88 Conquest TSI Starting the rebuild

[natallica]

Hey Guys,

Just bought my wife and I's first "Quest" in about 16 years. Back then, I had an Silver 87 5spd and she had an 88 Red auto We traded them off for a slew of unwanted, un-loved cars and have regretted it ever since. I've been snooping the forum for a few years now looking for our "Unicorn" so my dad helped us out with the $1200 (as a gift) and I bought this a few weeks ago from a guy here on the forum (you know who you are).

I was told it simply had a "rod knock" and it hasn't ran in a little while (...might I add, 'conveniently' the TB was taken off of the car prohibiting me from trying to turn it over because it was getting "rebuilt" )and not in the original post with the pics. But like an idiot, I assumed (knowing what happens when I do this) that was all that was wrong, we decided to take a 6 hour road trip to Ohio pick her up. I thought I'd have a few bucks and some time putting her back together, just enough to drive it around and eventually make a few upgrades and at some point, a color change.

 

Well, last week I had some time to finally start disassembling it and I found out the hard way that I'd been had! Bear in mind it's far from a total loss, but my "little" project just got a heck of a lot larger.

 

The motor and crank wouldn't turn at all, completely SEIZED. Pistons 2 and 3 were completely devoid of of any oil at all and were rusted to the cylinder walls, therefore had to be beat out with a hammer handle. Two sets of bearings were ground into bits and emulsified, laying in the bottom ring in the oil pan along with an unidentified bolt (not from the suction tube bracket) and all of the other bearings were burnt and "sharpened" on the edges. The "squirters" weren't clogged and it appears the oil pump was working . But somehow this occurred. I'm not sure if the guy I bought this from did any of the work on it (new timing cover, valve cover, and water pump)...but it appears to me that I have to become somewhat of a regular with "DAD".

 

I have hopes that this will turn out O.K, but only time will tell. This forum has given me so much knowledge and resources that I don't think I can lose. And yes... I know I shouldn't have proceeded with the purchase if the 'signs' were bad but I learned a valuable lesson...don't have too much faith in the overall honesty of people, and don't assume that because it looks good on the outside that someone didn't run it like a "raped ape" on the inside.

 

On a positive note, I guess a "thanks" is in order for him being so kind as to "knock" a whopping $200 off of the price, probably knowing that I'd have 4 times that amount in fixing the botch job, whoever was responsible! Not to throw him under the bus, because I don't know for sure...just sayin'!

 

Next step is to have the block/crank checked out and gone over to see what I'm in for next...then onto pistons, gaskets ...yada yada yada. Fingers are crossed though.

 

Thx in advance to anyone with assistance or comments

[AutoBodyGod]

I don't know how much you paid for the car with a trashed engine, but I will tell you that car is worth every bit of $1,200 as a roller to me.

[natallica]

I don't know how much you paid for the car with a trashed engine, but I will tell you that car is worth every bit of $1,200 as a roller to me.

 

 

He was askin $1200.00 and I got it for $1000. I needed the other $200 for the Uhaul transport and White Castles Don't get me wrong it's in pretty good shape overall. I'm excited to get her running again but I really wasn't hoping for it to be as trashed "mechanically".

[AutoBodyGod]

It's a nice looking ride, at least you will have a good piece of mind knowing the engine will last a longtime going completely thru it.

[natallica]

It's a nice looking ride, at least you will have a good piece of mind knowing the engine will last a longtime going completely thru it.

Thanks man, I'm hoping that everything goes as planned.

[Jnm]

I just pulled a running motor out of my 88 quest

 

It has a rod knock, that's why it was replaced. But it ran and drove, under 2500 rpm, top end sounded good.

 

Only the bottom end was loud, a new crank and bearings might be a cheap alternative for you rebuilding the whole motor.

 

I'm in east pa

 

Lmk if you are interested. Good luck with build, I just restored my 88 too.

 

Joe

484-358-3787

[natallica]

Thx Jnm!

But after getting excited finding a rebuilt long block on Marshall engines for around $700.00 (only to find out that the website wasn't updated and they have none of those anymore ) I've had no alternative but to bite the bullet and drop the block/crank etc. at the machine shop to have "the works" done to it. Then onto "Dad" and Rock Auto for some other stuff. In the interim... I'm gonna try to get the engine bay cleaned up and get some connectors re-soldered and shrink tubed and vaccuum lines replaced, and hopefully give her "the BLUEs" in there, so it's one less thing when it comes time to paint the outside (as cash-flow allows). May do a "tranny overhaul" as well, now is the time I suppose.

