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1989 TSi Not Running

holeysocks

By holeysocks,
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holeysocks Newbie

holeysocks

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Hello:

 

I have a 1989 TSi.. Engine turns over but will not start does not even try ,I bought car not running and I know car was being driven and quit(I know this for sure) I have checked and best I can tell.,it is in "time"..Piston up and rotor about 10:30 position, Judging by timing light I have spark,I have sprayed carb cleaner into metal pipe in front of Throttle body and got no change .. What next ??

 

Please help!!! I really would like to drive this car

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rcm Contributor

rcm

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If your spraying carb cleaner directly into the tb with pipe removed and it doesnt start you either have no fire

or compression.Remove plugs and lay all on the valve cover,have someone turn it over and see if you have all plugs firing.

Make sure you are starting with new plugs because they can fuel foul easily.

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rcm Contributor

rcm

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Use ngk bpr7es-11 gapped at .035.The fsm has it .039 to .043.Check fire first with new plugs and then can go from there.
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holeysocks Newbie

holeysocks

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Ok I am 99.9% sure it is in time.Pulled valve cover and cam pin , timing mark and distributor all line up.I have to spark to # 1 Plug,but need to make sure I have spark to all 4 ,Headed in the right direction I hope!!any suggestions
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RobH Newbie

RobH

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don't buy those BPR plugs, get NGK part #7031 and save yourself one headache.

Agreed put the right plug in to start and that will be one problem you wont chase your tail on

 

just make sure before you put them in that the ones your taking out are not fuel soaked like a hung open injector just dumping fuel or you will 1 ruin the new plugs and 2 chase your tail because you will think there new it cant be the plugs

 

have you checked you fuel pressure yet if so what is it and does it hold pressure for the specified time?

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holeysocks Newbie

holeysocks

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It may be a blown head gasket,but I was trying not to think about it,,,LOL Cam Pin is the roll pin in the cam gear,,from what I understand if # 1 piston is at TDC and distributor is about 10:30The roll pin in the can gear should be at about 12:00 and that is where it is..Fuel pressure I do not know about it this point I have just sprayed a little carb cleaner in TB with no results.

Thanks for the Help

Edited by holeysocks
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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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Since the PO had the engine die on him and you really don't know what he tried to do to it to get it running, I'm going to assume, for now, that compression is good; the "T" chain did not jump a tooth; and you have verified that ignition timing is correct.

 

Well, lets start with the basics. You stated in your OP that you have spark as evidenced by your timing lite flashing but spraying carb cleaner into the TB doesn't help fire the engine off.

 

For now, pull the clips from the fuel injectors. Keeps from getting fuel and fouling plugs and gas into the engine oil as you are rolling the engine.

 

Let's see how strong of "spark" the coil is sending to the distritor. Pull the coil wire at the distributor and put it very near near a clean engine part, but not touching, and go to start on the ignition switch to see what color the spark is.

 

Is it yellowish or orange colored? Coil or it's electrical connections have a problem. Is it hooked up correctly? See FSM page 8- 142 schematic for proper electrical hook up.

 

Is it bright bluish looking? Coil is good.

 

I am assuming that the dash tacometer needle is twitching slightly as the engine is trying to start.

 

Pull the distributor cap and look at the pins. Are they crusty or erroded? Does the distributor have evidence of tracking between the pins? Is the distributor cap cracked? What does the contact surfaces of the rotor look like? If any thing looks crusty replace it. It would probably be a good idea to replace the cap and rotor anyway.

 

Next let's check the spark going through the wires to the plugs.

 

First of all let's make sure that the plug wires are hooked up correctly in the distributor. See FSM page 8-152 for proper routing and location on the distributor cap.

 

Next, go to Harbor Freight/AutoZone/Pep Boys and buy a Inline Ignition Spark Checker - it's only about $5.00. Here's a link to one http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/inline-ignition-spark-checker-4424.html Hook it up and see if you have spark to each of the spark plugs when trying to start the engine. I like to use the checker cuz it keeps me from getting ZAPPED :wacko: :blink: with the spark when checking plug wire spark to the plug.

 

No or weak spark indication - then there is a problem in the distributor or the plug wires are shot. I have used NGK PN 8079, 8 mm wires, with excellent results. Here is a link to 'em http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp

 

OK now let's check the fuel system. But what was the condition of the plugs that you replaced? If you can, take some pictures of 'em and post 'em.

 

Look at the metal connectors of the injector clips that you removed above. Are they corroded or crusty looking, is the rubber boot crusty and cracked? If so the clips need to be replaced and their wires need to be soldered and shrink wrapped during replacement. You can get the clips from Randy http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html or PQ in my i-x.net link below.

 

Next lets check the primary and secondary injectors for resistance. The resistance must be less than 3 ohms.

 

See this link on how to do these checks http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=902&sid=5207b94ef2d30d7fdbd54f36ecf82614

 

Assuming that the injector connectors are cleaned, lets reinstall the clips on the injectors & test the installed injectors.

