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1983 Mitsubishi Starion x Chevrolet S10 2.2 Engine Swap, JERSEY ARTFORM on YouTube. Chevy s10 2.2 engine swap x 83’ Starion - pt.4 Chevy S10 2.2 engine swap x 83’ Starion - pt.1 Chevy s10 2.2 engine swap x 83’ Starion -pt.2

Hey everyone, I'm Brandon! My bad in advance if I write a novel here, I tend to get carried away when it comes to cars and going fast. Anyway I've been cruising the forums here for a few months now trying to gather as much information as I could before I finally pulled the plug on my dream project. Ever since I was in high school I have wanted to own a Starion. I seriously think it is one of the best looking cars made to this day and I longed to own one but I was enveloped in my past addiction.... Mustangs! I had an S197 for years and made it into a beast of a car. I showed it, I raced it, had it in SEMA a couple times, and even drifted it. Drifting is kinda my current obsession (hence the name) I was doing it for fun for a few years before I moved away to attend college. So now I've had to step back and focus on school, of course with the occasional messing around in the rain and track days. I do plan to get back into in hopes of competing in Formula Drift one day. With these current goals of mine I new my current car had reached its potential as a drift car and I could simply not afford to run it. So to everyone's surprise I sold the car I once said I was gonna past on to my kids one day and decided what I was gonna do. I was ready to finally get serious and buy a starion but there was a problem, I have been driving American V8 cars all my life and couldn't see myself driving a 4-banger. I loved the look of the body so much but just wanted to put a gnarly motor in it. After talking with many people (mostly Convette) and looking over build forums I was confident in my goals and well, I bought a SUPER CLEAN 1988 Starion in Oklahoma for a steal (I live in Texas when i bought the car ). Then shortly after I bought the drivetrain out of a F-body Camaro in the hopes of building the ultimate drift sleeper keeping my focus on drivetrain and chassis, while ignoring the outside for now. For now this is gunna be my daily driver and also take it to local open drift days but over time I plan to really build this thing using John's (convette) car as an inspiration. Right now the surgery is underway. The new motor is currently put in along with a whole new floor, role cage, custom tunnel, and many many other things. I'm super excited about this whole project and also hope to take advantage of all y'alls advice and knowledge as I am truly a newb to this car and the LS platform. I also really wanna thank John (Convette) for all his help so far as I've probably been texting him more then a stalker ex girlfriend. So this is my build thread. This project was suppose to take 10 weeks but like anything custom that didn't happen. Its coming up on about 8 months now but its about a month away from being done so I've been racking up the pictures waiting to put a thread together. The car is currently in Texas while Im living in florida but I am moving back California where the car will live and be driven daily. This is what I got http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f223/carsmart28/IMG_1128_zpsd38e0b14.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f223/carsmart28/IMG_1131_zps88ebd931.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f223/carsmart28/IMG_1150_zpsf563fbe3.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f223/carsmart28/IMG_1157_zps90b4af79.jpg

The drift spec shift lever is here. First off the Drift Spec lever is long and strong for when you are about to get the friction on!! This means less time wasted moving your hand from the steering wheel to the shift lever. Be fast! Save that hand for what we all know you really use it for. Pervert! http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_20150424_205341.jpg Next up Drift Spec natural rubber boots flex like mad...no fighting those hard rubber boots! http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_20150424_205526.jpg Now Drift Spec upper cup ditches the steel and uses Nylon infused with plastic. Less weight and less friction means more speed. Think about it , why do you think skinny people can run so fast? http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_20150424_205416.jpg Then drift spec true plastic construction pivot bearing lets you live the race with eyeball popping action!! Seeing is believing! http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_20150424_205504.jpg And last but not least is race bred technology spring loaded pivot action put you in the driver seat for smooth shifts and fast lap times!! http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_20150424_205427.jpg Disclosure: This is a low miles D-50 lever. It is longer and it does use a plastic upper cup where the Starion uses a metal one. The pivot assembly is also longer and move the main pivot up slightly (short shift) However the extension piece is the right length to engage the Starion/Conquest KM132 perfectly. This will bolt right up and go. Price is $100.00 shipped

