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87chrycon

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  • Posts

    131
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Omaha, NE
  • Gender
    Male

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  • Website URL
    http://

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    68164
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    Other
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Majorca Black
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. Read my signature for details on what is on the car. Has some rust in front of both rear wheels and behind passenger rear wheel.. Rust free patch panels for the rust forward of rear wheels in my garage waiting to be welded in. I need surgery on my hand (14k), no insurance.....need this gone ASAP and will need to be towed.... Can here it run if your local. I am an enthusiast to keep these cars on the road, but if nobody wants the whole car, it's getting parted cause my hand is way more important than this car, sorry just being honest. pics coming soon when i get back to Omaha (Monday)... Leaving my # for serious inquiries only...402-980-2447. If your not wanting to buy it or parts do not call me!!!
  2. thanks for the #'s jolyrogr, and thanks for ALL the insight from you Indiana--including vouching for the performance of the jet valves if someone takes maintenance seriously.....I known these were developed for a reason and lack of/neglect of regular maintenance makes them prone to failure.....My cousin bought a quest new in '88 and kept up with all the required maintenance and sold it with 179,000 miles back in '03 and never had any trouble with ANYTHING other than the power antenna! I think that after getting the head off and checked at a local/reputable machine shop I am in for more decisions than I was ready for! If the head is not cracked I'll keep it and will use JVE kit and go from there or buy a new one without the tapping provisions for JV's.....either way I will blend cc bowls, OS stainless valves, schneider HD springs, new valve seals, new stock cam/rockers, and "port matching" to manifolds.....hopefully this will give me some minimal power gains.....
  3. Checked my oil today and found the "MILK" that everybody dreads--did not overheat, so it is very recent--have not driven it more than 15 miles at once in 4 months.....Engine has 82k on it and may be up for some lower end work as well--if so that will come later as my datsun is absorbing funds now. I will be doing the head gasket replacement myself and just wanted to ask a couple of questions about top end improvements before going forward with removal/replacement....I will have the block decked/head checked for cracks/warping when it is apart.... 1. will a port and polish/3 angle valve job yield any decent power gains with stock throttle body? Or should i buy a better casting and start there? 2. should i replace standard valves with the stainless 1mm o.s. ones? And what brand valve seals to use with these if I go with them? 3. surely i should use new/heavier valve springs required with o.s. valves? what brand as well...? 4. who makes a better than stock head gasket...? I've heard the ajusa was decent a couple years back but are they really any better? I figure this is enough questions for now, TIA for any replies....
  4. I have a grill laying on a shelf in my garage somewhere....if you want it let me know what you'll pay. I don't need it so if i can make a $15 profit that works for me.....
  5. Most widebands will come with detailed instructions on WHERE TO mount and WHAT ANGLE to mount at.....follow the instructions and it will last a good amount of time. If you skimp on the installation it will foul quicker and will not give you accurate readings on your A/F ratios......
  6. Sorry it's been so long but I've had family health issues to deal with and the winter weather has been CRAPPY......, to make a long story short it snowed about 5x (about 3 feet total) since I posted and I have not driven the car--sucks when I have to put it in storage.....but it is warming up this week and I will get the shroud off of it and see what happens when it gets cold out again.....I may put the clutch fan I have on, and reinstall the OEM t-stat as well but I will do these all seperately so I can seperate the feedback I get from each mod......sorry about the wait but I don't drive it in the salty s*** here in Omaha! I'll try to get an update on this over the next week or so...... The flex fan is loud but I have 3" turbo-back exhaust as well......and the exhaust is NOT quiet. To the guys that are constantly knocking the flex fans......My cooling system is a 10 out of 10 as the radiator/hoses/clamps/sensors etc. are all new or in perfect working order--they've all been bought by me or removed and checked by professionals or myself......I removed the electrics because I don't trust the (old) wiring on this car and someone on here wanted to swap me a shroud and clutch fan plus give me $50.00. The car never overheated to begin with I just made a change because I wanted to--and I wanted it to be quick. If I wanted a 300+HP conquest or starion I'd go the cheap route anyway and put a Chevy 350 4-bolt in it. I don't need an extra "race car" as my V-8 Datsun will outrun 95% of ANYTHING that I see on the road--I wish it had a flex-fan on it so I could talk some crap but it has dual electrics......I would be surprised if anyone could tell me how much HP on average an engine loses when replacing electric fans with a flex-fan anyway, anybody know the answer to that......?? Just my 2c.
  7. ATTN: moderators... if you want to move this to advanced virtual mechanic please do....I thought I posted it there!!
  8. OK, so i searched for an hour trying to find the topic that i followed a year ago when I installed my flex fan to replace stock electric fans. I wanted to add this information to that topic so people would have this info at their disposal but came up empty on the search. Here is a not so brief description of what I did and what I have found. I have removed and replaced the stock electric fans with a flex fan and spacer right on the water pump/pulley. I have a fan shroud from a conquest that ran a clutch fan installed on the radiator for "guiding" the air through. The flex fan is installed as a puller meaning it pulls air through the radiator. In hot summer temps I love the performance, stock temp guage never exceeds 1/3 on the guage. Runs very normal temps and my (AEM)wideband shows that the stock 88 ECU (car is an 87) that i use is recognizing warm loop and fuel mixtures are right on (14.0--15.3 and searching for stoich). Last year when I did the swap to the flex fan/shroud, I never drove the car in cold weather as I stored it for the winter (and I did not have a wideband operating for fuel information). Now that I have the wideband operating and I have driven the car in the freezing cold temps (15* F), I have noticed that the car is warming (slower traffic) then returning to cold loop (stock guage clear down by the C) when hitting the interstate. This may not seem like a big deal as it is better to run cold than to run hot but it is causing the ECU to recognize cold loop and add fuel and creating a rich condition way too often. My wideband is often showing 10.0--11.0 fuel mixtures. It is eating gas like crazy and killing my mileage, not to mention if you run rich constantly it is going to thin the oil out as the mixtures will get past the rings and eventually engine damage can occur from the rich conditions and diluted oil. So there is an update to a thread I could not find. Just my 2c of information for those running these mods. If you do not have a wideband and you are seeing below normal fuel economy, colder temps on guage, this could be the problem. I will remove the shroud this week and see if that keeps the temps warm in the cold weather. I will also update this post with my findings after removing the fan shroud.
  9. I think I remember someone GIVING a set of 7's and 8's away in the for sale forum recently??? might want to check that out.
  10. Anybody in the KC, Des Moines, or Omaha area need one of these?? I can accept delivery in Omaha, NE at my warehouse (business address).....I am definitely interested but would like to save others any $$ if/that I can......my email is drmalcolmx@hotmail.com if anyone around here would want one of these....I will wait a maximum of 2-3 weeks before I have one shipped here. Thanks for putting together this option for us Scotty....Thanks, Dale M.
  11. anybody else out there have one of these to cut out and sell? need one ASAP!
  12. Anybody that is waiting for pics, I will be emailing them to those that requested them on Saturday....too many hours at work this week, sorry about the delays.
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