Vaccum nightmare! please help.

[Boosted_Widebody]

I really aplogize in advance, but ive been searching for hours and getting aggravated. I have a repair manual but its not helping me too well.

 

 

Im needing a diagram of what i can and cant delete when it comes to vacuum lines.

The areas I really need help in is the stock wastegate, the air can lid, and the throttle body.

Then, im confused on where the hose goes on the front of the valve cover? And what and where does the line go from the big hole on the bottom of the stock accordian hose. The 2 holes on the side are blocked off already.

And lastely, I dont need the metal can, just the lid right. Im assuming all that really is for is the smog system?

 

The car is an 89 conquest tsi. Im wanting to delete as much of this vaccum nightmare as possible, as so far havent found anything really explaining, or a diagram showing, what is what...and what is needed and what is not.

 

Please help....im literally on my knees begging while pulling all my hair out. ...sorta like this the past couple days over this mess. like i said, im begging for help.

[Boosted_Widebody]

I also have about 10ft of new hose....so i have plenty to reroute, if....i knew where one end starts and where the other ends.

[BC_99]

You really only need to run about 6-10 vacuum lines for the entire car if you want to delete non essential things like ABS, cruise control, all of the emmisions junk, egr, ect... It all depends on what you want to keep. You said 89, so you should have the 3 port wastegate? 2 of the lines from the wastegate go to the boost sensor thing on the stock aircan and one goes to the intake pipe on mine. the front of the valve cover, Im assuming you mean the top in the front, should be the pcv valve and it goes into the bottom of the throttlebody plate. I think the big hole in the accordian hose goes back into the aircan lid somewhere but I dont have the stock maf setup anymore, so I cant be sure on that one. Hope that helps some.

 

BC_99

[superfasttsi]

Why dont you use a vacuum block? I used one on my sti and loved it. Its real simple go to ebay and buy a 6-8 or 9 port block. then cut ur main vacuum line to ur break booster the big one and put the block in middle of that line. once installed just run ur lines to what ever needs a vacuum line and tada ur done. very simple and clean too

[Shelby]

bunch of panzy waynz's i hear this oh my god theres so many vac hoses i don't know what i'm gona do ,, "shakes head" man up there is fewer hoses on this car when any thing made in the last 30 years

and in the end you'l end up with maybe 4 hoses on it

 

try a honda or mazda rotery with 300 hoses each

[Boosted_Widebody]

well i wanted to keep abs, everything else could go.

 

yeah i have the 3 port wastegate, i kinda assumed the 2 side ports went to the boost sensor on the lid. the top port i was really unsure about. And i thought i had the line to the throttle body plate from valve cover right, thanks for reassuring me of that. Other than that i have everything correct on the firewall. and i believe everything is right on the throttle body with the 3 ports, egr, etc. i dont have an egr block off plate, so i assumed i needed to have vacuum running to that for the time being.

 

I was just worried i had things (mainly the wastegate and maf lid) wrong and scared it would mess things up.

So essentially, if i have these lines hooked up right, the car should be fine.

 

-Boost sensor on the air can lid. Not using the can, just the lid and poor designed maf lol, and plug up the hole on the bottom of the accordian hose, and the 2 ports on the side of it.

 

-the 3 ports are ran correctly from the throttle body, egr ran right, and nipple on intake manifold under throttle body plate ran to valve cover (front) and everything else on the intake manifold/throttle body.

 

-and still confused...but if not needed either plug it or run it to (where?)...the top nipple on the 3port wastegate.

 

 

-and lastely the nipples broke off, so i just plugged the hole....but on the intake manifold right under the thermostat housing there was a sensor type piece that had two vacuum ports on it...i was told it was for the smog system. if im wrong please let me know and what it is so i could try and find that part. nobody around here knows anything about theses cars so im usually only relying on past cars, or starquest searching for answers.

 

otherwise, with the above the way it is...nothing else is needed and can be plugged off and the car run fine i assume?

 

thanks for the help bc_99, thought you might been mad at me for our past problem. I still apologize...

[Boosted_Widebody]

and yes SHELBY, as you are correct about there being more lines on many other cars....it generally easier to find someone who knows about it locally to help you, find a nice repair manual in a local autozone or whatever...

 

Seeing as these cars are owned by the few and the proud. And the fact its not an N/A car...certain things need to be hooked up in the correct place for it to function.