TOYS! So a few months ago in the depths of the great winter of death, I got bored and decided to paint up the Starion body I have had for years and actually buy an R/C car to put it on. I think it came out pretty close to the real deal and it was like a flashback to Jr. high, which was the last time I messed aorund with the R/C car stuff. Here's the details: Body: Spice Starion widebody. Modified Spice JZA80 light buckets. Chassis: Tamiya TT01-D, full Yeah Racing aluminum suspension makeover kit Paint: Tamiya standard black, painted the body on the inside but also on the outside to give it the matte look of the real car. This is how to do matte on lexan. Fake carbon fiber sheet for the hood and light covers. Access: HPI body accessory kit (intercooler, muffler, mirrors) Wheels: SpeedWayPal Slide Master mesh w/ drift tires, painted with same Duplicolor on the real ones. Probably could have cleaned the windows lol. Car is filthy, it basically just sits now... http://scontent-a.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpa1/t51.2885-15/10354531_1419260001686305_2060983090_n.jpg http://photos-g.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xfp1/10413924_507897802674790_856616402_n.jpg Real car below. http://photos-g.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xap1/1390077_499253563504374_860164980_n.jpg Anybody else got one of these Spice bodies hooked up?

Im looking for a Starquest in the Chicago land area im looking to spend about $3500 max looking for good running car 87-89 in year must be manual and would be great to find a MPI or 4g swapped starquest .i have owned 3 starquests and including a sr20det swapped one im looking to get back into the starquest game once again its been about 4 years from the last time i had one thank u

Now I know this is a little far out but what dream isn't right.? So, for the past few years I have been really captivated by the grip/drift scene.. More recently though rally and auto x has really been overwhelming my thoughts. I've looked into the requirements + restrictions associated with rally and they are very much within reason to my surprise. Anyway what I'm getting at does anyone here have experience, knowledge, or tips on operations to get started? (aside from being well funded) There is a rally school in Washington I found which will most likely be in my future and I'm sure to learn much more about things. . But, as of right now I'm taking in as much as I can scrape up. Not looking to do this professionally at the moment but I would like the door to be unlocked. Still not positive on which I'd prefer more but I don't think it'll hurt to get some guidance from those experienced whether it be on the dirt or asphalt.