[natallica]

IT'S ALIVE .... after a few months I finally got her tuned in. Today was the first day she started and actually idle'd (around 750rpm and pretty smooth) Looks like my engine rebuild was a success (Thx "Dad" and the local NAPA)

 

I had a few small issues: like distributor being off a tad, some vacuum lines missing or disconnected, a little "flooding" here and there, Oh... and neglecting the OVC pipe when trying to start .. but all in all, pretty fun experience. This is my first rebuild, so I am so thankful for the wealth of information available to me via SQC and the FSM. Sincerely guys, I could NOT have done this without your opinions, experience and guidance. Just wanted to let you guys know that another one of these beautiful rides have now been resurrected.

 

Next is some minor "ding" removal, windshield replacement, the typical air dam repair and choosing the new "blue" paint color. Really want to go with a Metallic Cobalt color as opposed to Fiji... Thoughts?

 

-N8

Edited December 27, 2010 by natallica

[Cloud81918]

congrats, sound like a lot of them are experiencing a rebirth this year.

 

My '86 was $1200 ride too. I was told it had a vacuum leak. I fixed the leak and it still ran poorly. It turns out it had 2 jammed hydrolyc lifters, a fail distributor, bearing surfaces on the cam and head were destroyed, TPS was bad, turbo was blown, injectors were leaking all of the sturts were bad. All is close to resolved now, the car is nearly back on the road. It has been a money pit, but nearing the end I'm pretty happy. I have a uncommon car that will turn a few heads and isn't just like someone elses. The car get a lot of attention, just sitting in my driveway, I can't wait to drive it.

Edited December 27, 2010 by Cloud81918

[pc85]

...

 

Next is some minor "ding" removal, windshield replacement, the typical air dam repair and choosing the new "blue" paint color. Really want to go with a Metallic Cobalt color as opposed to Fiji... Thoughts?

 

-N8

 

As far as blue, the darker the better. Glad to see another Quest kept alive. Any pics?

[natallica]

As far as blue, the darker the better. Glad to see another Quest kept alive. Any pics?

 

(date on camera was wrong)...DUH!

 

Newly cleaned injectors (Thx Witchunter) and now... a nice smooth idle.

Still need to tweak in a few things and do another TPS/ISC reset to dial things in a tad better.

 

Also some more DIY powder coating to finish, but so far I've done the valve cover "metallic blue" and it turned out great, also did the hood latch plates, battery tray, water pump, crank pulley, firewall plates (wiper), heat shields (need to install) and more.

 

Also has balance shafts and jet valves eliminated, Bored .030 over, HyperU pistons (don't worry, it's not going to the track...ever ) "Dads" reconditioned stock rods, *DM Downpipe and brand new rotors/pads and calipers. New Raybestos sway bar end link bushings front and rear, and a new Duralast Battery.

 

I guess I've done a pretty good job...considering this is the first vehicle I've ever fixed up and rebuilt, Aside from custom painting my daughters 6HP 65 Mustang GT500 GoCart.

 

Like I've said many times, I could not have done it if it weren't for all of the help that you guys provide.... KUDOS!

 

 

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/100_2773.jpg

[pc85]

That's a beautiful blue!!! Love the metallic way better than Fiji. I might even use it for mine, Cobalt metallic?

[Fuzzydicerule]

Damn man, looks awesome, you should loosen up the Oil cooler and the AC condenser and paint the front of the core support though, that appears to be the only not blue area and stands out...

 

Or grab some sheet aluminum and make a cover panel, My friends dad has one on his 1969 mach 1 (between the core support and the grille)and it really cleaned up everything under the hood, probably aids in cooling a bit as well

 

I believe someone on the forum has done one as well, but i cant for the life of me remember who...

[natallica]

That's a beautiful blue!!! Love the metallic way better than Fiji. I might even use it for mine, Cobalt metallic?

 

@ PC 85

Thanks man,

I cleaned and primed the engine bay while the motor was out, and the "blue" is the Metallic FX stuff that Advance or AutoZone has with the shiny lids. They have a Metallic red as well. I want to pick a House of Kolor or PPG that closely matches even though it wont be "exact", the color under the hood from the factory is very seldom the same.

 

And the valve cover I powder coated myself with the Eastwood Hot Coat system (work awesome). It's just a metallic blue as well but matches almost perfectly. I also PC'd the Hood latch, crank and water pump pulleys, and water pump the same blue and it looks sharp. Also the OEM OVCP I did with mirror chrome (after this pic was taken) and it looks sweet too. I highly recommend picking one up if you have an old oven to use with it.

 

@ Fuzzydicerule

I'll probably take your advice on the cover panel, I used to do ductwork for a living so I'm no stranger to doin' sheet metal work That would look great!

 

Thanks for the compliments guys, can't wait to get her finished and back on the road!

 

N8

Edited February 9, 2011 by natallica

[natallica]

Well, she's finally tagged/ 4 new Dunlop Direzza tires, running (about 85%) and back home now in our driveway.

