Technicafade Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Honestly wondering or is there a worthwhile group on Facebook. The question and answer section Is great and all the members of Starquest have been verry nice. I'd just like to know if there's a place to go that is easyier for newcomers? I feel like im going to be just another one of those guys who post a few things logs on 4 times and never returns other than to peruse the question and answers. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b166/rei_jaganshi/DSCN0413.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 I'm sure you have access to the BS forum. One of the pinned topics is other SQ sites. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=78870 i-x and 26liter are very good sites. Jimmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technicafade Posted March 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 I'm sure you have access to the BS forum. One of the pinned topics is other SQ sites. http://www.starquest...showtopic=78870 i-x and 26liter are very good sites. Jimmy Thank you Jimmy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ono Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 This is the best site around. I'm a car idiot and have never had a problem getting a question answered, finding a part or whatever. I will admit the search feature is a little irritating to deal with, but in the end, a small price to pay for getting just about anything you need accomplished, done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carguygibby Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Come on SQC as often or as little as you like, you're always welcome.If you want to keep that flatty in tip top shape then this is THE site for you.Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 best site out there by far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reidracing2000 Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 This site is the BEST!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 You have an 86. Things you need to know. Do not change those injectors to something else. Get them professionally cleaned. Do not put your air fitler into a CONE. Leave the MAF in the air can. Do not use K&N greasy BS filters they will eventually screw with the MAF, its lined with cardboard and it works using soundwaves and the DRY cardboard is there to absorb stray waves. You can't eliminate the hose that run from the throttlebody to the pressure sensor and back to the air can. The CTS must be accurate meaning your fuel system is more sensitive to have a bad one. What is it you have questions about you can't find? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technicafade Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 You have an 86. Things you need to know. Do not change those injectors to something else. Get them professionally cleaned. Do not put your air fitler into a CONE. Leave the MAF in the air can. Do not use K&N greasy BS filters they will eventually screw with the MAF, its lined with cardboard and it works using soundwaves and the DRY cardboard is there to absorb stray waves. You can't eliminate the hose that run from the throttlebody to the pressure sensor and back to the air can. The CTS must be accurate meaning your fuel system is more sensitive to have a bad one. What is it you have questions about you can't find? Thank you for all the info on the 86, I knew It had a different MAP but didn’t know it was so sensitive and now I know not to swap the injectors like I was planning.Recently the car has started to have an intermediate idling issue. Most of the time it will run fine but sometimes (mostly at stops) the idle will drop way low like 500 rpm. The car will still run and be a little rough. Since it doesn’t happen all the time it’s had to pinpoint. I changed the spark plugs and cap but when I looked into the distributor I saw that oil was getting in. That could be the cause but I’m not sure. At the same time as this happened I’ll go to pump my gas and the gas nozzle will spray gas out of its vents not sure it that’s related to the idle issue but it is quite strange and I haven’t been able to find any info on it.http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b166/rei_jaganshi/DSCN0276.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 There's two jam nuts on the throttle cable, loosen and move the cable housing closer to the throttlebody so you're sure there's enough slack in the cable. If the contact tip switch on the end of the idle motor doesn't always get mashed the idle motor doesn't move. If one of the wires is broken off the idle motor it won't move but it seems to move sometimes. The voltage of the TPS at idle after its warmed up needs to be 0.5 or less. This is in the service manual, 86s idle setup is a little different because there's not the same motor position sensor as in the later years. The distributor shaft does have a seal in it but that may have just been from spilled oil that landed near the cap where it meets the dist. body. There originally was a large oring there but most don't have it. I don't understand what you are saying about the gas vents. This happens as you take the cap off or just filling it? You have those gas hose nozzles with the boot over them that are to suck the fumes out when you are filling right? We don't have those but I've had to use those before and they were a pita. I was in St.Louis, MO last time I had to use those. That wouldn't be because of the car or its idle. You don't have a BOV do you? Those cause a temporary over rich condition because the air the ECU expected to reach the cylinders didn't and it put in the fuel for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technicafade Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 There's two jam nuts on the throttle cable, loosen and move the cable housing closer to the throttlebody so you're sure there's enough slack in the cable. If the contact tip switch on the end of the idle motor doesn't always get mashed the idle motor doesn't move. If