 

Let's check the fuel pump to see if it's operating. Go to FSM Page 14-60, Illustration "D" for the location of the fuel pump test electrical connection. Hook a jumper wire from the battery Pos terminal to it and open the rear hatch lift up the carpet and the cardboard deck to determine if you can hear it running. If it ain't running then it's either shot, a electrical connector to it is loose or corroded or you have a bad/corroded #2 fusible link in fusible link box 2. See FSM page 8-102 through 8- 104 for location and description.

 

Now disconnect the fuel pump jumper wire and have someone try to start the engine - could you hear the fuel pump running? If not, then the ECI Control relay part that sends power to the fuel pump went bad - see FSM Chapter 14, pages 14-16, 44, 61 - Illustration "R".

 

Fuel pump running? Now with the OVCP removed from the TB, shine a light into the TB bore and see if there is any weepage or leakage from the injector tips. If you have any then the injectors have to be removed and sent out to be cleaned. WWW.witchhunter.com is a good place to send them to.

 

No weepage or leakage - then disconnect the jumper wire to the fuel pump test elec. connector and stuff a clean rag into the TB bore and go have a beer or two. :) After the beer pull the rag out of the TB bore and see if there is any evidence of gas on the rag. If so them then you have a weeper. Send it out to be cleaned & tested.

 

If you don't have a weeper, now we'll see what kind of spray pattern the primary injector is spraying. Disconnect the spark wire from the coil to the distributor. Hook the injector clips back up to the proper injector. ;) Have someone try to start the engine and look down the TB bore to see what kind of spray pattern the primary injector is spraying as the engine is rolling. It should be cone shaped. If it ain't, send both of the injectors out for testing & cleaning.

 

If you don't have any fuel coming out of the primary injector above while trying to start the engine, and you heard the fuel pump running before, then there is a problem in the fuel delivery system to the TB. Look at this link for how to go through that system. http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1031

 

If the above corrected your problem, dump the engine oil, replace the oil filter and put in a new load of engine oil.

 

After you do the above and you still have a starting problem then we'll go on from there. ;)

 

BTW - How long did your Lady sit inop before you bought it? And are there ANY mods to it? How many miles are on your Lady?

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

Edited by Starfighterpilot
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holeysocks Newbie

holeysocks

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Thank You Ken for your HELP..

Now let me answer some of your questions..if you read my earlier post ,by what I have learned here,the car seems to be in time,,if it has slipped 1 tooth I am not sure how much that would have changed the above,,I mean,could I see a 1 tooth slip looking like I am ?? bought a new distributor cap and rotor today.it will be the weekend before I can try them..Wires look new.I also bought a compression tester and a spark tester today..Again this weekend,,plugs are new

 

First let me say.. I did not by my Conquset because it was a Conquest..I bought it because it was $850.00 and I wanted a small car to drive for better gas milage.It was listed on Craigslist for $1000.00 not running. then it was gone turns out that the guy who owned it sold it to his younger brother..The Brother owned it about 4 mos and did not have the money to have it fixed( he is in High School I think) so the Dad call me and ask if i still wanted it i offered hime $850 and he took it..then I started doing some research and fornd out want I had bought. the car has alot of mile 284000 but it seems to be in VERY good condition..body and interior are very clean,,I have some pictures I will post

 

Thanks to everyone again I will need lots more help I am sure :rolleyes:

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Indiana Newbie

Indiana

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Check compression first, its easy and you need to get those wet plugs out because all that time you have been cranking on it, if the fuel was being sprayed they are all wet and won't fire. This could have a stuck injector, a dead injector, a dead fuel pump, clogged filter but if I was guessing I'd say its got a cracked head and if it did start it would be blowing smoke or the gasket is blown. It could have a stuck lifter and a valve not closing you're going to have to check compression to find that out.
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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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FSM = Factory Service Manual ?? where do I get 1 I find Import Service Manual a 2 volume set green cover? wow $50.00 is that it?

 

Here is a link to the FSM and the parts Catalog

 

http://www.starquestgarage.com/

 

Here is another link about the Starquests that should help you with the rest of the car.

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=66449

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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Indiana Newbie

Indiana

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Gasket blown out the back. Go order you a Felpro 8770 or get a Ajusa one but you need to look at cleaning the deck and making it flat, check out the engine build thread at the top of the forum in regard to the sagging decks that cause gaskets to blown before they should.
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Hoosierquest Newbie

Hoosierquest

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I think its easier to leave the manifold's on, and you shouldn't have to remove the front cover to pull the head. Just don't forget about those two small bolts up front. I would send the head to a machine shop and have it checked out. Chances are its cracked.too. check your deck for straightness too.
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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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PM or call Randy (Dad) to give you some cost estimates at what you are looking at cuz he does head repair work everyday. He is a very helpful guy and knows his stuff. He won't steer you wrong.

 

Here's a link to his website with the phone number. http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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