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3in GM maf and Trans set up...


87conquest_TSi
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wt.... is with this thing? I must suck at life or something. my car runs fine at idle on my stock MAF. Once I install the GM MAF and Tran set up it runbs pig rich. I turn the adjustment knob on the idle set up and it either goes rich or way lean.

Anyone have a base set up they started with? Do I need to turn the car off for each adjustment I attempt to make?

I'm .020 over with a 18g and some other stuff.

 

Maybe I'll just take it to the dyno. I have never taken a car or truck anyplace for anything besides a inspection this frustrates me.

 

I just put the stock one on for now....

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are you running stock injectors???

 

if so you can try my settings.

 

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/BlackQuest/f010.jpg

 

these two settings tell the maft what size injectors your running, the maft is for a 1g car which is a mpi car, so with my 1600cc of fuel divided by 4 = 400cc i think you will want to have the car OFF when setting these. if you have larger then stock injectors just do the same math, add the two together then divide by 4 and then tell your maft those numbers.

 

aux:0

base:2

 

 

these are your tuning settings, just remember that each click takes you 5% rich or lean depending on which way you turn it. each click you turn either has a number or a letter, numbers your going rich, letters your going lean. these three i tune while the car is running and havent had any problems.

 

idle:1 (5% rich)

mid:2 (10% rich)

WOT:C (15% lean)

Edited by cyberquest
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aux:0

base:2

 

these are your tuning settings, just remember that each click takes you 5% rich or lean depending on which way you turn it. each click you turn either has a number or a letter, numbers your going rich, letters your going lean. these three i tune while the car is running and havent had any problems.

 

idle:1 (5% rich)

mid:2 (10% rich)

WOT:C (15% lean)

 

Cyber, base 2 is actually 450cc x 4 =1800 i think. Base 0 is 430cc so it is not a big difference. I know it works for you so leave it alone. Base is just that, only a base. A few clicks one way or the other may help a person get there other setting dialed in.

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i will have a wideband someday it just hasnt fit into my budget yet, i seem to get a lot of my parts thru barter and trade and i just just havent ran across a wideband at my price yet...haha. i would love to have the money to get on a dyno and get properly tuned but its just not in my tiny budget.

 

i am no master tuner by far, but i have been running mine at the higher psi for two seasons now and havent had any mishaps. i also dont run high psi all the time, mostly at the track and nights we are tearing it up around town, normal driving i tame it down to 15-18psi. last season i did get chance to break into the 13s on 235 unwarmed street tires, but not much changes in my car for this season so some fine tuning would probably do me some good.

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  • 2 months later...
Make sure the dip switches are all in the down position. They are located on the block to the left of the tuning knobs. The MAFT can run one of two ways; from an RPM signal, or like a standard MAF. This is determined by the dip switch positions.
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I have a wideband. I'm having problems with my MAFT the green light keeps flashing, = loss of rpm signal. wt.... I thought we didnt run rpm signal????

 

 

you either have yours set up like how dmyers said, or you have the old 1.3 chip. i had the same problem with mine, till i went and got the new 2.2 chip from that one website..forgot the name..lol. but if all dip switches are down. then i would suggest getting the new chip for the maf-t., you shouldnt have any problems after that.

 

 

 

 

Daniel

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you either have yours set up like how dmyers said, or you have the old 1.3 chip. i had the same problem with mine, till i went and got the new 2.2 chip from that one website..forgot the name..lol. but if all dip switches are down. then i would suggest getting the new chip for the maf-t., you shouldnt have any problems after that.

 

Daniel

 

full throttle speed website?

 

As far as tuning by trial and error, it is best to have the car turned off. Someone posted that you should unplug the battery as well. I know when I have played with my settings, I dont notice much of a difference until I stop driving the car for a period (hour or so?) and then drive it again. I have seen several people post that you wont see any rapid changes in performance from changing the dials and that it takes some time to see what change any given adjustment might bring.

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I went with the 2nd gen MAF-t. You can sit in the car and adjust everything. It was worth the few extra bucks.

 

no reason you cant run the 1st gen one in cabin, the wires are a mile long. and once you get it tuned you dont really change it so not much advantages as far as in cabin setup.

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Nope. I just cut mine to like 6" and bent them over and shrink wrapped the ends.

 

I was thinking about trying to use the purple wire that activates the AUX function, but the manual says nothing about the amount of voltage it requires to activate.

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