luckyboots

Okay I had a driveline vibration from about 40-50 before I worked on the car whether I was on the throttle or not but it cruised fine. I have new tires, no bent rims, bearings seem good. I had a bad CV shaft so I replaced it with a good used one. At the same time I did all new MK1 master poly bushing kit, brakes, rotors, springs, etc. Since I did all that I still have a vibration but it's very bad from 40 on up in any gear but it only vibrates when I'm accelerating or decelerating. If I match the RPM's with the speed of the car the vibration goes away. Doesn't vibrate at all below 40. The rear end clunks a bit when I put it in gear, but I do have a stage 2 clutch. I also installed Eibach Pro Kit springs. Questions: Are the CV shafts directional? Could I have accidentally put a right side shaft in the left causing a vibration? How can I check the torque tube or U-joints? I rotated them with the drive shaft off and the play seemed minimal at best. Why would replacing one shaft make the vibration so much worse? I thought maybe the tighter bushings made it more noticeable but the vibration behavior has changed completely. Only on decel and accel and none below 40. Who could I look for to replace the U joints and rebalance the drive shaft? I imagine I can do it myself but I did a search and found they are balanced. Who can service a torque tube if need be? Sorry for all the questions but I just spent a week redoing the suspension and this kinda bugs the crap out of me.

I just got a set on ebay, i needed them quick. If you could take me off the list I would appreciate it, Thanks! Eric G

Do you have a good straight hood? Thanks

I want the manual front seatbelts! PM Me for a price shipped to 74133

personally i wouldn't argue over $18.50

I know it's closed, I read the title. Just saying I want one when you sell them bud

Count me in. I'd love one of these

Count me in!! I need them as fast as possible

PM Sent

haha where is my mind. I'm gonna have to plan a trip to wichita. which ones you got ready to go?

sure i'd love pics ericisarobot@gmail.com. You're pretty far away though

I'm lookin for a Widebody rolling chassis 86-89. Preferably stock and in good shape with or without an interior. Any color, decent paint, SHP if possible. I'll make an offer but I'd prefer you tell me what you're looking to get. around the $500 range Eric G

pm sent

I sent my last payment of $200.00 via PayPal to you today. I am using a friend's account since I don't have PayPal and I am curious if you could ship it to my address instead of his. Either way will work but my address would be much more convenient. The payment was from sardiscoexchange@gmail.com/ Josh Hilton. Thanks alot man I really appreciate it and look forward to throwing the new part on! Eric Grode 10031 S Sheridan Rd Apt 1137 Tulsa, OK 74133 ericisarobot@gmail.com PS your inbox is still full

I was gonna throw down the briefcase full of money until I saw that it can only be shipped to Earth. forget it now. I'm going to need this thing shipped via UPS Galactic.

because mine hasn't blown up yet - i must have done something right

Thanks mike. I did buy an OEM oil pressure sending unit last year and put that in because my old one crapped out. The previous owner did install a sending unit in that hex plug you speak of so maybe I'll invest in a guage. I also was condsidering that my oil was too thin, so I'll try thicker stuff. I did the head 3 months ago, all gaskets and studs replaced, I'll check the studs and shaft play. The turbo was rebuilt about a year and a half ago when I bought it, but I have had oil pressure issues since then. Thanks again

First: I took my oil pan off to clean, paint, and replace the gasket and found the neck of one of the piston oil squirters laying on the bottom, broken off. Am I screwed? How hard are they to change with the engine in the car? They look like they just screw on. Second: My oil pressure is great when I run my car until it really warms up. Between the two tick marks (3/4 to top) and everything. It stays about half otherwise. Once it warms up the pressure gradually lowers until it is just over the bottom tick mark and idles at about 1/3 from the bottom under the first tick mark. It doesn't leak oil from anywhere. Is this okay? Is it just the oil viscosity changing or should I look for another way to increase the pressure? I know a BSEK would help, anyone recommend it? I'm not too worried about the inherent vibration, I have a 1.6L sentra so I'm used engine vibrations. Third: My turbo is starting to make a sound like a tornado siren, but sparingly and light (low volume) as of now. It hs been getting more frequent. Sometimes it's there, sometimes it sounds perfectly normal. There isn't a pattern to it that I can notice. I wouldn't be suprised if it's about to crap out, my car hasn't been great with oil until I sealed it up recently. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Oh and I checked the oil level which is good, I just changed it last week to mobil 1 10w30 synthetic with a new filter.

Well if it means anything to you I burned a quart of coolant a week, had 7 (count 'em) 7 cracks in my head, and never saw a bit of white smoke from the tail pipes. I noticed in the winter the exhaust was very very steamy, but during the summer i had nothing. And i have 3" straight exhaust. So yes, I would say you can burn coolant without smoke. :sweatingitout:

I'd love to check it out. Sorry to see you've gotta let her go. I'll give you a call on my next day off. Maybe we can finally meet! ha!

I'm Eric my name is neo

Do you have a low-mileage manual transmission? Thanks

that 30" Brake line piece from NAPA works great. Just bent slowly and stay away from sharp turns

I have a Fel-Pro head gasket and on the instruction sheet is mentions using a sealant on one of the surfaces of the head gasket. In the FSM is says not to apply any sealant. I've seen some copper head gasket sealant that claims a better seal and temperature distribution. Does anyone use any kind of sealant? Thanks

well that didn't contribute much. care to elaborate?