Jump to content

89PalermoSHP

Members
  • Posts

    6536
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Posts posted by 89PalermoSHP

  1. Are you determined to use the 3/4"? I was never really worried about someone stealing it because I knew they couldnt lift it out of the car... but since the crx wasnt made for speed anyhow it really didnt matter to me. Another thing I learned was using 1 high quality sub vs. 2 $60 ones made a real difference... something to think about since space is at a premium.

     

    p.s. thats a real nice lookin car...nice n shiny 8)

  2. Just a question...what are you doing to prevent standing wave in a rectangular box?

     

     

    I was thinking of that myself..I always used pillow stuffing from the fabric store and had good results. I am not a recording engineer, I could ask my uncle, but I would think the standing wave would be more of an issue if the car interior had parallel surfaces.

  3. Wow... 2 twelves... lotsa boom. I made a box for my crx for 2 12"s and it basically filled up the entire rear end and was very heavy(3/4 high density). You may want to compromise for the amount of weight it will add. Also, if memmory serves me correct the crx's back area was bigger than the quest's... be sure you calculate out the internal volume recommended for the speaker or youll spend alot of time making the box to have it sound like poop...been there done that :x . I was thinkin either 1 12" or 2 10's but then again Im gettin a little older and noone woudla talked me outta 2 12's back in the day.

     

    peace

  4. you can find volume calculators on the web fairly easily to help you do this.

     

    Ummm, Length X Width X Height

    If its angled in the front take the difference of the top length and bottom length, ie... (looking at it from the side)if the top is 10" and the bottom is 12", the difference is 2". Multiply the 2" by the height and divide by 2... this will give you the area of the triangular area, add that to the area of the 10" X 10" for a total area... then multiply this by the width of the box to get your volume.

     

    <--------10"------>

    _____________

    |.........................|.

    |.........................|...

    |.........................|.....

    |.........................|.......

    |.........................|.........

    |.........................|...........

    |____________.|_______

     

    <------12"-------------------->

     

    these are just hypothetical numbers.

    *if your internal volume isnt spot on it doesnt mean the speaker wont work... the closer you can be the better, but it would probably take some kind of sound measuring equipment to tell the difference of 1/4" off.

     

    Also, dont forget that you want internal volume so you must subtract the thickness of the material you are using to get the true internal volume

     

    ie... if we were using 1/2" mdf.... the dimensions for the inside would be 9.5" and 11.5"-(then whatever the height was)

     

    I always preferred the sound of ported boxes.. dont have scientific proof that one is better than the other, I just preferred the way it sounded

     

    It also might be a good idea to design a pocket for an amp in the back of the box(or wherever works best)to keep the clutter to a minimum. I was thinkin 2 10"s would be MORE than enough(unless your into the rap stuff :? ) and a 5 channel amp would be a killer yet simple set-up.

     

    As far as the GP goes.... instead of making them for everyone, possibly just come up with a great box plan, then be a nice guy and let everyone use it for free :D ....

  5. I wonder how the fiberglass will make the speakers sound. I always used 3/4" high-density fiberboard for my sub boxes(fully enclosed with ports), not a good choice if weight is an issue. Maybe lining the inside with dynamat would help a little. I think you may lose the benefit of the big speakers(low end) not having them in either a sealed box or properly ported enclosure. All depends on what you expect out of your stereo I guess.
  6. If you don't already have all the wiring and stuff to power your amp, get the $24 Scosche 1400 watt kit at Walmart, it's 6AWG power wire and comes very complete. You won't find a better deal.

    Very good point that can be easily overlooked.

     

    Keep in mind.....if your going to use an amp, stock wiring is a poor choice.

     

    If you plan on running an amp Id guess youd situate it in the rear of the car or possibly under a seat(im not a fan of this).

     

    You will need to run power and signal wire to the amp from the head unit and battery.

     

    Then you will have to run speaker wire back up to the front from the amp to the front speakers(rear speakers wont be an issue).

     

    Make sure you budget for wiring because you want a similar quality wire as the rest of your system. Its really worth getting decent quality wiring.

  7. I had the Pioneer 6-disc in 2 of my cars that worked through the stock stereo(I always thought someone would be less likely to break into my car). It used the RF modulator thing. I never had an issue with either of them. I am not sure if they still produce them, I always had it... but Pioneer is a good place to start.

     

    The sound quality was just fine... the biggest issue was the stock head units typically crappy internal amp. If you use an amp it shouldn't be a problem.

     

    heres a few, it looks like the model number starts with "FM"

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/PIONEER-CDX-FM653-6-DI...1QQcmdZViewItem <------wow $20 bux!

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Pioneer-CDX-FM687-6-Di...1QQcmdZViewItem

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Pioneer-6-Disc-Disk-Ad...1QQcmdZViewItem

  8. Can anyone recommend a good place to get my head rebuilt(the one on the car for now). Its an 89 Conquest- thank you metalhead :D . I plan on purchasing all of the stuff but Im not smart enough to install...Id like to leave it to the pros.

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Jesse

  9. As my name suggests, I used to own an '86 Starion ESI-R (I believe was the Olive Gray version, not quite silver, not quite gold- but closer to silver) that crapped out on me when I tried to make it home with a blown head gasket. Long story short, I didnt make it all the way home. I had just replaced the injectors not a few months before and didnt strip them.... kicking myself now.

     

    Anyhow... I now have a bit more disposable income and a winter vehicle so I decided that I really enjoyed my Starion and would like to get another. I would prefer black or silver and most definatly would like an auto tranny. If anyone has one within MN or a state away Id love to hear from you.

     

    I found one locally that "runs well but the turbo is crapped out" for 2k b/o. Can anyone fill me in on generally what it would cost to rebuild/replace the turbo. I am no mechanic, and I dont know any personally so I feel like Im at their mercy for getting a fair deal.

     

    Any input is appreciated.

     

    Thanks,

    Jesse

×
×
  • Create New...