well my name is Max and my love for Starquests started when i got my first car 3 years ago a 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD (Which i built and still have today) which made me look into Mitsubishi's history and thats where i discovered the starquests which i instantly fell in love with just how they look and everything about them and that they where RWD. So as time went on all my friends where buying and building 240sx's for drifting which i really enjoy but could rarely do because i dident own a RWD car so one night while i was drifting with some friends on forza 4 with a starion i started throwing the idea around that i should actually buy one and everyone was like you should im sick of seeing 240 after 240 i mean dont get me wrong there great cars but everyone and there grandma has one and i wanted to be unique so the next day i posted on facebook if anyone knew where one is for sale and within 10min i got a reply from a buddy of mine in portland who said he knew a guy who has a widebody for sale so i got in contact with him and sure enough he did have a 87 widebody for sale but it had a rod knock but that wasent a problem for me (iv built a good amount of engines with great success) so i asked him for a picture and he sent me this http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_4465.jpg i know its 2 colors but i dident care i fell in love with it. The body was in great shape and so was the interior so i told him ill take it. That weekend me and my buddy went up to portland and pick it up. The guy i bought it from was very nice and was sad to see it go but he was happy it was getting a good home and he through in a bunch of parts like turbo door handles, extra fenders, hood, manual seat belts, hard pipe with a turbo xs bov, full 2.5in exhaust and a bunch of other stuff. So right before we left he asked me if i wanted a 84 flat body parts car that has everything except a motor for $100 i told him sure so not only did i get a 87 widebody i got a 84 flatbody within 1 week crazy to think so now on top of having 5 dsm's i have 2 starquests. So when i finally got home i cleaned her up and she looks good even being 2 colors P.S. if anyone has white widebody fenders, airdam and front bumper that they would want to sell that would be awesome i already have a white hood but am looking for a 83 hood http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5122.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5126.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5121.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5119.jpg so the next weekend me my dad and my friend pulled the engine which looked to be in pretty good condition which only took 30min to pull love how easy this engine is to work on http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5129.jpg so after tearing apart the engine we found some good things and bad things. Good we found out that it has the 2.5l non jet valve head with a new deck and a 272 cam with ARP head studs http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5131.jpg Bad is i found a bearing in the oil pan with alot of metal so on further inspection it was the oil pump balance shaft bearing which in turn froze the pump from spinning which stripped all the teeth off the oil pump gear and snapped the chain so it was driving with zero oil pressure which caused a bearing to spin causing rod knock crazyhttp://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5133.jpg so when i finally got the engine completely apart i found out that it defiantly needed bored and the crank needed to be polished. The next day i took it to my machinist and we decided to go .020 over on the bore and .010 over on the crank so that night i bought everything i would need to rebuild ithttp://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5173.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5170.jpg so after getting everything back from my machinist it was assembly time which went really smooth except for the freeze plugs which where a pain in the tail to find all of them but when i did it was on like donkey kong so i got it fully assembled, removed the balance shafts and painted the block blackhttp://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5367.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5375.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5379.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5427.jpg when i was done assembling the engine we put her back in her rightful place and hooked everything up http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5438.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/my%2087%20Mitsubishi%20Starion%20ESI-R/IMG_5444.jpg well after we hooked everything up we where putting fluids in her when i noticed there was a puddle of break fluid on the ground and i tracked it the slave cylinder was leaking badly so now im just waiting on a new one to come in but in the mean time we started the engine which started on the first crank and ran perfectly we set the timing and turned her off because i want to be able to drive her to break the engine in properly so thats where she sits until hopefully Monday when the new slave comes in. A couple of days ago tho my friend and i went to Corvallis to pick up his 84 starion which i went to get some goodies he had collected over the years like a full set of 5 lug wheel that where in great condition, a turbo hatch window, widebody fenders, full black leather interior and i picked up a great condition 4G64 6 bolt wideblock for the future engine build. So now the car has 8's all around which i think looks great (wish they where SHP 9's tho) cant wait to get her lowered and driving update soon

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/3510969179.html Times are hard right now, gonna have to get rid of it.

I have for sale my 72 240. It is 100 percent RUST FREE, had a reputable body shop patch and blend all the common cancer spots on these cars (dog legs etc). Beautiful black interior besides three cracks in the dash and the driver seat has tears. l28 bored to 2.9 flat top pistons with E88 head 10 to 1 compression 274 cam VERY lumpy Triple Weber 40's were rebuilt at carb connection in totem lake last week. $700 just for the rebuild 6 to 1 header with glass pack Aluminum radiator Good four speed tranny shifts good welded 180 diff, ( have a r200 with the mustache bar that will come with) lightweight flywheel and stage two clutch 15x9 et0 boyd wheels, super rare and light federal 535 tires with less than 100 miles on them Nice Gt grant steering wheel with hub adapter The motor and clutch literally have maybe three miles on them Front calipers uprgraded to toyota 4x4 4 pistons lowering springs and struts It is back firing and I just don't have the time to tinker with it as I need to begin my ls1 swap on my drift car for the spring season All it needs is a little carb tuning the brakes bleed, and paint, and you will have one hell of a car. 6,000 OBO Need money ASAP!!! Text me for engine pics they are too big to upload!

