Okay so I'm at a debate with some people about what kind of fluid to use in the manual trans in these cars...... Factory oil was called diaqueen and ppl say it's the same as gl-4 80/90 gear oil which after contacting mitsubishi I found out that it is nothing like it. The diaqueen is actually a hypoid oil..... Thinner and is compatible with synchros and yellow metals. Everybody says to use sta-lube gear oil but if you read on it it shows it's for (nonsynchronized) transmissions. The km-132 trans

I was just given a 1996 Volvo 850 2.4l (bummer it's not a turbo) station wagon a few weeks ago. It was about to go off to the crusher as it was overheating and had dropped a ball joint which also wrecked the driver's side CV axle. I had the car towed to my house where I put on a new water pump along with hoses and a thermostat. I found out the timing belt had been replaced recently but whoever did the job didn't do the pump. Really?http://volvoforums.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif I then

Drilling concrete without a proper hammer drill SUCKS.     All I have is a cordless hammer drill with lipo batteries that don't last long. To top it off this concrete has been here since the early 70s and it's SUPER hard. The demo guys that replaced my front walkway spent 3 hours trying to remove a 6'x3' section. I need to drill x4 1/2" holes for inserts so I can bolt my hydrolic press down. I killed 3 batteries and haven't finished 1 hole. This is gonna take forever.     /end rant

Its pay day, and the rear end of my car is bouncing all over the place.   I have eibach lowering springs laying in the garage. I just need the shocks and struts.   I'm thinking of getting the shorter/stiffer front and rears from mookeh, simply because its bolt on and affordable.   Though, I could never find a straight answer about the modded rear housings they sell.   Do I just buy the mr2 inserts and gland nut?   Anymore modifying needed?   If I do the mr2 inserts for the rears, are the fron