TooSLoW Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 As I have noticed, there are more than a few "car not starting issues". I can tell you that I have a 87' TSI and it does have spark, I get fuel up through the high pressure fuel line. I have replaced the clips, the injectors, both fuel filters, and check pressure from pump. HELP! I checked the ECI link and its good I also found that relay under the glove box clicks when the ignition is turned over. I have found that when spraying ether in the throttle body it will start, but not stay running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 What's your fuel pressure at the fuel rail?? How's your MAS (air flow sensor)?? Have you checked the ECU error codes?? Is your distributor aligned properly and in time?? Take off the intake hose going to the throttle body so you can look inside while cranking the engine to see if the injectors are spraying. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooSLoW Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 I haven't checked the pressure at the rail. I will say, doing it the redneck way, by disconnecting the high pressure fuel line and placing it in a gas can its quite strong. I havent checked the mas. What would be wrong with it? How do go about checking the ecu codes? Sorry if it comes across newb. Ive had it for roughly six months, I'm used to mk3 supras. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Did you just buy this 'Quest? Was it running if you bought it? Or was it running and suddenly started doing this? If it never has run since you bought it, it might be as simple as checking your plug wires to see if they are installed correctly in the dizzy cap. See FSM, Chapter 26 Electrical, page 8-152 for the correct locations on the dizzy cap. See this link for down loading the Field Service manual (FSM). http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_nav.html For What It's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooSLoW Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 The car has given me issues over the course but it was running, and quite well before this happened. It went from running limp to not running at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentkilla Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Try to get a wire to the test clip in the engine bay for the fuel pump. Run that straight to the positive on the battery to make sure the fuel pump is running, if it is then try to start. If it starts then your ign switch is bad, if the fuel pump doesn't run then the pump is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooSLoW Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Run a wire from the ECI to the positive side of the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 #1 check for spark.#2 check for fuel. No spark, could be coil, could be knock box, distributor cap, rotor etc. No fuel, bad pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Or...if you smell fuel... try disconnecting the primary injector and starting it. If it starts then stalls out (because the injector is unplugged)...that means its flooding. That could be, either your injectors are leaking...or...what happened to my car was, the CTS was bad. Basically, when the CTS goes bad, it defaults telling the computers it is below freezing outside, therefore it dumps a crap load of fuel in to compensate for the dense air. When it does this and its warm out...no start, just floods. So...try that...once again, if it is getting spark and fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentkilla Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Run a wire from the ECI to the positive side of the battery? no, from the test wire for the fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 (edited) no, from the test wire for the fuel pump. Make sure that you get the right fuel pump test connector. It's the single black with a white tracer wire connector by the air filter cannister.Here is a picture of it. http://i1032.photobucket.com/albums/a409/Starionpilot/Starquest%20How%20To%20Pictures/FuelpumpTestconnection.jpg DO NOT use the double wired ignition timing adjusting terminal that's located in the same area. You may fry your ignitor and EFI ECU if you do. For What It's Worth. KEN Edit - Check the vacuum tubing that runs from the FPR to the TB bore. Does it smell from gas? Does it have any gas in it? If so, then the FPR is shot. If the FPR is OK then: As you are trying to start the engine, get a LONG screw diver and put it on the metal body of the injector and put the handle to your ear. Do you hear the injector "clicking?" Do the same to the secondary injector. If the primary ain't clicking then you have a problem with it either getting a signal or the injector is shot. If the secondary is clicking too, then you really have a problem. I don't know what to say about that. If the secondary is clicking and the primary ain't, then you have the injector clips on the wrong injector. Edited May 24, 2011 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 to add to what was said use a volt meter and test for batt power at the inj clips with key on,,each clip should have one wire with voltage,, if the pri inj clip does not it may have a bad inj resistor if they both test ok, pick up an inj led tester at the auto parts store and see if the ecu is pulseing the injs while the engine is being crank'd under $10 but well worth the money while you have the meter out test each inj resistance they should read aprox 3 ohms each , next useing a 9 volt batt or volt batt and rig up leads to the inj terminals,one inj at a time , you should hear a click when power is place'd to each inj,, only do this momentarly do not hold the power to the injs for long never at any time power the inj clip to the ecu side of the clip also watch the dash tach,, does it jump when the engine is being crank'd if it does the ecu is seeing an ign pluse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooSLoW Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Make sure that you get the right fuel pump test connector. It's the single black with a white tracer wire connector by the air filter cannister.Here is a picture of it. DO NOT use the double wired ignition timing adjusting terminal that's located in the same area. You may fry your ignitor and EFI ECU if you do. For What It's Worth. KEN Edit - Check the vacuum tubing that runs from the FPR to the TB bore. Does it smell from gas? Does it have any gas in it? If so, then the FPR is shot. If the FPR is OK then: As you are trying to start the engine, get a LONG screw diver and put it on the metal body of the injector and put the handle to your ear. Do you hear the injector "clicking?" Do the same to the secondary injector. If the primary ain't clicking then you have a problem with it either getting a signal or the injector is shot. If the secondary is clicking too, then you really have a problem. I don't know what to say about that. If the secondary is clicking and the primary ain't, then you have the injector clips on the wrong injector. Well, I did this, I got a small trickle of fuel out of it. So, Fuel pump than? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 the pump may be bad but th e filters to the pump may be full of trash also,, it takes less then 30 min to pul the intank pick up and cleanand or replace all filters do not over look the small cone filter in the fuel pump inlet, it some times sticks inside the hose so you don't see it unless you look for it,, these are 90 % of the time plug'd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooSLoW Posted June 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 (edited) I replaced the pump with a walbro and it started, but than started leaking from the seal on the fuel pressure regulator. It almost feels like its too much fuel. Is an aftermarket fpr needed? Edited June 3, 2011 by TooSLoW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 most likely the pressure reg is dumping fuel into the intake by way of the vac hose,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooSLoW Posted June 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 So to break it down, the pressure regulator is bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 The FPR uses a tiny oring on it, get a new one, can be found at Autozone or similar. Careful not to strip the studs on it. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooSLoW Posted June 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 Thank you! I actually get to drive my car! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 What's your fuel pressure at the fuel rail?? Rrrrrrrreally should find this out, to ensure the fuel system is working properly. You can get a cheap gauge at Harbor Freight to put on just to test. Get a hose long enough, and tape the gauge to the windshield and watch it while you are under boost. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooSLoW Posted June 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 I replaced the o-ring. Stopped it from leaking, drove the car and as soon as I get to boost, it bogs. Someone said something about the vac advancer. Where can I get another one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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