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IDLES BELOW 1000rpm AND TURNS OFF

JayR_NYC

By JayR_NYC,
in Advanced Virtual Mechanic

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starquestG54B Newbie

starquestG54B

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GUYS calm down i know 89steve is knowitall lil pr*c but still calm down and try to figure this out! do a TPS reset and then do a simple elimination till its fixed . could be coil,could be some vac line thats not hookedup....ya never know.go thru it and figure it out. everybody relax. this site is FOR HELPING PEOPLE OUT AND SHOWING MODS FOR THESE CARS! if u wanna get pissie go SOMWHERE ELSE!
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89Steve Newbie

89Steve

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GUYS calm down i know 89steve is knowitall lil pr*c but still calm down and try to figure this out! do a TPS reset and then do a simple elimination till its fixed . could be coil,could be some vac line thats not hookedup....ya never know.go thru it and figure it out. everybody relax. this site is FOR HELPING PEOPLE OUT AND SHOWING MODS FOR THESE CARS! if u wanna get pissie go SOMWHERE ELSE!

 

Lol nice call out big guy. I'm guessing this is you trying to save face from your last thread where you got verbally raped by half of SQC. I'm glad i'm the one your trying to throw the negative attention to, makes me feel all warm inside.

 

Oh, and I did try and help him. Go back and read my post. Dont you feel stupid.

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Indiana Newbie

Indiana

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Several things need to happen at the same time if you want that idle motor to move.

 

The stop screw on the throttle shaft might be too tight so the throttle plate is never closing completely so they say to back it way off.

 

If the cable is too tight it might be loose now but if the idle motor moves it could get tight again you can't tell where the idle motor is at so make it very loose to start out.

 

The tip switch in the end of the idle motor must be closed this is the first thing that must happen or the motor won't be moved no matter what all the other things are set at.

 

The TPS needs to be at .7volts or LOWER.

 

If the CTS tells the ECU its cold then the idle is a bit higher when you start up the motor but it will come down and this is when it has to be at least .7 or lower and .5 is a better choice.

 

So the tip switch is closed, the ECU knows if the coolant is cold or warm/hot from the CTS and the cable is loose and the stop screw is backed off. This is where you have to make some assumptions like the compression in right, the plugs aren't fouled, your intercooler hoses aren't leaking, the BOV isn't leaking, the injectors are firing right and its not loaded up, there aren't any air leaks, the PCV hose isn't cracked and the PCV is present not an open line or that retarded krankvent valve that flows too much if the PCV valve isn't there. The stock PCV valve has an orifice inside it to limit the air flow in one direction. If you are moving it also looks at the speed sensor to see how fast you are going so the idle doesn't drop too quick.

 

What does the ECU look at to come up with an "idle"? All it does is move the idle motor either in or out until the MOTOR POSITION SENSOR falls into the .8-1.2v range then it stops. If you aren't at an idle speed you like then tough crap the ECU doesn't care this is all it can do. It doesn't see rpms or care what they are. You can't set any of this up without a volt meter and a timing light. You change the timing that changes the rpms, you change the throttle position and the TPS might be out of range. This is assuming your motor is all stock because this is all the ECU can do its pretty stupid and only has a couple sensors it can use.

 

Things can be going on that won't let your car idle at all even if the TPS etc. IS set up correctly.

 

Example, wrong injectors, wrong fuel pressure, wrong spark plugs, bad compression, bad fuel, burning oil, leaky BOV, dead turbo, clogged exhaust, plugged up intercooler, incorrect ignition timing, dead hydraulic lifters, out of adjustment mechanical rocker arms, incorrect cam timing, non stock camshaft, change in piston compression height. Many things effect idle rpms on any motor and since this antique ECU is very basic and is really only a FUEL ECU not an ignition ECU then don't expect it to do very much and it can't always make the car idle if things are too far out of range. Highly modded cars might not be able to idle at all and the idle motor is just dead weight. A cam with an increased duration won't idle on stock injectors since it sucks in so much more AIR and the injector pulse at idle isn't something that very adjustable.

 

If it were so simple it wouldn't be a question that's asked 5 times a week.

