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ScooterDude92

By ScooterDude92,
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ScooterDude92 Newbie

ScooterDude92

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as the title says my car is breaking up if i push the gas in to far its not boost related because i took the wastegate acuator of and ran no boost and it still does it, also car is running pretty hot i have installed an extra fan on the front of the radiator, but i dont thing either of my other fans are working
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Indiana Newbie

Indiana

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Primary and secondary cooling fans are independant of each other. Each fan has a relay and thermosensor that acts as a switch to turn the motor on. The power feed is constant through a fuse link and the relay just makes the ground path.
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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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If your secondary fan turns on first then the primary wont run.

 

At idle when you punch the gas what happens?

 

I agree with Indiana in his above reply.

 

 

But back to scooterdude92's problem on over heating cuz of the fans not working. PQ has a damn good write up on the fans operation and trouble shooting along with pictures. See http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067&sid=3e0677f64a8dda5bedab899fd6b96935

 

Also see http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1097&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=50 for info on troubleshooting the engine sensors and cleaning up the electrical connector metal terminals. Do not overlook the ISC/MPS. I have seen those be the root cause of some weird off the wall fuel system problems over the years. Be sure to test the engine coolant temperature sensor.

 

What are your plug gaps set at and what kind are you using? How old are your plug wires and what type are you using?

 

Also see http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=907 for testing the TPS.

 

For the heck of it, check out your fuel injectors IAW http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=902 for the ohm readings. And check 'em both for weepage/leakage in/at the TB bore with the OVCP off and the fuel pump energized. I believe you said that you had already changed the injector clips. Even tho it's new, I believe there may be problem with the secondary injector, cuz it kicks in at about 3K RPM's.

 

Ya might also want to check your vacuum advance for correct operation and check out the distributor info on http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1131 And check to see if the vacuum tubing is hooked up correctly, especially to the distributor vacuum advance. See the FSM page 14-47 for the engine vacuum tubing layout. See http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/service_manual_index.html to down load it.

 

BUT THE FIRST THING I WOULD DO IS CORRECT THE OVERHEATING PROBLEM. Or you could be replacing a cracked cylinder head in addition to correcting your miss-fire problem.

 

For What It's Worth

 

KEN

 

BTW - If you are not sure that what you are posting is 100% correct then do not post a reply. It's not the number of posts in your sig but the completeness and accuracy of your posts that counts most on this web site VM forum.

Edited by Starfighterpilot
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ScooterDude92 Newbie

ScooterDude92

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i have ngk plugs/wires, all 3 of my fans work i am no longer overheating, its 10 deg befor tdc checked with timing light, my vacume advaced is brand new and does operate correctly and is on the correct port on the tb, it is obviously running rich as crap, it smokes black on cold start and it smells like gas, dont tell me its burnibg oil or some bs cause i know it dosnt use oil/water at all.....thanks curt
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87Black_Stallion Newbie

87Black_Stallion

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i have ngk plugs/wires, all 3 of my fans work i am no longer overheating, its 10 deg befor tdc checked with timing light, my vacume advaced is brand new and does operate correctly and is on the correct port on the tb, it is obviously running rich as crap, it smokes black on cold start and it smells like gas, dont tell me its burnibg oil or some bs cause i know it dosnt use oil/water at all.....thanks curt

You should explain everything on the first post so other people don't have to sit here and guess. When they give you valuable information, you then get pissed off at them when in fact it was your fault for not explaining anything from the start.

 

Remove the ovcp, run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the fuel pump test connector. Look inside the the throttle body and see if the injectors are leaking, you might need a flashlight. Have you run the codes yet?

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87Black_Stallion Newbie

87Black_Stallion

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The easiest and cheapest way to check for ECU error codes is to go to Radio Shack and buy a 12v LED for about $2.50.

 

 

Once you have your LED, it's best to solder alligator clips onto each wire. I've heard you can go without them, but I've never got it to work without them.

 

Once you have your LED ready to roll, it's time to test for codes. I was surprised as to how easy it was to check for these.

 

Open the glove box, and squeeze the sides to drop it all the way down. Get down and look up and you will see a white/yellowish colored plug with nothing plugged into it. Take the LED and hook the red lead up to the most upper right terminal, and the black lead to the most lower left terminal. *** If you pull the plug off its perch it makes it easier. The black wire with a red stripe is positive and the other corner wire that is solid black is negative*** Once you have done this, you're just about done. Just start the car, or turn the key to the "On" position.

