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Question About Wire Harness


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I'm trying to figure out my options as far as wiring goes... I really want to get rid of as much of the stock wiring harness as possible if not all of it.

 

My skill level with electronics is not near professional, but I have built from scratch basic circuit boards with soldering components and whatnot for different projects. It's been a while, but I'm usually good as long as I have some kind of diagram or manual.

 

I realize there are a ton of different options out there, but after reading some things people have said about building wire harnesses from scratch it seems that the time saved by just buying a stand alone system with a harness already made is well worth the money.

 

As far as stock things that need electric all I have is my windows, mirrors, and I want to keep my radio/speakers, front windshield wipers, tail lights, head lights, fog lights/signals.

 

I've been looking at megasquirt because it seems like the most cost effective solution, but how much of the harness does this really replace?

 

My motor/tranny should be out of my car this weekend and hopefully have a 1JZ + R154 combo in there by July. The "new" motor is going to come with the toyota wire harness/ecu so I'm assuming it will be in better condition than the wires that are in my 87 tsi right now. I'm thinking if I ran the toyota harness with the ecu instead of switching the ecu plugs just change whatever connections I need to get my lights/etc to work.

 

So anyways, If anyone has some positive input that would be great.

 

I'm just kind of weighing my options right now deciding which way I want to go with it.

 

This car is going to be on the street and I need to leave the emissions stuff in until I get everything passed.

 

I just mainly want my car as clean/minimal as possible.

 

Thanks for any help I really appreciate it.

 

-Kyle

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The beauty of the starquest is that the car and engine wire harnesses are separate. I wouldn't fool with the car harness. If you eliminate an item (eg. the vac pump, abs, etc), just tape shut its connector. Yes, yank the engine harness and start fresh for the swap. Part of the engine harness ties into the car harness for stuff like the gauges so you'll want to trace those lines out, keep that connector and some length of wire to get all those things working again. The problem with pulling out the car harness is that you start dealing with relays and such to get certain things to work like pop-up headlights and power windows. It's easy in a muscle car to completely go with a Painless harness because they don't have all the power stuff our cars have. Also, Mitsubishi shared a lot of ground wires so it can become a nightmare trying to thin out the harness. You're not going to save that much weight anyway. So don't fool with the car harness. This is just my opinion because I've been there and back. Edited by Goddard
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thanks, I do appreciate your input

 

Sure, no problem. On one 'quest I had I pulled it all out and stripped the car harness down (in theory to make things simpler and lighter) since it was going to be more of a track car. It ended up being more of a hassle than beneficial. Years later I regretted it because I went back to wanting the car more streetable. I pulled the full car harness out of a parts car and put it in my car to get many of the power items working again.

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