Chad

I was looking at wideband units, came across this company: www.plxdevices.com Here is the responce I got for a GP inquiry; Thank you for your interest in our wideband oxygen sensor controllers. Our wideband controllers are already priced very low and our margins are very minimal. Typically what we do for group buys of 10 units and up is to offer 10% off our retail price. Payment must be received in full up front, but we can arrange each unit to be shipped to each individual if you provide us with all the information. Please let us know what you would like to do. Thank you. Support PLX Devices Inc. www.plxdevices.com They offer full digital display units, or no display driver units which, with the AF driver adapter, uses your existing AF gage. This is a unique feature, you can have an easy to read while driving analog display, and an digital output for datlogging, and if you get the display model you have digital readout for accurasy. They also sell AF gages for those who do not already have one. From what I have gathered, pricing is already about 20% lower than the competition, and offers the same quality. With the group purchase you get the non-display model with AF gage driver for ~$310 shipped, the display model for ~$300 shipped, and the display model with AF driver for ~$330 . All have dataloging output. That 10% discount comes out to $30-$40 off depending on which model/options you select.

I put mine below and infront of the turbo, mounted to one of the old air box mounts. I used a universal V-8 kit so I could make my own lengths, and I got a 2nd set out of the deal. Good thing too, I had to re-do my set cause one got burnt on the turbo, and I decided to move the coil pack too.

starboy, I have the regulator below the intake upstream of the injectors. I will be changing the setup soon and will have it down stream, but still not attached to the fuel rail. Having the regulator upstream has caused air bubbles to get traped in the fuel rail whenever it sits for a few hours, causing difficult cold starts.

Chip is correct, you can't download an SDS file, but you can copy one. I have my program on a spread sheet, I use this whenever I make adjustments, I update the spreadsheet every time. I have about a dozzen paper copies, each with different pro's-cons, with notes and the date. The problem with programing the SDS is it's time consuing to enter the first program because you have to use the provided interface, and there are a lot of entrys. It is however easy to tune this way, you can hold the interface in your hand while you drive. I had to do this to get the MAP program correct, something rather difficult to do with a laptop or by having to stop driving to change entrys. I just throttled it, made adjustments, throttled it again, made changes, again and again till I got the mixture correct. There is just about every combo of mods in use so you may find an SDS program from someone with similar mods to base your program off of. With the SDS, the base RPM program is the most important to get setup correclty in the beginning, it is a function of your compression ratio, cam and basicly the intake/exhaust efficency of your motor. If you can find someone with the same cam and bottom end you'll be pretty close to perfect on that program. the MAP is a measure of the turbos efficency range, it will follow the turbos compressor map and is dependant on the exhaust mods you have (headder/no cats/etc). Same deal here, copy a program with similar mods. no matter what you choose, you should be able to get hepl tuning it here.

the SDS system I use requires no more tuning than the 4 injectors systems, it is a seamless transition from stage one to stage 2. there are 2 reasons for staged injection: 1- you can use 8 readily available injectors vs. 4 very large (more expensive) custom injectors. 2- you idle on only 4 injectors so drivability is pretty good, oversized injectors dont perform well at low demand (idle/cruise) I have 8 50# injectors, I idle on 4 injectors which is about a 350 HP capacity, it runs just fine, good cruise, fair milage. When I floor it, I have 8 50# injectors on tap which gives me a 700+ HP capacity.

83-86's work in tandem, both in use at all times. They switch back and fourth one fires, then the other. They just widen their duty cycle for added fuel demand. they are ~550 cc/min ea. for a total of ~1100, the 87-89's are ~500/~1050 for a total of ~1550. You can oversize the injectors on all years, but the car will run rich, you can typicaly get away with no more than 15-20% oversize before it becomes counter-productive.

the impedance is 2.5-3.0 Ohms (varries from injector to injector). the primary (~500 cc/min) is always in use, from idle to redline. The secondary (~1050 cc-min) kicks in when the primary reaches it's duty cycle limit.

the 96+ 4.6l uses the rectangular holes, they are 3" by 2 1/2". the older 5.0's I belive used the square pattern.