 

So even though youve been on the site for years and have 500k posts....if your just gonna knock on people needing help and not give advice. Try and keep your post count up somewhere else.

 

Even as a newbie to the site, not to turbo dodge, starquest, lebaron gtc's, and many other late 80 and early 90's cars...I was able to notice that this a forum to help people on stock drivetrain and problems...not to bash people for using it with its intended purpose created by the admins.

 

also, hondas have half the hoses these do. mainly because they arent a forced induction engine needing the extra vacuum. I know this because im a mechanic at a honda dealership, let alone every one of my friends own one if they arent driving an evo or sti.

Edited July 12, 2010 by Boosted_Widebody

[BC_99]

No not mad, still got some wheels at a good price. This may help you some also.

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=75476

 

 

BC_99

[Boosted_Widebody]

thanks, yeah that helped ALOT. I found that late last year an printed it...but lost it after i came home from the deployment.

 

really appreciate it!

-joe

[Boosted_Widebody]

So after reading these diagrams, im pretty much set. but two more questions.

 

1. the sensor that had 2 vacuum lines coming off of it on the intake manifold under the thermostat housing broke on me. I couldnt find out what it was so i just plugged the hole. Once reading these diagrams Ive discovered its called a (thermo Valve). Is it okay if I leave it plugged, or do i need the thermo valve? I looked through autozone, advance, o'reileys parts thing and couldnt find anything but the temp sensor. So if i do need this, anyone know a good place to locate it or a part number to order through a dealer?

 

2. When i bought the car the thermostat housing was cracked and mission a sensor that screws into the housing itself. So Once i finally located another housing, i once again went to the autopart stores to find out what sensor it was. There again all they could provide me with was a temp sensor...and this one has a much smaller opening then a temp sensor, and the fact i have one mounted already. So i have plugged this hole as well. Is it okay to leave this one plugged up as well? if not what is this and a location/part number to get it as well. Im assuming its only a one prong male end on the other side since the only wire i have not plugged to something is a single plug female.

 

sorry, and thanks.

-joe

[Shelby]

is there some thing about constructive critizum you do not like , sorry every teacher is not all warm and fuzzy, warm and fuzzy teachers make warm and fuzzy students that have no idea how to handle hard problems when they come up

 

as for vacuum lines in the FAQ you'l find charts showing what you eed to have and what you do not need

 

 

 

also, hondas have half the hoses these do. mainly because they arent a forced induction engine needing the extra vacuum. I know this because im a mechanic at a honda dealership, let alone every one of my friends own one if they arent driving an evo or sti.

.........................................................

 

 

guess you miss'd a few training class's eminsion controls are the same on all cars ,,

 

if you had a few more then 84 posts you understand to make those 30k replys i have had to read over 500k posts , a great many with this same question

and i do not BASH any one ,i may say things that sound harsh but it's for their benifit , life is not all sweet and warm and fuzzy

Edited July 12, 2010 by Shelby

[strang3majik]

is it strange that I have memorized the entire vac diagram for these cars?

 

The useless info one stores in their brain...lol

 

Also, that giant hose on the bottom of the air can is just a drain for water, and it drains into the frame (one of mitsus better ideas).

[Boosted_Widebody]

is there some thing about constructive critizum you do not like , sorry every teacher is not all warm and fuzzy, warm and fuzzy teachers make warm and fuzzy students that have no idea how to handle hard problems when they come up

 

as for vacuum lines in the FAQ you'l find charts showing what you eed to have and what you do not need

 

 

 

also, hondas have half the hoses these do. mainly because they arent a forced induction engine needing the extra vacuum. I know this because im a mechanic at a honda dealership, let alone every one of my friends own one if they arent driving an evo or sti.

.........................................................

 

 

guess you miss'd a few training class's eminsion controls are the same on all cars ,,

 

if you had a few more then 84 posts you understand to make those 30k replys i have had to read over 500k posts , a great many with this same question

and i do not BASH any one ,i may say things that sound harsh but it's for their benifit , life is not all sweet and warm and fuzzy

 

 

i dont mind constructive critizum. as an 8 yr member of the armed forces and 3 time oif/oef veteran i assure you i can handle it. there is a difference in helping someone...in your case, you still have yet to give a helping hand on the topic.

