tg118 Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 So i got my rebuilt turbo back finally,,, still the same issue no boost,car runs on moor perfect, but wont boost... tried 3 waste gate actuators, did a boost leak test looks good, i rev the motor under from under the hood, and the waste gate arm dont move , new boost controller... im lost u guys know of anything else i can check, im stumped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 So i got my rebuilt turbo back finally,,, still the same issue no boost,car runs on moor perfect, but wont boost... tried 3 waste gate actuators, did a boost leak test looks good, i rev the motor under from under the hood, and the waste gate arm dont move , new boost controller... im lost u guys know of anything else i can check, im stumpedremove the boost controllerthe arm will not move reving itwhat are you using to reference if not having boost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 You can't get a turbo to make boost unless you are driving I hope that's not why you had it rebuilt. You can rev it up and it will approach 0 but not boost. Only way to make it boost is to throw extra fuel into the exhaust so it ignites there and that expanding gas will spin the shaft fast enough to create boost, or cut ignition to one cylinder or at random which is how that's done for a launch if you have something to control that then its call antilag. What happens when you drive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tg118 Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 it doesnt boost while driving, not even a little... usually revving up it will create a lil, blowing off while under the hood, its doing nothing no boost... i took the boost controller off and ran a hose just to eliminate it, still nothing, im really lost here car runs great just no boost... i had the turbo upgraded to a 16g , old unit had alot of shaft play... any other things to check cuz im outta ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tg118 Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 remove the boost controllerthe arm will not move reving itwhat are you using to reference if not having boost?i took the boost controller off, and put a host to the actuator, but when i drive and get on it it builds no boost, im stumped dont know what to dowith it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 The wastegate actuator has to put some force against the flapper so that it isn't leaking, pull the arm off and put it up next to the pin on that flapper arm and the arm will be about 1/8" too short, take both hands and pull the arm out from the actuator and hook it on the pin. If the secondary injector isn't working there's no enough fuel to make boost. If you quickly mash the gas pedal to the floor does it rev up? Is that BOV leaking? Rev it up and hold it about 3000rpms and put your hand near it, there can be no air coming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 does it rev past 2500rpm? maybe your running out of fuel. Otherwise I would first look at wastegate. Disconnect it and move it all the way right till it stops, is the wastegate arm too long maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tg118 Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Yea it will drive fine up the RPM range, just no boost, i am staring to suspect the injector as Indiana stated, i hope so i have an extra set, im gonna try, damm thanks for the thoughts guys !!! ill let ya know tomorrow, lets hope i hear that sweet Pssssssst sound again!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 If it goes up the range fine then it's not a fuel issue. It has to be wastegate or plumbing. If not then the exhaust would have to go through the turbine and spool up the compressor and you would have boost. Do you have all piping connected up right? maybe the intercooler plumbing has a hole in it? Maybe a raccoon stole your intercooler..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tg118 Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 dammmm u mean that intercooler is important ahhhh JK ... yea all the plumbing is good, man well lets say this it goes thru the RPM rang ok, it doesnt fall on its face, but its not impressive and it not my quest if ya know what i mean, so if it was a fuel issue it would tottaly fall on its face? or would it just go like a 83 ford escort like its been? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 If you ran out of fuel you should run out of power. the turbo runs on exhaust, not on extra fuel. something is preventing the turbo from spinning, or your exhaust is going somewhere other than through the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 is the turbo bolted on the car? if not it wont build boosti dont think the wastegate flapper is sealing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tg118 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 well i tried a backup secondary injectory i had lying around, car still runs the same... cant b sure that old injector is any good to b honest, i was going to get a set of Trilogy injectors, but id rather find out if thats the problem before i keep buying stuff for it... the wast gate arm has tension on it so its not open, RAGDOLL did the turbo, and i really didnt open it up to see if the gate flapper was totally closed... any easy way to check the injectors, they are new clip pig tails, anyone know what kind of voltage(signal) reading i should b getting to the pigtail on the secondary injector, thinking maybe a cold solder joint, gonna redo that and see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Has the cat nearest the turbo been gutted? If not - the flow restrictions in that cat could cause the boost issues you are describing. It could also be the secondary cat, but not likely. Few of them clog up. For What It's Worth KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 the wast gate arm has tension on it so its not open, RAGDOLL did the turbo, and i really didnt open it up to see if the gate flapper was totally closed... You don't have to take anything apart or "open" all you do is remove a cotter pin and a washer if he even used one. If you didn't prime the turbo maybe its already burnt out. Did you? Do you know what that means and how to do it? If you won't even check the most basic thing why a turbo can't build boost then what do you expect from us? That wastegate actuator arm has alot more tension on it than you think and even if it has the flapper arm held completely open the SAME TENSION is on the arm no matter what position that flapper is in because that arm is pulled back in with a spring. You have to take the arm OFF and do what I already told you to do there is no other way to do it. and I'm sorry about that other part http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/WGactuator.