Professor Quest Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 First Pictures at www.ENGINEQUEST.COM 1-800-426-8771 You want to see BSE kit BEK156 $15.72 OR BEK157 $42.83. (comes with gears and "C" guide) Timing chain set with gaskets TCS068 $54.72.   Auto Zone/Advanced sells DYNA  GEAR 76046 $26.99 for BSE and you need 7051 "C" Guide $18.99. Timing-Chain set complete, no gaskets, 76032. $49.99           Car Quest, Napa, Checker, Shucks, Kragen, sells CLEVITE........BSE Kit 9-4188S and the "C"guide...........9-5051  Timing chain set complete, no gaskets 9-4131SA   About $80-$100 for most kits (except NAPA) Using a O-ring NOT DESIGNED FOR THIS WILL CAUSE LOW OIL PRESSURE NAPA parts cost MUCH more. Fel-pro pan gasket...FPG-OS30400A $7.99  Fel-pro Timing cover set FPG-TCS 45170 $8.34 Mitsu cam dowel pin MD021219 Mitsu oil pump gasket  MD191432 $3.99 (never use sealant) Mitsu oil pick-up O-ring MD068388 $4.80 (silicone) Mitsu T-chain tension "DAMPNER" MD084945 $2.83 (began use in 87, highly recommended) Auto Zone loans tool #27119 to drive in the plug. Just a wheel bearing race tool. Install pics: http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 It has come to my attention that you can screw this up. There is a sequence to follow and the BSE kits don't come with any instructions. So here you have it......pics at http://starquest.i-.net/viewforum.php?f=12 1. With the oil pump removed.....install the replacement shaft, from the rear of the oil pump, in the TOP HOLE, with the the "D" shape sticking out of the back of the pump. 2. Install the retaining bolt (the one you removed) and hold the "D" shape with a long 10mm wrench or long cresent wrench. Torque to 50 lbs. 3. Chase or clean ALL 6mm holes in the front of the block and the all the bolts. 4. Install new Mitsu O-ring on pick up and oil it and the reciever in the pump. The O-ring is a tight fit. Place gasket on the back of oil pump. NO SEALANT. 5. Install oil pump being careful to align it with the pick-up O-ring as you wiggle it over the pick-up. Do not install the "C" guide yet. (2 lower bolts) It's OK to TWEEK the pick-up mounting brackets a little to do this but tweek them back. Make SURE you have the RIGHT BOLT in the RIGHT HOLE. Very easy to blow this. 6. Oil pump bolts are torqued to 8.6lbs or some common sense. NO LOC-TITE. 7. Install both gears and the chain. IMPORTANT!: MAKE SURE THE KEYWAY IS ON THE LOWER SHAFT OF THE OIL PUMP!! 8. While holding the TOP BOLT (the one you just toqued to 50 lbs.) with a 14mm wrench, Torque the lower bolt (make sure the teeth on the gear are closest to the oil pump) to 50 lbs. If you use Loc-tite on the 6mm bolts and then have to remove them........you stand a good chance at snapping them off in the block. The factory didn't use it and neither should you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
re45115 Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 OK Professor, I've got about 140K on my car and engine has never been touched (but, it hasn't been abused, either). Right now, I'm catching up on some maintenance items. Its about time to eliminate the BS and replace the Timing chain (heavy maintenance). BEK157 & TCS068 should do it? If I drop the pan, I'll need the MD069800 o-ring. Am I correct that BEK157 doesn't have an oil pump gasket but other BS Elim kits do? Also, you don't appear to have any faith in the aftermarket OP gaskets in the BS Elim kits? I'll probably start this project in about a month when the wife is in Europe on business and I'm trying to line up the ducks. Thanks Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 I suggested that site for PICTURES ONLY. Some kits have an oil pump gasket like ROCK. And your right, they suck. If you have to order an O-ring, Spend $3.70 on a Factory oil pump gasket IF you need to. The BEK157 comes with GEARS for $42.83. the other kits I mentioned do not. The guide is also offer in the BEK157. There is NO SUCH THING as a "complete kit". If there was and I built it........it would have ALL the gaskets and the O-ring. Â Some guys say 'Give me the complete kit' and they go home with the balance shaft parts as well. The parts I listed are WHAT YOU NEED. Hence, the guide is seperate. But EngineQuest goes a little futher with the gears and the guide as a package. The other kits will not. Most gears are still good. But EngineQuest sells both T-chain set and BSE kit for $97.55 which is a pretty good deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzStar Posted March 9, 2004 Report Share Posted March 9, 2004 I just got done with this process. I had intended to get a BEK-157 but couldn't locate one so I got a BEK-156. What I bought.. 