Hey Starquest! I am finally beginning the start of my Ls1 swap for next drift season! But I am low on funds and need to part with the old power plant to pay for the fab work. I want to sell it as a package but could split tranny and engine if some one is interested... Specs: Rebuilt roughly 35k ago ( Removed oil pan before putting into my car, looked very good) 14g turbo balance shaft elimination Forged internals Will include 1986 intake manifold if wanted as well as I don't need it. Basically anything g54 related you may want from the bay can go with as a package deal. Motor runs like a champ, and very reliable, got me to high school and back everyday with zero problems. Tansmission: The transmission is also in good condition, shifts fine Has a competition clutch, stage four puck clutch and pressure plate. Also lightened flywheel ( helps these truck motors spool and actually rev up ) I really don't know what these are worth so shoot me an offer Also have a full black leather interior minus the seats for sale. I would really like to deal local but I am aware that will probably not happen. PM on here or text 425 773 0769. My name is Jackson

Disclaimer: I don't know if this was posted before, I don't see it but it's not that old. A couple minutes in, some strange red Conquest appears... and it's rocking a V8. Convette is wild in the damn streets! Detroit Drifting! 7: Click HERE

I am kinda at a fork in the road right now, I am to the point where if I keep progressing any farther with drifting im gonna need a serious motor...like 400 plus horsepower to compete with the big boys around a 5/8ths bank. I love v8's but thats what everyone is doing. The 4g family looks good cause i have seen some built dsm's with tons of horsepower. Are the g54's even capable of 400 plus hp? I think an Ls v8 would be the most bang for the buck at this point, but would like to stay mitsu under the hood. Opinions? Knowledge? Thanks

From Dallasimports.net "Dallasimports.net, NOS Energy Drinks, and North Star Dragway are proud to announce the 3rd annual DI Palooza 2011. This year we are going to make it even bigger and more fun. We have teamed up with NOS Energy for the car show portion and as some of you know last year they had their first NOS Energy Nights show which will now be apart of DI Palooza. During the day we'll race and drift and then at night we'll start the party with a car show, graffiti exhibition with the work being given away after it's finished. We're working on a number of other attractions as well that will be announced in this thread in the coming weeks. So set the date and get your cars ready because this is going to be our biggest event yet. DI Palooza Drag and Drift When Sunday October 30th, 2011 Gates open at 10AM Racing will be finished at 6pm Where North Star Dragway 3236 Memory Lane Denton TX Who Anyone and everyone all makes, models, and types there will be something for everyone. Drag Racing Rules The track will adhere to all NHRA safety regulations for your ET/MPH so please familiarize yourself with the rules if you're unsure if you can compete. Class Specific Rules Sport Fwd - Factory appearing tire only no ET Street allowed. Tires like Nitto 555s are allowed they must have a diagonal tread pattern. No limit on power adders. Any FWD 4 or 6cyl car allowed. Pro FWD - 26" slick maximum size, no limit on power adders. Any FWD 4 or 6cyl car allowed. Street N/A - Stock appearing tire only absolutely no power adders 4 and 6cyl cars only RWD/AWD allowed. FWD N/A - Stock appearing tire only absolutely no power adders 4 and 6cyl cars only, FWD only. 4G vs. EJ Sponsored by Mudpit Performance- Any car with a 4GXX or EJXX motor FWD/AWD/RWD allowed and no limit on power adders. Factory appearing tire only no ET Street allowed. Tires like Nitto 555s are allowed they must have a diagonal tread pattern. FWD 4G/EJ cars can run slick tires. RWD/AWD Sponsored by AWD Tuning - Any 4/6cyl or rotary allowed, no limit on power adders. 4CYL's may use slicks, 6cyl and Rotaries may not use slicks factory appearing tire only, must have diagonal tread. Import/Domestic V8s run street tires no MT/Hoosiers must be factory appearing, no power adders allowed, and pump gas only. Unlimited Class - Factory chassis only no back halves or tubular chassis'. Open to all makes and models including domestics no limit on power adders or tires. Bracket Class - Any make or model no limitations. Girls Bracket - Girls only all makes or models. Test and Tune - Open to everyone all makes and models. Payouts - 10 Car minimum for full payouts otherwise payouts are halved. As night falls the party begins with NOS Energy Nights kicking off after the drag racing. We will have multiple car show classes with trophies for each as well as a NOS Energy Choice award and cash money for best of show. Classes will be announced soon so stay tuned we hope to change things up a bit and not rely on traditional car show classes."