one of the wires is broken off the idle motor it won't move but it seems to move sometimes. The voltage of the TPS at idle after its warmed up needs to be 0.5 or less. This is in the service manual, 86s idle setup is a little different because there's not the same motor position sensor as in the later years. The distributor shaft does have a seal in it but that may have just been from spilled oil that landed near the cap where it meets the dist. body. There originally was a large oring there but most don't have it. I don't understand what you are saying about the gas vents. This happens as you take the cap off or just filling it? You have those gas hose nozzles with the boot over them that are to suck the fumes out when you are filling right? We don't have those but I've had to use those before and they were a pita. I was in St.Louis, MO last time I had to use those. That wouldn't be because of the car or its idle. You don't have a BOV do you? Those cause a temporary over rich condition because the air the ECU expected to reach the cylinders didn't and it put in the fuel for it. Okay cool thanks for the info. No there is no BOV. This is my first turbo car so I only have common knowledge on how they function and how to maintenance & maintain them. There seems to be adequate slack on the cable but I’ll give it a try. Friends have actually recommended tightening the throttle cable but I don’t want to do that because the car idles fine for the most part. The oil in the distributer is deep in there and is nice and clean so I’m thinking it must be leaking in from the seal and not leaking in from spilt oil, plus it’s pretty clean on the outside not that it couldn’t have been cleaned by the previous owner. I’d take a picture but my I loaned my tools to a friend today so I can’t get the cap off. As for the gas pump here in California they have the nozzles with the boots. There are to holes at the beginning of the nozzle boot. when I take off the cap nothing happens but when I go to pump my gas fuel will start to eject out of these holes in vapor form (which is kind of scary considering all it would take to cause a fire would be a static shock from my hand as I reach to shut off the nozzle). I now have to pump slowly before pressure builds because after about 30 seconds of pumping the nozzle will begin spraying. Not all pumps do this and I’ve made sure that I’m pumping properly every time. It is one of the strangest automotive mysteries that has come my way in a while. I'm wondering if someone tried to siphon my gas because it didn't do this when I got the car. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b166/rei_jaganshi/DSCN0420.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technicafade Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I did replace the oxygen sensor when I bought the car but I still have the old one. I don’t think it has anything to do with the idle problem but I’ve had many cars that had idle issues brought about by a bad oxygen sensor or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 From looking at those nuts on the cable it appears its in about the right position. NO, don't tighten it. There's more than enough travel in the gas pedal to get wide open. This could be from sitting and you just need to drive it for a few weeks before you do anything with the screws on the throttlebody. That's usually what someone does when gaskets are blown and injectors nasty and think turning a screw will solve it and it makes it worse than its still screwed up after you fix it. What you may end up having to do it replace valve seals if it seems to smoke or burn oil. The PCV valve only use a dealer OEM part and that rubber hose across the valve cover from the back to the turbo inlet looked mashed and you should replace that portion. That's the hose the crankcase pressure vents from and is sucked back in the turbo inlet and it also sucks the pressure out before it builds up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technicafade Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 The rubber hose is fine, I know it looks pretty bad in the picture but that is actually just a thin latex cover that is peeling. I will give it a thorough look over though to be sure. The car did sit for a while but I've been driving it for a few months now. I'll go through the engine today and return with any findings. Thank you so much you seem to be insanely knowledgeable when it comes to these cars and I fully respect that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john82wa Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) You just mentioned NOT to use the K&N but in another portion of the site it mentions to use the K&N. Were you speaking of the rip-off brands? Edited March 29, 2012 by john82wa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 You spray a K&N filter with OIL. The LINER inside the MAF is cardboard. Do you know the purpose of this liner? What do you suppose happens when its oily? How about that plastic stick that's there to stir up the air you think it having an oily surface effects its purpose? The MAF is the primary and most important input sensor the ECU has, don't screw with it. You can take all the other inputs away except the tach signal and still drive the car but its not what it should be. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/151.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john82wa Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 You spray a K&N filter with OIL. The LINER inside the MAF is cardboard. Do you know the purpose of this liner? What do you suppose happens when its oily? How about that plastic stick that's there to stir up the air you think it having an oily surface effects its purpose? The MAF is the primary and most important input sensor the ECU has, don't screw with it. You can take all the other inputs away except the tach signal and still drive the car but its not what it should be. Point well taken, thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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