 

and number 2, emissions arent the same on all cars. thats why there is obd-0, obd-1, obd-2 and so on. second, a turbocharged or supercharged vehicle creates more vacuum than an n/a vehicle. that vacuum needs to be routed correctly so the added cfm from the forced induction will work properly along with the combustion process.

 

As my original post stated, i not only wanted to know what i didnt need in the EMISSISIONS...along with what i may have WRONG or may be MISSING on the REQUIRED vacuum ports to run this particular vehicles turbo, injection, MAF, and other such needed things properly.

 

YES there is diagrams in the FAQ's, yet i also stated after searching for hrs i couldnt find the diagram I had once found before. None the less, if you look at the diagrams...it doesnt show you where the wategate lines go, and what and where all the lines go for the air can and lid. Pretty much the most important thing to have hooked up on this OBD-1 vehicle.

 

But thanks for your input and your very helpful answers so far. As i may not have 30k post and read 500k posts...I do spend my time helping others or just not replying if i dont have the answers on other sites such as NICO.com, Turbododge.com, D-series.org, and others im a long time member of.

 

Everybody else...thanks for your help and guidance on where to look. And to everyone else that looked at this thread "as i see theres alot more views than posts" thanks for keeping things to yourself.

 

EDIT:

Also...just to see why people like me ask questions like these, try using our search feature on here or google.

 

Type in thermo valve, or what is a thermo valve and see what comes up.

Edited July 13, 2010 by Boosted_Widebody

[Shelby]

ok so the scearch feature don't work too well,, but the page back feature works just great ,,stop wishing and let your fingers do the walking

 

page 1 FAQ http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=75476

 

i will have to admit tho there are at least 3 diff FAQ entrys that are no longer there

 

 

ok so the eminsions are diff right , not so my young friend,, only the way they are monitor'd or control'd are diff,,

first off EGR valve,, you do not need any of it unless you have eminsions testing in your area,, you can even block off the egr port with a plate

 

do you have the aux air system if so you can remove all that stuff and plug the down pipe hole with a couple quarters under the old fiting

 

the strange device with 2 ports is a thermo valve , use'd for 40 years on cars , you can live with out the hoses to it,, you'l need to find a plug for the hole if you remove it,,

 

on the inj houseing you have 3 ports in a row,, the 1 st goes to the vacuum advance ,and no where else ,, the 2'd is plug'd and the 3'd you can use for your boost pressure gauge

 

the lower port on the out side of the intake is for the heater and air flow control devices so you will need it,,

 

 

the vent or hose on the rear of the valve cover goes to the oil seperator top port,, the one off the side goes into the air inlet boot,,, the 2'd hose going into the air inlet boot is to the charcol canister system leave it as is,,

now the air filter houseing ,, it has a solonid valve and two hoses on the lid,,

 

remove the hoses,, one end goes to the waste gate diaphram, plug the port,, on the rear port closest to the waste gate,, is the 7 lb diaphram,, leave that port open to air ,, this will set up you boost level to 10 lb at all times

 

by the drivers head lamp assy you'l find an electric motor to pump vacuum,, it has hoses route'd from there to the cruise control unit and then along the pass fender to a pressure sensor swt , leave all that

[Shelby]

if you want to find info on a question your far better off reading pri post threads then to try the scearch funtion,, look for questions close to your's ,, this arcive goes back for years so with a little time you can turn up every answer to every question that was ever made,, once you get thru that there the old site arcives you can go thru also

[Boosted_Widebody]

thanks shelby...and yeah i do have emissions here

 

i figured everything out earlier today...another quest on the road.

and i ssure you, this among many many topic are saved in my favorites for down the road.

Edited July 14, 2010 by Boosted_Widebody

[Shelby]

the site has a 7 page long collection of stuff in it's FAQ forum

[Boosted_Widebody]

yeah i was going to take a look at everything in there this weekend when im off...but today i decided to look a the online manuals we ue at the dealership, and i found buttloads of useful repair info i havent been able to find on here or the internet.

 

so..im going to figure out how you post in here or in the faqs and list vids and pics of complete diagrams, schematics, and how to's.

[Boosted_Widebody]

i have 2 other cars but they have the vacuum delete on it by the previous owners when i bought em. and this one "my 89 with 131k miles" had a bunch of stuff mising along with a blown head gasket, missing nuts and bolts, missing both injectors and etc.