 

Still need to figure out why I don't have back-up lights (then obtain PA inspection), and once I pull out and get up to speed (which works well), why she doesn't downshift/accelerate pressing down throttle... get's loud and "bogged down" but other than the small body work and then Candy Blue respray, she'll be perfect! May have to pay StarquestRescue a visit here soon

 

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01182.jpg

[natallica]

Well guys, I got a little tired of looking at those dull, spider-veined ugly rims that most of us are cursed with and decided to do a bit of needed maintenance on my rims. I followed Burtons instructions (and added the use of a $40 Eastwood polishing kit) and stripped the clear using Mar-Hyde Aircraft stripper then started on the spokes with 220-1200. The ring polished up nice only using 600-1200. Still need to attend to a bit of rash around the outside but all in all I think they turned out great. Also resprayed and cleared the inner spoke with a metallic gray dupli-color. Until I can chrome dip them, this will work for me. The whole process took around 2 days, but could go faster if I had more experience...but I decided to take my time. See what you think.

 

Thanks to all of the tips and tricks from you guys on here, it's because of you the Quest looks this good.

 

Next, on to HOK Candy Cobalt Blue paint.

 

Before:

 

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01196.jpg

 

After:

 

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01197.jpg

 

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01200.jpg

 

-N8

[natallica]

Over the weekend I finally got to install "most" of my Tokico's, still missing the machined "top" nut for one of the front inserts ... but when I get that it's smooth sailin'!

 

I removed all of my old stuff (which was completely shot) and took the newer shocks/struts and bead blasted the springs and insulators and hardware and powder coated everything black and silver (even touched up the Tokico's )

 

Pretty happy with the results, and compared to before...she's ridin' like a Cadillac. Now all I need is a set of Trilogy's and possibly a new exhaust and she'll be ready for paint! Thanks Helrazr70 for the hookup on these, best $100 I've spent on her yet!

 

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01437.jpg

 

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01436.jpg

 

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01434.jpg

 

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01443.jpg

 

-N8

[natallica]

I've been able to recreate the buttons and middle panel layout for the AC controller at my place of work, and I've created "cosmetic overlays" for replacing the flaky chrome and the worn up and down and fan control buttons. There are many guys here on the club who could use something like this so I decided to give it a shot.

 

Below are pics and a "How-To" of the procedure that I went through, along with photo's of the actual kit that I'll be offering up to SQC within the next day or so. This procedure does not have to be done exactly the way that I have done it. After investigating how to create this and make it work I found that it is very difficult to recreate it "exactly" so that it looks 100% perfect. There are going to be differences in how the end product looks, depending on how much care you take in the preparation of the item.

 

DIsclaimer

 

*I assume NO responsibility in ANY damage done to your controller if you choose to do this to yours, I am only offering these (and this walk-through) as an inexpensive cosmetic replacement to old worn out buttons. Apart from finding a brand new unit (which is impossible) this is the only option that I can think of, so if you think you are mechanically inclined enough to dismantle and scrape glue and metal and clean surfaces...then by all means grab one of these kits. It's relatively easy to do if you take your time and be thorough in the prep, you should be happy with the results.

 

Step 1:

Once you have the controller out of the car, remove all of the screws from the circuit boards, and CAREFULLY remove them from the faceplate (paying special attention to not bend or break the long wired square LED's)

 

Step 2:

Remove the "floor/face" and "fan speed" buttons from the backside of the faceplate (this aids in later removing the clear overlay in the middle)

 

Step 3:

I started with coarse sandpaper, but later decided I needed a tad more "elbow grease" to remove the flaky metal surface so I used an Xacto blade, scraping from right to left being careful not to go deeper than necessary (the deeper you go, the more it will show ) These buttons are backlit but the pattern is molded into the plastic, so try to remove all of the metal all around the words and or images in that area to ensure no metal will show through the new overlay decal. Do this for each of the silver buttons.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/P1000468.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/P1000471.jpg

 

 

Step 4:

Next, using the back of the Xacto knife I poked through the rear of the face plate (in the "floor" location) pushing through lifting the corner up to grip it from the front, then SLOWLY work your way around the perimeter with a fingernail or toothpick until you can lift it all the way off. It will ruin the print work by removing it, but you'll be replacing it with a new one anyway... then proceed in removing the tacky black gummy glue. I used a citrus based glue remover that we use at the graphics shop, similar to Goo Gone, it doesn't harm the plastics... that being said, stay away from chemical based removers with solvents! With a small squeegee and a paper towel I was able to remove most all of it. If you leave any behind it will cause a waviness to the new overlay so clean up all that you can.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/P1000469.jpg

 

Step 5:

The inner film should be applied next, it has a double sided adhesive with a release liner. Remove the release liner, line up one edge, start with one side down and work your way across to the other side keeping your eye at the top and bottom so it goes on straight.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/P1000474.jpg

 

Step 6:

Be sure to clean any surface with alcohol before applying any of the overlays, this helps remove all of the oils from the goo remover and your fingers then begin to cut the silver button overlays into separate pieces. Start applying those also...it is easiest to line up the side with the LED cutout first, that way it is right over the bulb and as long as you are straight on the side it should be fine. Press down with firm pressure working your way from one side to another. to ensure there are no air bubbles behind it (if you get one they can easily be popped with a pin, or you can try to lift it back but you may damage the decal...it's your call)

 

 

Once your finished it should resemble a new one. I understand there may be a slight waviness where you had scraped the metal off but I didn't really have any other way to remove it. Like I said before, it's not going to be as perfect as a new one unless yours flakes off easier than mine...after all it may turn out better.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/P1000475.jpg

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/P1000480.jpg

 

Lemme know what you think guys. Feedback is always welcomed!

 

-N8

Edited December 7, 2011 by natallica

[natallica]

Now, personally I have an '88 so I'm creating this walk-through is for anyone who purchased my "Steering Control Overlay Kit". I wanted to post it on the forums but I wasn't sure where it should go...so here it is:

• You begin by removing the control unit from the steering wheel (I have a donated unit from D_Venable so I'm not sure how you'd remove it, it looks like it's only a few screws so it should be rather easy).
  

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01578.jpg

• Once removed, take the unit apart from the rear. It should be only a few more small Phillips screws (3-4) and carefully flip the circuit board back out of your way and begin removing the buttons.
  

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01580.jpg

• Button removal requires a small flat screwdriver (or like device) and carefully press in on the outer tabs, after they are pressed in, push the center point in so the button falls out the front, I only did this to ensure I didn;t break the clips off (20+ year plastic is quite brittle so again...be careful) I didn't find removing the copper contact was 100% necessary but if you wanna lightly sand them while your in there... go right ahead
  

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01579.jpg

• Once all of the buttons are removed, it is now time to get rid of the flaky-ness. I used 200 grit sandpaper (all I had close-by). Holding each button by the rear, I slid the button back and forth (parallel) across the paper until all of the lettering was gone. Once it's gone I would recommend using a higher grit paper (600-800) to make the new surface as smooth as possible, this will aid in the overlay sticking better). Depending on the condition of your controls, you may still be able to see the words once the silver is removed. My theory is: years of those little bulbs shining on the plastic has discolored it somewhat... it shouldn't affect the look to badly once the overlay is in place. Heck, you may be able to through some colored film in the rear of the button or use a translucent hobby paint on the bulb itself to change the output color. I haven't tried this myself but it may just work...try it out and let us know.
  

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01581.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01582.jpg

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01583.jpg

• Also, I used and Xacto knife to remove the outer edges around the buttons, the leftover metal was a little sharp once the face was removed (be careful here too, mine were very brittle on the corners). This may be a good time (if you choose) to grab some Testors Silver model paint (or like) and go around the perimeter to cover anything that may show...remember, the overlays only cover the front, not the sides (how detailed you get with this is totally up to you, if it we're me... and I already had it apart..I'd go for it. Also be sure to clean all surfaces with Isopropyl Alcohol before placing decals, finger oils will cause the adhesive to fail.
  

• After that, I snapped the buttons back in (be sure they are right side up, they almost fit upside down but if forced, the clips may snap). I designed these so they could be place right on so everything should line up perfectly...if not you may have to cut out the offending button decal and place it separately...but it's not likely. Peel the backer off of the decal and line up the two openings at the ends where the 2 grooved push button are and "eyeball" across the whole layout before touching the surface, once it's aligned...press down (semi-firmly) on the decal rubbing across being sure all of the buttons are stuck. Then carefully and slowly, remove the clear application tape (pull back at a 90 degree angle onto itself, this helps minimize lifting. You may see them lifting up as you remove the clear film, using a finger nail hold the down as you pull back with he other hand. Once the film is off press firmly on all of the buttons for maximum adhesion.Just like anything else, they will only stick as well as the prep underneath.
  

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01593.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01594.jpg

• Finished product (once you remove the film ):
  

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01595.jpg

• Notice the outer edges where I stripped the silver off, that's why I suggested painting those edges earlier. In these kits I've also sent along a small piece of metallic silver vinyl for the bottom. All I did was, peel the release liner off of the back, holding it by the ends line it up right under the buttons and lightly stick it to the front, rub all the way across the start rubbing it down around the bottom edge and trim the edges off. Should be pretty easy, but then again I work with vinyl everyday so I'm used to it.
  

There ya go guys, I hope that this was helpful, and I really hope you guys enjoy your product. The 87 steering controls were one of the primary reasons I bought my first Quest. I like the look of 'em, but not when they go flaky. Let me know what you think of them.

 

 

Thanks

 

-N8

Edited December 30, 2011 by natallica