spooky1 Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 (edited) Well I have the quest swap into my corolla.The car starts fine and idols fine for about 1 minute then gets rough then dies.It will fire right back up again fine.Driving is another issue.The minute it goes to build boost it feels like its being held back and run outta gas past half throttle and all you hear is forced air and smell raw fuel.I have checked for leaks in the couplers and that seems to be fine.The bov has a stiff spring so I dont think its that.Just bought another set of injectors thinking the secondary was shot but still the same.Am I missing something stupid and simple? I usedthe complete FI harness and brain from the quest and did sway with the smog stuff.I am at a loss. I am running a wlbro 255 pump with 3/8 lines,2 1/2 downpipe.Everything in the motor is new.I have been driving it to work taking it easy since work is just around the corner and every now and then it seems to all clear up and run like a raped ape for about 10 seconds the back to crap. Edited December 19, 2009 by spooky1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XCELLST3 Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Well I have the quest swap into my corolla.The car starts fine and idols fine for about 1 minute then gets rough then dies.It will fire right back up again fine.Driving is another issue.The minute it goes to build boost it feels like its being held back and run outta gas past half throttle and all you hear is forced air and smell raw fuel.I have checked for leaks in the couplers and that seems to be fine.The bov has a stiff spring so I dont think its that.Just bought another set of injectors thinking the secondary was shot but still the same.Am I missing something stupid and simple? I usedthe complete FI harness and brain from the quest and did sway with the smog stuff.I am at a loss. I am running a wlbro 255 pump with 3/8 lines,2 1/2 downpipe.Everything in the motor is new.I have been driving it to work taking it easy since work is just around the corner and every now and then it seems to all clear up and run like a raped ape for about 10 seconds the back to crap. Check your return line for kinks or if you are running an aftermarket fpr you may have it set too high...sounds like you have really high fuel pressure and are loading up the cylinders with fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 What is done to the motor or fuel system that isn't stock? Will it rev up in neutral? What MAF are you using? Take the reference hose off the BOV Which ignitor are you using? What year was the donor car meaning which ECU and injectors you have? stock turbo? mechanical or hydraulic rocker arms? Pull on the couplers, sometimes I've seen clamps that were tight but the coupler wasn't even around the pipe You using what spark plugs and when did you last inspect them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooky1 Posted December 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 (edited) The motor is completely rebuilt with new nonjet head.Small 16g turbo.3/8 lines to the tb and i believe 1/4 on the return.255 pump.It will rev up in nuetral but gets choppy and congested.Using a 1g mas.Using all else from a 1989 quest.ngk spark plugs and wires.http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z246/nutcase4life/ddhhddhh.jpghttp://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z246/nutcase4life/100_3199.jpg Edited December 19, 2009 by spooky1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 A few more questions, looking at the intake manifold, I see you have the single wire clipped to the sensor in the thermostat housing, you don't need that its only to turn off the a/c compressor when the coolant very hot I can't tell but it looks like your thermovalve is still there? You have some wires with the ends taped up and I can't tell which they are, you have them to a sensor in between those two mentioned just above. You have another sensor we can't see because of the dipstick and it comes in from the top, do you have that one? the end is oval on the plastic end and that is the CTS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy larry Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 spark plug gap to wide......? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy larry Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Cool car man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooky1 Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 all the plugs are plugged in besides 2 rectangle ones at the end of the fi harness behind the tb.There was no place for those to plug into im guessing those were connected to relays or the chassis harness.Not sure what a thermovalve is but i didnt take anything off of the intake besides the egr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Sounds like either a bad injector clip or one of the fuel filters. I had a similar problem ended up being a bad injector clip. After installing my walbro 255 Had a similar problem. One of the filters from the tank to the pump were clogged by a loose piece of filter. If would run fine then then stall or wouldn't want to rev up. Clean the injector connectors with high grit sandpaper then try checking the fuel filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 (edited) The spark plug wires shouldn't be all touching each other and zip tied together like that. They need to have a space between them so when they are firing at high rpms there isn't any chance of the spark jumping to another wire for a shorter path and the intended plug doesn't fire. Not to say since those are NGK wires but its not a good thing. The coil, I see three wires from it. I'll guess one is ignition switch power to the +, the - going back to the ECU and the other is the tach? You eliminated the noise filter and the resistor so you might want to add those both back its not going to hurt. If you get a dirty tack signal back to the ECU that's the same as a misfire but for the injectors. What brand of spark plugs you using? What is their heat rating? The BOVs, those things seal to that pipe with those tiny set screws that have a point on the tip and then there is some oring inside the BOV to seal on that tube from the OVCP? Does that thing wobble at all? If it at all moves it is leaking badly that oring barely seals when it fits tight and is lined up. The internal oring is there in the end of the BOV to seal on that tube right? Unplug what you believe is the secondary injector, does it still start up and idle? Your TPS is working? I don't see an air filter on the end of that MAF, is it just not there and you put it on afterward? IT MUST HAVE AN AIR FILTER. The opening end of the MAF, is that honeycomb tin foil still there? If not or its mashed the MAF is junk. There can't be dirt, mud, oil anything in there that will effect the signal that it puts out. The honeycomb part is to straighten out the filtered air and then it passes over some plastic looking things in the middle so to stir up some turbulence. Just after those on each side you'll see a screen looking thing and behind those on each side is an emitter and a receiver for a light beam and if those are dirty then no it won't see the turbulence in the air so you get a crap signal. If the air isn't straighten out it gets a crap signal, if there is no FILTER it gets a crap signal from all the dirt in the air. This signal from the MAF is the only thing the ECU needs to fire the injectors and how to do that and its the most important sensor under the hood and the most misunderstood. The ignition signal is just from the distributor and it has both mechanical and vacuum advance/retard and the TPS has the purpose to tell the idle motor to come on, enrich the fuel on accell or cut it on decell and the CTS is just so the ignition timing is a little advanced when cold and some more fuel is added in. IF your injectors are the wrong size the MAF has no way to know this, if the fuel pressure is off the MAF can't know this, if the injectors are dirty the MAF can't know this, if the CTS is bad or isn't connected or has the clip for the temp. gauge unit on it then the MAF can't know this, if the base ignition timing isn't set correct the MAF can't know this and the result is that all these changes and things like wrong cam timing and wrong throttle settings end up throwing a MAF code and then you hear about all these "bad" MAF sensors. I've yet to ever see a "bad" MAF sensor. The plug to the CTS, the harness end had a molded rubber boot and usually the boot is broken off but the end remains. The terminals inside that rubber part may be loose, the plug shakes on the car and when cold that tells the ECU a jumping signal that both effects the injector pulses but when cold the ignition timing is jumping around. Make sure that plug has the terminals in the end of it tightly connecting to that sensor. Edited December 20, 2009 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooky1 Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 OK the injector plugs are new.I just went out to the car and unplugged the secondary injector and started the car.Ran perfect and reved up all the way without bogging.The second i plugged in the secondary,it started boggin when i went to rev.I went to drive it around my house with 1 injector and just feathering the gas it worked well until i gave it more gas obviously then it would die.Once it was warmed up it wouldnt rev up with 1 injector plugged in so i plugged in the secondary which then would rev up.Does this give any more clues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 www.witchhunter.com or some place like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooky1 Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 I think I found the problem. I took the return line off and tried to blow into it and it was locked up tight.No air going through so I think the lines pinched somewheres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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