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Member Since 22 Feb 2008
Offline Last Active Jun 24 2020 03:32 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: D2 Front Coilover Prep COMPLETE tutorial

24 June 2020 - 03:19 PM

I just bought a set of these and wanted to post a few observations:

My set came with zinc planting instead of powdercoating on the front tubes. This still needs to be removed before welding because the fumes are toxic.

The front coilovers are 12.3 lbs and the rear are 12.25 lbs. This is without the spindles which after being cut for me were 6.6 lbs.

The spring rates out of the box appear to be 8kg/mm and 6kg/mm although they don't have any documentation. The front springs have 11.5-180 written on them which is the wire diameter x the free length of the spring. The rear spring is 10.5-205. (these numbers are from memory)

I see that someone said their set came with dyno plots, mine did not. They came set to full hard.

I went to disassemble them and actually broke my 5mm hex socket, so the installation torque on the front camber plates appears to be fairly high. I was able to remove the rears. I weighed everything I could individually to estimate sprung versus unsprung mass but have it on my other computer so if someone actually wants to see that post here and I'll try and remember to dig it up.

My initial calculations indicate for what I'm going for I need 11kg/mm front springs and 9kg/mm rear springs however I'll get some more data from the car and revise these numbers accordingly. The challenge will be finding swaybar options.

In Topic: D2 Coilovers and camber plates 2019

24 June 2020 - 03:06 PM

I just picked up a set last week from a vendor on ebay (vex motorsports I believe) and they arrived with the front tubes zinc coated. Please note it is important to remove this zinc coating as mech shows in his photos as zinc is toxic to breath when welding. Also, I'm assuming the lower portion of the spindle is cast iron or cast carbon steel. If this is the case the general recommendation is to pre-heat this and let it cool as slowly as possible. Also welding in short 1 inch spurts is recommended to avoid cracking. Lastly, I left 28mm (measured from the back side) and will use 3 button welds spaced 120 degrees apart. I put a hose clamp on the tube and marked it with a sharpie so my cut would be straight for anyone who's OCD like me. After removing the oem paint from the spindle with a wire wheel on an angle grinder I found the tubes slide on with a few thousandths of play. I don't think there is supposed to be a press fit so they may have just got the factory tolerance spec wrong when they spec'ed out their tolerances. My plan was to use some shim stock to make sure the parts are completely concentric before welding.

I already installed the rears and for anyone who is curious I left 56mm between the top of the lower black lock collar and the bottom of the lower purple spring perch lock collar. This left the fender about 1/4" above the top of the tire (I'm running 245/50/16's on my SHPs, not 45 series).

In Topic: My 4g63 and t-56 swap (TONS OF PICTURES

14 June 2020 - 01:28 AM

I weighed the car today, unfortunately it's a lot heavier than I had hoped. 2676 lbs without fuel, driver, coolant, steering rack, steering rack ecu, timing belt, crank pulley, water pump pulley, water pump belt, alternator belt, and an exhaust heat shield. I estimate it will be 3070 fully laden with driver. The weight distribution should be 49/51 with a full tank of gas though shifting to about 51.5/48.5 as the tank empties. I'll weigh the car again once it's running but I guess I added quite a bit of weight (***cough t-56 cough***)

In Topic: My 4g63 and t-56 swap (TONS OF PICTURES

07 June 2020 - 07:09 PM

I got the impression based on the circuit diagram for the 1g dsm that the transistor pack creates the tach signal, not the ecu. In any event I was able to create that circuit with a fairly simple circuit which replicates the signal. I still need to figure out the speed signal circuit but I have a feeling my test bench is creating the issues more so than my circuit design. Based on the information I have been able to collect on the VGS rack it appears to be fairly stand alone. I'm thinking that worst case scenario I would make the system manually operated in a "set it and forget it" manner for a given track/driving day. I believe I have all of the components to make it work like the OEM system on the s2000 except for the wiring harness plugs for the high current circuit on the controller for the rack. Unfortunately they are unique to the VGS cars. All of the wiring is done now except for the steering rack though so at least there's that. I am in the process of rebuilding the rack I got as there was some damage to it and I wanted to better understand how it works. Unfortunately there are quite a few specialty tools needed to fully disassemble it so I won't get it all the way apart. Something is better than nothing though.

In Topic: My 4g63 and t-56 swap (TONS OF PICTURES

23 March 2020 - 05:09 PM

I've been working on this somewhat regularly now and the car is actually fairly close to being done. I put break in oil in the engine and primed the oiling system. It took about 7 quarts which was surprisingly high but I guess given that it was 100% dry and I added a fairly large oil cooler it's possible. This was about two weeks ago and it hasnt leaked anything since so I feel pretty good about it. The main things that are left are some wiring (albeit a lot less than before), the steering, and the seatbelts. I was finally able to buy a jdm s2000 steering rack however when it arrived here I discovered it is a vgs version instead of the standard version. That may make things more difficult.