 

It still starts with a throttle cable that must always be loose when your throttle is closed. I suppose someone might think that it can't be loose because you might not be able to get it completely open if you mash the pedal to the floor but there is plenty of pedal to get that done don't worry.

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19cturbo Newbie

19cturbo

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thats true...these cars r tricky...i been so busy and stuff...i changed the tps with spare that i have...it idles better...cuz before it will die out trying 2 get of a parking space...now it starts off gud....then warmed up after driving 4 awhile...that problem starts 2 happen...

Thanx 2 ever one trying 2 help... im new in this Quest world... i just need people 2 have my back on this....PLEASE

 

 

thats good that you changed the TPS but it still has to be set with a volt meter or your really pissing in the wind, so you still need to do the reset i advised in the second post, and go from there, once you know your sensors are working correctly and the problem presist then you know to move on and look elsewehre.

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JayR_NYC Newbie

JayR_NYC

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Could be the injectors flooding the Throttle body...remember those "AFTERMARKET" injectors are larger than Stock.

PUT BACK THE ORIGINALS AND SEE WHAT HAPPENDS.

im running with stock injectors...

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JayR_NYC Newbie

JayR_NYC

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thats good that you changed the TPS but it still has to be set with a volt meter or your really pissing in the wind, so you still need to do the reset i advised in the second post, and go from there, once you know your sensors are working correctly and the problem presist then you know to move on and look elsewehre.

thanx...4 the help and the advices u guys have given me...

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JayR_NYC Newbie

JayR_NYC

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Does it do it every time u push in the clutch after the BOV goes off? If so...thats normal on a MAF metered car.

when its fully warmed up....thats when the problem with the idle happens...it chokes and the rpm drops a little below 1000k...like it wants 2 turn off...most of the time if i dont press on the gas pedal it wil turn off...BOV works great and it doesnt affect the situation

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JayR_NYC Newbie

JayR_NYC

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can u find video or even photos on how 2 do it....step by step....please...im trying 2 do it myself with the help of everybody here....PLEASE

where is the ISC located?????

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JayR_NYC Newbie

JayR_NYC

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Actually what you need to do first would probably be check for error codes. You can find out how in the FAQ section on this board...lots of nice information in there.

 

To me it doesnt seem to be isc/tps situation...could be i just doubt it unless its been messed with before. That little SAS screw should keep the car from dieing right?

the ISC/MPS was never messed with...i never touch it or played with it at all

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JayR_NYC Newbie

JayR_NYC

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thats good that you changed the TPS but it still has to be set with a volt meter or your really pissing in the wind, so you still need to do the reset i advised in the second post, and go from there, once you know your sensors are working correctly and the problem presist then you know to move on and look elsewehre.

i was told by another Quester...that 2 unplug the TPS while the engine is ON...and the car should turn OFF...leave it OFF...unplug the BAttery...touch the BATTERY terminal 2gether for a few seconds...and that would reset the COMPUTER from ERRORs...plug the TPS and Terminals...and this sgould work FINE...so i did wat he said 2 see if its true...I umplugged my TPS but the car never TURNED OFF...it stayed ON...so i unplugged the MAS...and this time it tried Turning OFF...Cant understand wat was going ON...it never really Turned OFF... CRAZY

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JayR_NYC Newbie

JayR_NYC

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thats good that you changed the TPS but it still has to be set with a volt meter or your really pissing in the wind, so you still need to do the reset i advised in the second post, and go from there, once you know your sensors are working correctly and the problem presist then you know to move on and look elsewehre.

[/quot

and the thing is that my Throttle body is a New rebuild/ported with all new plugs...i bought on Ebay...like 2yrs back...

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19cturbo Newbie

19cturbo

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can u find video or even photos on how 2 do it....step by step....please...im trying 2 do it myself with the help of everybody here....PLEASE

where is the ISC located?????

 

 

thats about as step by step as it gets.. you simply have to follow the steps and it should cure your problem.. unplugging the battery will reset the error codes, but it wont adjust the tps or reset the sensors, it just clears the codes.. the only way to get them set is to follow the link i gave you.. you should be able to find the isc if your read through it, it tell you where it is located, and im pretty sure gives you wire colors as wel..

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