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tg118 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Has the cat nearest the turbo been gutted? If not - the flow restrictions in that cat could cause the boost issues you are describing. It could also be the secondary cat, but not likely. Few of them clog up. For What It's Worth KENYea down pipe cats gone, and the other is a new hi flo thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tg118 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 You don't have to take anything apart or "open" all you do is remove a cotter pin and a washer if he even used one. If you didn't prime the turbo maybe its already burnt out. Did you? Do you know what that means and how to do it? If you won't even check the most basic thing why a turbo can't build boost then what do you expect from us? That wastegate actuator arm has alot more tension on it than you think and even if it has the flapper arm held completely open the SAME TENSION is on the arm no matter what position that flapper is in because that arm is pulled back in with a spring. You have to take the arm OFF and do what I already told you to do there is no other way to do it. and I'm sorry about that other part http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/WGactuator.jpgFYI BRO not sure what that was about , i checked, and it does have tension... not to be smart but i built 2- 2.6 litres with all the good stuff , this is something that is probaly stupid and am asking for ideas, as im sure u have in the past... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 (edited) Good luck. Edited February 28, 2011 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G54bCorolla Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 FYI BRO not sure what that was about , i checked, and it does have tension... not to be smart but i built 2- 2.6 litres with all the good stuff , this is something that is probaly stupid and am asking for ideas, as im sure u have in the past... not sure if this helps but maybe an exhaust leak before the turbo (i.e -cracked manifold, bad exhaust mani. gasket) could be a possible reason why your not boosting. i experienced a similar problem and couldnt figure out what it was until i pulled the maniold and saw a large crack,the gasket had deteriorated and 6 out of 8 studs had no threads to bolt on too. car was definately a COW because of this. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Quit messing with injectors. What part of you do not have a fuel issue don't you understand? Unless your car is running lean as can be you cannot go through the RPM range without fuel. You would get so much air your car would melt the turbo or simply cut off and then you would be able to tell. Sorry, but at this point your starting to annoy people. You seem to be trolling. Nothing personal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 tried 3 waste gate actuators, did a boost leak test looks goodI still don't see the part about the actuator is bolted on but not connected to the flapper pin then the flapper is all the way forward and you have to use both hands to pull the actuator arm out to get it to hook onto the pin for a preload of the flapper. Miscommunication. You can put a pump on it all day long to see if one "leaks" but personally I've never seen a leaky one but if the actuator arm is in all the way and its on the flapper arm and you just sort of hooked it to the pin then bolted it to the compressor housing you have no way of knowing if or how much load is on there. This isn't even described in the service manual it just says to NOT mess with the adjustment. That statement assumes nothing is bent and the parts are OEM unmodified. When the wastegate is opened, it only takes about 1/4"-3/8" of movement of that arm extending and that's all you get. Some seem to think it just blows out an inch or two and it doesn't, sorry you only need to barely crack that flap open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badtoad Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 Give us pictures !!!! that will help alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tg118 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 I still don't see the part about the actuator is bolted on but not connected to the flapper pin then the flapper is all the way forward and you have to use both hands to pull the actuator arm out to get it to hook onto the pin for a preload of the flapper. Miscommunication. You can put a pump on it all day long to see if one "leaks" but personally I've never seen a leaky one but if the actuator arm is in all the way and its on the flapper arm and you just sort of hooked it to the pin then bolted it to the compressor housing you have no way of knowing if or how much load is on there. This isn't even described in the service manual it just says to NOT mess with the adjustment. That statement assumes nothing is bent and the parts are OEM unmodified. When the wastegate is opened, it only takes about 1/4"-3/8" of movement of that arm extending and that's all you get. Some seem to think it just blows out an inch or two and it doesn't, sorry you only need to barely crack that flap open.OK, yea just double checked what u said, and yes in order to connect it i need to pull on the actuator arm with two hands about 1/4 inch to get it on the Pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badtoad Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 have you tryed taking the hose off the BOV ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questkid760 Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 I had the exact same issue and it was my secondary injector and i got the trilogys boost came right back in to play Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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