 

Today I did everything to the best of my ability going off starquest faq's and SHELBY and BC_99's advice on the wastegate and air can lid. Something still isnt right, I know the car is in time. So im going to give a run-down of the symptoms I had today on its first run. BTW, I have emissions testing here so I cant do a vaccum delete on this one as it will be daily driven, hopefully soon....though that would make everything alot easier and can copy the set-up on my other cars.

 

Okay, starts up fine, idles at 1800 or so rpm. When I remove the hose on the vac advance it drops to 1k with a rough idle...so im assuming thats working right. If i keep the vac advance hooked up and move the distributor untill the idle is at 1k or so rpm, the throttle response is bad and tries to backfire through the intake when revving up. So for now im dealing with the high idle since its smooth though high, and has a quick throttle response and smooth revv while in neutral.

 

Now, the driving symptoms. Its smooth if your giving it about half throttle. When you put it to the floor it becomes rough, though it will climb to about 6k..it just seems like it doesnt have the smoothness and power it should. I hooked the wastegate up like some member had told me, one plugged, one open to air, and one to the sensor which is the 10lb diaphram. But im running easily 20psi. Also while driving if you barely give it gas as if your trying to maintain a speed it sputters and such. When you put the clutch in to come to a stop, the idle goes to about 3k for a min. and the drops down and either acts like its going ot die "500-600rpm" or actually dies.

 

Now im sure most of this is a vacuum problem. But what type of vacuum problem and where its at im not sure. I have 3 diff types of diagrams ive found off this site and printed step by step instructions by members. Another thing im 100% positive of is

 

1. (the main line that runs from all the cans and fittings on the pasenger side, across the firewall, and then over to the throttle body area was cut by the previous owner. I have no idea where to hook that up to, so right now there is zero vaccum going to that side of the car and anything running off that line.)

 

2. ( My wastegate is a 3 port. The vacuum line on the air can lid according to the stock vac diagram on the hood is going into the farthest right port on the electronic solenoid on the air can lid. the port to the left of that one is plugged, since i was told to leave one port open and one plugged on the wastegate i dont have a line to hook to it so thats what i did. the the port coming off the side is the one running to the wastegate. okay, now the 3-ports on the wastegate: there are 2 on the left..pointing left torward the fender, and one at the top pointing up. the one at the top is plugged, the firt one closest to the radiator is connected to the left side of the sensor on the air can lid, and the port closest to the firewall on the left side of the wastegate is open. But im running 20psi + on an aftermarket gauge and i know that is wayy to much for a TBI. Though i didnt hit fuel cut? so im confused on why.)

 

3. ( The 3 ports on the throttle body, the port farthest back is running to my vac advance on the distributor and thats it. the middle port is plugged. And the last port closest to the radiator is going to my boost gauge and only that.)

 

4. ( The THERMO Valve has been removed and hole plugged. The vac lines running around the EGR and 2 sensors on throttle body are all hooked up with no open ends.)

 

5. ( under the air can there is a plastic canister with 2 vac lines coming off of it, when i bought the car those 2 were running to the wastegate? now they are hooked to nothing since nothing been mentinoed about those going to the wastegate i dunno where else they would go.)

 

6. ( Im using the stock intercooler piping...on the hard pipe that goes over the valve cover theres a nipple that was plugged when i bought the car. Its still plugged, i dont know what goes to it.)

 

7. ( The accordian hose...there are 2 holes on the right side of it. Both ports had plugs on them when i bought the car. The bottom BIG port had nothing running to it, and is open to sucking in air...so since i dont know what would go to that its still sucking in air which isnt good since its after the maf sensor. Also, I dont have the oem metal can that holds the filter, so im not sure if something is needed off of that. Needless to say since i dont have that, i also dont have a filter right now since i cant find a filter that will cover the massive and odd shaped maf.)

 

I tried to use my other car for an example of how things should go, but since it has the vac delete and i dont run it for testing i cant use it. I cant go by how the air can lid or accordian hose is on it because the previous owner made a custom intake pipe in place of the accordian hose and installed a K&N filter to the lid without using the can part. There are no nipple on the aftermarket intercooler piping on it, nor on the turbo inlet pipe so im lost. I dont know of anyone thats owned one or owns one around here, auto part stores are lost and cant help me, and only one shop is willing to work on my car and they have had my car for 2 months trying to figure it out....so i drove it home and now on my own with this.

 

Please help.