Jump to content

Sputter


Corey
 Share

Recommended Posts

Start over and describe it better. Which NGK plugs do you have? Did you test the BOV to see if its opening while driving? Rev and hold the rpms to about 3000 and put you have over it. Steady rpms with the high volume of low pressure can suck those open then it lets your metered air escape and it runs very rich. They can't open at all while cruising and shouldn't be opening if you just SLIGHTLY lift the gas pedal either and most do because the springs in them are too weak.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im currently running bosch's actually :ph34r: , however i was running ngk's earlier in this issue. Just switched them like a week ago. Autozone no longer carrys NGK's for us.

 

BOV leaks at idle. However, i put my hand over it, blocking the leak off. I revved, and it still sputtered. Its almost like its hitting a 2step ha, but its unwanted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replace the cone with a 1/2 inch inline filter. Napa has one for about $12 that works great. The in-tank filter basicly just keeps rocks out. You want something finer than that before your pump. You don't want to replace a pump along with what ever else is wrong. Edited by Cloud81918
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully getting an 88 parts car today or tomorrow.

 

Ill swap injectors first.

 

If that doesnt work, ill swap distributors.

 

If that doesnt work ill light the car on fire, and collect insurance. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But maybe thats why its only boosting ten pounds as well?

 

16G Turbos don't even make power until 13 psi. boost.What are you using to boost above 10 psi.? If you do not have a Boost Controller installed to manually increase the boost...You will only boost to 10 psi (Maximum boost psi. on a 1988/89)Thus, making the 16g a 10 psi. turbo. Max. psi.is 20 on the SM.16G. Your not even reaching the min. boost efficiency range at 10 psi.Try using a IMPACT GUN on it, maybe you'll increase the Pounds per Square Inch. by over torquing it. P.S."I have all this trick stuff on my engine but didn't know that I could only boost to 10 psi without installing a Boost Controller" DUH!!!!! However, I do know how to over torque Wheel nuts. :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL!

 

I was thinking that stock boost was 12 for some reason...I have a MBC, but currently not installed, i took it out because i wanted to eliminate that as a possible issue...

 

Like i said, im getting an 88 parts car tomorrow. Im gonna swap injectors first, then distributors if that doesnt help.

 

Ill let you all know what it is, then this can help someone else out in the future!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW, i have a halman MBC, no egay crap.

 

 

Try and avoid cluttering my thread please. Talking s*** doesnt really sit well on me. Were all SQ owners, if you dont have a point to your post, please dont.

 

A simple, "are you currently running a boost controller" would have sufficed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The BOV needs fixed or it needs to be gone it can not leak period. If you rev up the rpms to 3000k and hold them steady and put your hand over the BOV it can not leak at all. If it does then its broken, out of adjustment or has a spring that is too weak. If its a DSM BOV you need to mod it and there's sites of how you can do that just google it, search "DSM BOV MOD". As you cruise down the road at stable rpms the thing is leaking and its leaking worse since the turbo is blowing more air under load than with the car just sitting there and you holding the throttle open. That air pushed from the turbo even though its not under pressure has been metered by the MAF and when the BOV also have the high volume of low pressure air (vacuum) from the throttlebody reference hose its sucked open and blowing out a massive volume of metered air and the engine will run super rich and get horrible fuel mileage and foul spark plugs. The Bosch plugs are your biggest problem right now those plugs foul out and misfire and the engine just will not rev up under boost. If you found a Bosch plug in the TYPE that is an equal to the NGK7031 great but I know of no such plug they make. I no longer shop at Autozone because I am through trying to educate the morons they hire. Go to NAPA and order 4- NGK part #7031. Get rid of the BOV if you can't get it to seal. The MBC, and imo there's no such thing as a MBC that's not a POS no matter where it came from or who made it because like when your microwave is broken once you have an EBC you'll never go back, for that little turbo isn't necessary you'd be better off with a little 1/8" vacuum T in the wastegate reference hose that just has a leak to the atmosphere. That will end up having about 15-18psi and a small 16g can't run a working stock fuel system out of fuel until you exceed stock red line and attempt to SUSTAIN it. You can boost it to 30psi on upshifts if you like its only there for a split second. When you have a vacuum leak like that the actuator isn't loaded up and has the flap partially open and ready to move open until the pressure is built up and then overcomes the spring to move the flapper. When you have a boost leak like that not only do you build boost quicker and at lower rpms, another side effect is a slight boost spike on upshifts that are one of the optional functions of an EBC should you enable it. You need an air/fuel gauge. Wrong plug TYPE and a leaking BOV=your car will not run under boost.

 

 

http://www.produkte24.com/images/catalogs/3330/24001/ct/normal_pkw-zuendkerzen-2009-2010-000007.jpg

Your engine when it was new had a semi surface discharge spark plug in it. This is the same plug as an alternate plug that you might have had but the end is designed to not foul out. Its like the plug type "E" above. When you have a fuel system that has a variable fuel pressure you need to run a plug of this type. Lets say your BOV is just leaking a little and you had the right plug, you'd be far better off than you are now. That wide swing in air/fuel ratios on modern cars is much better controlled than it is from our antique ECUs. The stock ECU can't do anything about it and if the plug you use fouls and misfires you are screwed.

 

This top listed plug is NGK7031, the plug right under it is the same plug design from Denso. The "alternate" plugs which by the way only work on a fuel system that has as stable as possible air/fuel ratio, will not allow the engine to run even to get it fixed because they foul so easily.

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v5206/244/80/1778479606/n1778479606_70423_1911684.jpg

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/semisurface2.jpg

 

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs123.snc1/5289_1027208978663_1778479606_56212_606787_n.jpg

Edited by Indiana
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i once had a problem like this turns out it was a compound of things. does your cruse control work or does your heat switch from defrost to floor to vent (not all at once)? this was one problem on mine a lonely vac port on the bottom of the TB also my vac line for the FP reg cracked there is a lot of vac line on these cars so check them closely. i also had a bad fuel pump dampener and some fubured injectors. hope this helps

 

T87

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I suppose i should update this...

 

THe problem ended up being a Bad secondary injector. I swapped over an injector out of a parts car i just got, and BAM. runs great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats cool mane. glad to hear the problem was solved. Im on the virge of solving mine too i think. Thanks for the offer for the mas. I have a new maft kit on the way with a wideband. we'll both be on the road in full force. :lol:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...