1-Valve Cover Gasket 1-Timing Cover Set (gasket and crank pulley seal) 1- Oil pump gasket 1- Oil pan gasket 1-BEK-156 which had 3 parts Bearing plug (looks like a big solid main bearing almost) Shortened Chain Replacement short shaft for oil pump. The Oil pan must be loostened to pull the timing cover. So if you are going that far, drop the sway bar off the car and drop the whole pan. I had to put a jack under the trans bellhousing to lift slightly to get the pan to clean and come out but didn't have to undo any motor mounts, exhaust etc. The BEK-157 includes two placement gears and a small guide. However if the existing gears and guides are in good shape you don't need these. The BEK-156 worked fine for me. Take care in pulling the timing cover (two bolts go down thru the head into the cover.. you have to move the distributor to get to one of them) so you don't mess up the headgasket which extends out there and seals between the head and the cover. Also some of the bolts that hold the BS Chain guides on are a bit long for reuse. (they held both a chain guide for the Timing Chain AND a BS Chain guide) The bolts are shouldered but I didn't like having the long bolt kind of "hanging" around. So I replaced the bolt with a shorter one. With the radiator out of the car, the BS will come out without problems. We did have a problem with the installer tool becoming stuck in the bearing plug ... but other than that it was pretty straight forward. Oh.. the oil pump gear uses a "key"... be sure not tro drop it. There is one on the Driver's side BS as well, but since you don't reuse it no issues. Trying to line up the crank gear and oil pump gear with short chain and slide them all on etc is a bit of a challenge (especially if the key keeps slipping on the oil pump) but it is doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyin_By_YOU Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 wow, thats gonna come in handy. thx for taking the time and posting. i am gonna be doing this very soon and wasnt sure how big of a job it was gonna be. i see it will be a weekend thing for me probably. maybe this should be in the FAQ? ERIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzStar Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 I think it is in the FAQ or something similar... Like anything it is a matter of knowing how all the other stuff comes and goes that really saves the time. Since all the accessories have to come off... since I've been thru that mess a couple of times.. I can get the pwr steering pump and bracket, A/C and bracket, alternator and all belts off the motor relatively quickly. I also have some air tools a buddy. <G> But to do it well... I would leave yourself a whole day at least. Don't over look the fact that you will want to clean the pan, and cover when you take it off.. have to scrape gaskets.. etc. Might want to check what your sway bar bushings and end links look like. IF they are worn they are relatively cheap... get new ones as well. So when you drop the bar, you can put the new stuff on when you stick it back in there. Also if you have problems holler.... Prof and others helped me.... I'm sure they will help you... ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted March 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Nice job Az. Let me throw in some stuff. Using a tool to drive the "plug" does not have to go inside the "plug". A flat surface works just as well as long as it's OD is larger than "plug". Â CRIMP the key into oil pump with pliers so it stays in place. And.........Az reused his oil pump chain tensioner cause they didn't have the BEK157. But you can buy that tensioner for $10 at Auto Zone. That's the 7051. Â Or 9-5051 at other stores. A little extra silicone where the front cover gasket meets the head gasket is a must. (in manual) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
re45115 Posted March 24, 2004 Report Share Posted March 24, 2004 Why, in the FAQ http://www.starquestclub.com/index.pl?boar...;num=1018413478 do I need to oval out the mounting hole in the lower guide for adjustment? Â Also, could I get an opinion on whether the (optional) washer in the bolt @ 1:00 is desirable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted March 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2004 Sorry, don't read FAQs. Shiming the "releive spring" is pretty much a waist of time. It will increase cold oil PSI alot. But when the oil is hot............pretty much does nothing. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
re45115 Posted March 28, 2004 Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 I'm in the middle of this now, and, having just dropped the pan would like to ask a question. How could anyone only lower the pan and have any confidence the pan gasket would be any good when they bolted it back up? Of course, my gasket had been on the car for 17 years. Any tricks, tips for getting the timing cover off without letting the water pump hit the condensor. I guess I'll leave a couple of loosened bolts on the cover when I start back up tomorrow. I'm not in much of a hurry since I won't be able to put the car back together until a couple of parts show up Monday or Tuesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted March 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 I'm not sure i follow. You would never use the oil pan gasket twice. If I had used a new one, and had to take it back off...............I would get a new one again. Who told you to reuse a gasket. And yes, the pan must be "prepared" before you put it back on. Some guys bend them taking them off. I take off the water pumps just to check them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