 

If there are any errors, the LED will blink a certain amount of times. The amount of blinks determines the error. For example, 1 blink then a pause, then one blink again, is code #1. 3 blinks, then a pause, then 3 blinks, again, and so on and so forth, is code #3. Note - It will always give you a code 1 (o2 sensor) until the car warms up, and the car must be started to test this.

 

Diagnostic Codes Table

Diagnostic Code................Diagnostic

Item

1......................Oxygen Sensor

2 .....................Engine Speed Sensor

3......................Airflow Sensor

5......................Throttle Position Sensor

6......................ISC Motor Position Sensor

7......................Coolant Temperature Sensor

.....(code 4 is for Cordia/Tredia only.)

 

After you've checked the codes, and fixed whatever was wrong, unplug the battery for a minute to reset your ECU. Hope this helps.

 

Diagnostic Code 1 (Oxygen Sensor) If oxygen sensor signal does not change for 20 seconds or more in feedback range, check wiring harness and connector, oxygen sensor and ECU.

 

Diagnostic Code 2 (Engine Speed Sensor) While cranking engine, if input of ignition signal is not applied to computer for 3 seconds or more, check wiring harness and connector, ignitor and ECU.

 

Diagnostic Code 3 (Airflow Sensor) On all models, if airflow sensor maximum output is 10 cycles per second while engine is idling, check wiring harness and connector, airflow sensor and ECU. On Cordia and Tredia models. if engine stalls and output rises to 100 cycles per second, check wiring harness and connector, airflow sensor and ECU.

 

Diagnostic Code 4 (Pressure Sensor) If pressure sensor output is 4 5 volts or more, or .2 volt or less, check wiring harness and connector, pressure sensor and ECU.

 

Diagnostic Code 5 (Throttle Position Sensor) If throttle position sensor output is 2 volt or less, or is 4 volts or higher for one second or more while engine is idling (idle switch on), check wiring harness and connector, TPS and ECU.

 

Diagnostic Code 6 (ISC Motor Position Sensor) On Cordia and Tredia models, if throttle position sensor output is .4 volt with L switch off, check wiring harness and connector, ISC servo and ECU. On all others, if motor position sensor output is 4.8 volts or more, or .2 volt or less, check wiring harness and connector, MPS and ECU.

 

Diagnostic Code 7 (Coolant Temperature Sensor) If coolant temperature sensor output is .1 volt or less, or 4.5 volts or more, check wiring harness and connector, coolant temperature sensor and ECU.

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87Black_Stallion Newbie

87Black_Stallion

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Some users take a led and permanently mount it in the interior and then hardwire it to the plug so it can be monitored while driving. No codes it will be on constantly, so I would advise not pointing it directly at your face as it will be bright at night.
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Indiana Newbie

Indiana

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Code 4, that's for a pre87 car. These all use pressure sensors 1983-1986 Starions. Its on the firewall next to the master cylinder. Its used along with the MAF and is the reason why the car will run with one or the other disconnected but will run like crap.

 

 

 

 

Verify you have the correct harness connector on your CTS and not the one for the temp. gauge.

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/ECICTS.jpg

 

 

 

You have your injectors plugged in backwards?

BOV leaking?

You don't have OEM injectors do you? How do you know one didn't take a crap on you?

 

 

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Indiana Newbie

Indiana

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2 is ignition signal and that means likely a misfire and that throws a 3 so what does this tell you? Wrong spark plugs. Wrong air fuel ratio, leaky BOV all back to the first comments there is no mysterious hidden gremlin its something simple and its not the MAF.

 

 

Can't make a list but what is your air fuel ratio when this happens and what part number plug do you have? Start back with the basics. Have you looked at the plugs today?

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ScooterDude92 Newbie

ScooterDude92

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alright i restest the ecu (unpluged the neg) and i was getting a consistant 1 even when warmed up and driving my led would stay on but start throwin a blink every now and then, on the way home from my girlfriends it was throwing a 1 and a 2, so yea i have ngk spark plugs (the ones you get at advanced), i mostly think it was giving me a 1 and a 2 because my o2 sensor is bad and is causeing it to run rich, which it is obviously running rich haha, but i really want to fix it cause you know...i love my car, so i really want to find out whats wrong with its so im trying everthing haha
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