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Im figuring out a european 88 narrow body and stumbled upon a wierd coolant gauge behaviour. Right below the thermostat housing on the intake manifold are 2 temp sensors: 1 acutal sensor with a T shaped connector 1 temp switch with just a ground connection Here is what I dont understand: The coolant temp gauge needle only moves if the temp switch is closed. If the switch is closed, the temp gauge needle instantly jumps as high as it goes. Even if the engine is stone cold and I short the switch to ground, the same behaviour occours. Im pretty certain that the T shaped connector is for the coolant temp but Im beginning to doubt that. I will install an aftermarket temerature gauge just to be on the save side because I know that too much heat has some pretty bad effects ion these engines. Can someone explain whats going on?

Provided by: Preludedude Link Reference to the original post for more information: http://www.starquest...ic=148972&st=20 There is no adapter for 1/8" NPT female TO 1/4" BSPT male.. IT HAS TO BE TAPPED... This what I purchased today... Northern Tool store: 1/4"-18 NPT tap...cost $8 http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd461/Preludedude1/photo%201_1.jpg The fitting come from Hydradyne..its a store with fittings for hydraulics/etc...Cost only a dollar or two...I is a 1/4" NPT male TO 1/8" NPT female...My 1/8"npt elbow fits right into it... http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd461/Preludedude1/photo%202_1.jpg Now I need to remove the fuel tophat and tap it...Ill post back in a few days with pictures when its all said and done...

I didn't see a good option elsewhere, so here's the deal. I paid to have a cover panel set up and made, and the CNC design is ready to roll out more for you guys. Prices include what they charge, shipping (around $5) + $5 each to me for gas money to pick up & ship. This is a must if going with Autometer or other aftermarket gauges that don't fit our stock gauge console. You can eyeball and cut one out, but not exact if keeping the turn signals and warning lights working. I'm not making money on this, just want to forward the good fortune of having a buddy that does CNC on the side for reasonable time & materials cost. For those replacing the stock gauge cluster with Autometer or other aftermarket gauges: 1/8" thick, CNC measured & produced black plastic or aluminum 2 bigger holes = 3 3/8" (for tach & speedo) and 3 smaller = 2 1/16" cutouts for turn signals & 9 warning lights on bottom to show clearly. No extra holes for mounting screws/rivot/etc - rear mounts for aftermarket gauges will hold it in place. Would be a great pairing with Outcast Horizon's Radio (what I'm doing ) kit: http://www.starquest...el#entry1088773 PRICING: $55 shipped for black plastic. $100 shipped for each aluminum. more $ for hand polishing of alum too, or could CNC a brushed pattern into the alum! powder coating available for a small price add-on (will get quote if interested) $5 off ship for each additional since they'll go out together. Ex. 2 plastic is $100 shipped, one of each $150, etc. This WILL require some cutting of the stock black plastic gauge front panel and white underlay as this panel will simply cover them, fitting snugly over top. I WILL be documenting the process of installing Autometer gauges with this panel, to show where to cut what, and which wires to use, eliminate, etc. DATES AND PAYMENT: Open for more orders. Please POST what you want here so we can hopefully combine orders when this gets bumped Send Paypal to: mstieg@gmail.com and INCLUDE your SQC NAME & what you ordered with Paypal $$ sent (in comments) so I know who is paying for what. Once received, I'll put in the order & keep you updated. Depending on their availability of material and time, these could take a week or two. (since this is a side job for them, which they are cutting us a great deal on). Any questions please ask!! BLACK PLASTIC: 1. taeisallin - paid & shipped 2. BOHO - paid & shipped 3. Sotty -paid & shipped 4. Conquestech - (2) 5. MTQuest - ALUMINUM: 1. Creakyjoints - (no 5 gauge holes unless notified otherwise) - paid & shipped 2. Skillz - paid & shipped 3. AustinTSI - (center boost gauge hole 60mm) - paid & shipped 4. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/Gauge_Panels_both2.JPG http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/gauge_panel_3.JPG Another angle to show thickness 1/8" http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/gauge3.JPG

The one behind the gauge cluster.....

GP OPEN: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=136703&hl= ^ ^ ^ Details in new thread. ^ ^ ^ http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/Gauge_Panel_1.JPG Overlapping the stock molding, as will be installed: http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/gauge_panel_3.JPG http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/Gauge_Panels_both2.JPG

So here is my list of all my upgrades, yet I still can't get a constant 14.4 nor even a constant 12 volts. Even if I turn off everything at times the car takes forever to charge up, or if the headlights are on it will only show 10 volts. Maybe you guys can help me decide what to do next.. Charging: 4ga ground from alternator to engine block 6ga piggyback wire from alternator to battery for increased charging capacity (with fusible link) dual factory sized fusible links on charging harness from alternator to battery (going to a single 12ga fusible link with the single 6ga charge wire next) Note: When car first starts power shoots to 14 volts. if I turn on lights, heater, radio and everything it comes down to 12. If I sit at a light with brakes lights on it may drop, it may not, if I sit at a stop with a turn signal it will start to decrease, but nowhere near what it used to, the surge of the blinker is almost unnoticeable now. Note: driving with radio and all accessories off did notice the voltage fluctuate when I hit a bump..? this is random and it's not by much Note: driving at night with lights on will cause voltage to drop, driving at 2k rpms will sometimes recharge the voltage, sometimes faster then others, sometimes it hangs at 10v for a mile or two Stereo: 4ga wire from battery to-- 100 amp inline fuse after battery to-- 4ga wire to 1.25 farad capacitor to amp-- 4ga wire from cap to inline 100 amp fuse-- 8 ga wire from 100 amp inline fuse to amp amp is grounded with 8ga--cap is grounded with 4ga to the bolts that hold the electrical device in front of the spare tire.. Note: Sound system seems to be in perfect order with almost no/if any power surges under bass. Ignition: cleaned up ignition switch-- replaced hot wire from connector to switch with 8ga wire soldered in on original terminals(yes it fit) Note: this made my lights brighter, my wipers work faster, the turn signal surge almost disappear, blinkers blink faster, heater blows harder.. Added: 35w 6000k VVME HID kit, I am now HID spoiled Removed: AC condenser pusher fan (it was burned out and suspected amperage draw) Coming soon: Blower Fan replace (Heater seems to draws a lot of power, normal maybe?) Rad fan replace (old motors can draw high amps if they are worn and on their way out) thinking about: CS130, maybe even CS144 mod Secondary battery in trunk (Maybe just replace front with bigger in the back in Battery box) Overall my charging and electrical is working top notch, when it works correctly. With stereo turned on full blast it will hold 12v for a good while. I have gone through every ground on the car IAW with PQ's write up. I'm thinking my alternator is questionable but hate to replace it with another OEM and get another headache in a few months, opinions on this? since I can't get a bracket for a cs130 I'm working on manufacturing my own next week, but I can't take the car down except on sundays and it has to be back together come monday morning. I am also thinking of going to a big blu marine Optima in the trunk either as my primary or secondary battery any opinions on this? I'm thinking of going to a CS144, same size as a CS130 but I can get it in 140amp size with the iceberg case cheaper than a OEM alternator so I may do that, the camaro is currently apart for preps for the season so I will be using the CS130 out of it for building the bracket. I guess if anyone can think of a wire I missed or a terminal I should clean let me know so I can work these gremlins out. Thanks in advance.