re45115 Posted March 28, 2004 Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 Professor, In the FAQ (which I know you don't read), it says you don't have to drop the pan -- only loosen the screws and lower it (of course take out the screws into the timing chain cover). I'm assuming, by the above statement, its meant that you can bolt the pan back up without taking the pan off and regasketing. I don't see how anyone could do this without totally dropping the pan and regasketing after cleanup (without fear of leaks). Just lowering the pan and breaking the seal destroyed my gasket but I was planning on dropping the pan anyway. I needed new swaybar bushings and links anyway. 136K and 17 years tends to do that to bushings. How do you bend the pan taking it off? A little too much force or frustration? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted March 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 I read the FAQ just for you. I better PM you before you OVAL yourself into a new motor. ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 28, 2004 Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 nothing is ever the same for all ocasions,,i have drop'd many a pan and bolt'd them back up with no leaks,, but once in a while you will have a problem, especialy if the pan was already leaking a bit if your doing a bal shaft elim, you have to drop the pan, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted March 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 TRUE! Damn good O-ring. But REPLACING it with an "off the shelf O-ring" is a problem and for $3.70, and the work involved...............you'll sleep better at night. Lotta low oil pressure out there. This O-ring is suspect! At least you can say you were warned. ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted March 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 Sorry, Shelby. Thought you talking about reusing the O-ring. Reusing pan gaskets? You must have hands like a Surgeon. ;D I never reuse a gasket that has been "CRUSHED". Even if the motor was never started. But that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 28, 2004 Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 like i said i have done it,, i didn't say for every one to do it ,, what an experiance'd mechanic may do is in no way a go ahead for every one to do,, we have learn'd what will go and what will not over the years,, and Professor i agree do not reuse an oring,, but if you aren't removeing the bal shafts you have no reason to mess with the oil pick up seal to begin with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted March 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 Oh I've done the "OH CRAP!" too. Put a pan on and realized I forgot something. ;D If it was a "late nighter" I probably used the gasket again if the silicone was still wet. But once it dries.............I usually end up cutting it with a razor blade no matter how hard I try. Am I one the wrong topic? I thought this was about BSE kits? ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 BTW................the S or the SA after the part number means it's a SET!! I made a TYPO in a part number. It has been corrected now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted April 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 Recheck your numbers and I thru in some prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 a little mention about the oil pump drive gears,, these gears are real bad for wearing and if your not an experiance'd mechanic you may not know what to realy look for, so i'd sugest you replace the oil pump gear just to be safe,,many guys have try'd leaveing the old gear only to have it fail with in a very short time, the price of the gear is not worth the going back and doing it again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted April 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 Right you are Shelby! That's why the BEK157 is a better way to go and you need the "C" guide that comes with it too. I read in a FAQ that someone said to "Oval out the "C" guide hole to put more tension on the chain. I don't know about that. That chain CAN go from 40 below zero to 240 degrees. Just let the GUIDE do it's thing. It is on the "Tension side". That was a clever idea but it could BACK-FIRE on you. If the chain should be tighter, they would have designed it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted April 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 BTW..............The BEK157 is the last part pictured on the FRONT page of the site. The BEK 156 is the same part WITHOUT the gears or the guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Quest Posted April 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2004 Auto Zone has a TYPO in the price of 7051 guide. It should be $18.99, they sell it for $8.99. Hey................10 bucks is..............10 bucks LESS! ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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