my barber should no longer charge me the same amount he usually does, because I've been pulling my hair out for just shy of a week trying to figure out why my car won't start.

 

I've read dam near every "Starter Issue" . ."Funny One Click Sound" . . and "She just won't turn over" related post dating back from 2008 in my search to figure out why after all I've checked, changed, double checked and went BALD . . I simply cannot get this thing to start in a consistent manner.

 

Plain + simple . . I swing the ignition key all I get is CLICK. After installing a new starter and torqing it down, same thing. . CLICK. I backed out the two bolts about 3 rotations (thinking could be a bendix/drivegear alignment problem) and SHE TURNED OVER. Slowly began re-tightening all while going back&forth to ignition key with each turn of the bolts just to make sure, and engine turned over each time. . .completely tight and it worked !!

 

Let idle for 30 minutes (with a very consistent 14.5 volts) . .shut it off then tried to restart . . CLICK

 

With the search engine feature, and help of long time friend DieHARDmitsu on this forum, this is what I've done so far:

-Fully charged Optima battery

-Brand new battery terminals

-THOROUGHLY cleaned/sanded existing grounds and even added one more

-Changed all four fusible links and that single blade connector going to starter itself

-Removed IGN fusible link wire, and metered 0.2 ohm resistance blade to blade

 

I'm ssssstumped !!

 

Any sort of input would highly be appreciated as I'm searching the internet for the best Rogaine price.

 

-Thanks Fellas

 

Do you have an auto transmission?

 

What are you using for an ECU?

 

Are you using a tach adapter?

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yeah, sounds like a gear/flywheel issue. You say it locks up so you back the bolts out and it rolls over. Then it sounds like you have a good starter and good ground or it wouldn't roll over. Then you get the starter tight and it runs for a while, then it's click again. Maybe the starter gear is jamming when it is engaging. If you have tried everything, the only thing I can think of is to pull the tranny and make sure your flywheel is tight. Or if you have a good view of the flywheel with the inspection plate off. Grab it and yank on it hard to make sure it's not loose and isn't jamming the gear.
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Tman . . Thats what I did for the battery relocation to trunk years ago (just the way u described it). But will double check

 

Metric-man . . Its a 5 speed, 1990 6bolt 4G63 ecu, and no tach adapter just the 90' coil pack

 

Lance_S . . Good suggestion ! will check that tommorrow also

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Tman . . Thats what I did for the battery relocation to trunk years ago (just the way u described it). But will double check

 

Metric-man . . Its a 5 speed, 1990 6bolt 4G63 ecu, and no tach adapter just the 90' coil pack

 

Lance_S . . Good suggestion ! will check that tommorrow also

 

Um' have you replaced the capacitors in your ECM/ECU?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/209542-bad-capacitors-pics-inside.html

 

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/319760-what-leaky-ecu-capacitors-look-like.html

http://simon.chi.il.us/ECU/

 

Do you have a data logging connector on your harness?

Edited by Metric-man
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It is very common for store bought starters to be junk.

Have you checked the amp draw on the starter when you turn the key? If it skyrockets way up, then it has internal issues.

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