Modifications required to make a magna fit a US spec G54B: -relocate TB to opposite side of plenum, weld in old TB entry (moderate welding). -fabricate new throttle linkage bracket (slight welding) -relocate T-stat housing (moderate welding), add water temp boss for new ECU (slight welding), add water port for heater core hose (slight welding) and cap/cover old T-stat housing (slight welding) -Drill/tap new ports for PCV/boost level/brake booster I've done this service on 3 magnas, they take me about 3 1/2 hours ea. plus about $25 in material. I typicaly charge $150, but this may be less than you would expect from local shops, depends on how busy they are and how skilled they are at fabrication. You will also have to know how/where these mods need to take place or you will be wasting a lot of their time.

Yah Joel, they are still at best not a solution to the stock ECU and it's problems. It's just the best "bandage" I've seen yet that is proven to work on the stock ECU. I finaly gave up on it when I couldn't get past 18 PSI on a T-4, but bear in mind thats more power than most would ever make anyway. I ran into several side effects which were unavoidable at these tuning levels, cold start problems, fuel cut etc. This was with well oversized injectors, DSM MAS, extensive fuel supply mods, intercooler/piping mods, full 3" exhaust/custom headder, and the full race-motor build internaly. It was probably 350+ HP, but it wasn't fully streetable to me. I now use the SDS EM-3F with 8 525 cc/min injectors Runs better with the same mods.

I got one for $75, they are not a rip off used, just if you get one new. I don't know how the AFC works, but as I understand it, it is modifying the MAS/AFS signal. I know from experiance the F-con uses input from the MAS, but modifies the injector signal, not the MAS signal to the ECU to get it's results. It takes the injector signal from your stock ECU, and add's to is as needed to support your mods. The ECU doesn't get tricked into a rich condition like mose MAS controllers work, rather it stays within it's OEM program and had the MAS signal altered slightly to keep the ECU happy. The 86 version comes with a FCD, but any boost mods on the 86 need that, even with an AFC due to the 86's unique boost sensor which is seperate from the AFS signal.

I had one on an 86 and an 88. I played with several different setups, and when I finaly pulled it out I was running 19 PSI on a T-4 turbo, so they will support quite a lot of power with the right mods and some tinkering. I had oversized injectors to support this turbo, I was able to get a good cruise without being too rich with the F-con, without it I always ran too rich with these injectors. The FCD is only needed with an 86, the 87 you may as well upgrade to the 88/89's which don't have a fuel cut (or it's so high few ever see it). You can make the F-con work on any year 86-89 if you know how to move the pins (I did on mine).

I put in the shield a few days ago, and I'd definatly give the product my recommendations. It is well crafted and fits nicely, even on my very custom setup. I'll be providing pics soon.

The 3 that I modified for other users all use the 96+ 4.6 mustang TB, It is also the same one I use on my own intakes, It's cheap and at 67 MM, it has plenty of potential.

I could do the T-4. I have mine installed and running.

Does he like cats? my wife has a cat ;D Anyway, looks good mike, I look forward to seeingone on a car. My T-4 sits a bit close to the plug wires (custom headder) so I'd need to see how the cover sits. How far from the outter edge of the turbine to the outter dege of the cover? looks like about 1/2".

This mod is designed for use with the VSV system on those motors (solenoid valve (VSV) that opens or closes depending on system conditions,). But this idea could be used with the addition of a vacuum solenoid, like the ones used on our cars for EGR and the like. If you used the hobs switch to control the vacuume solenoid, and set the hobs switch to just before the desired boost level, you would reap the lag benifits of an electronic valve controller, and these benifits are substaqntial from my experiance ;D

Vibration on the runner welds should be ZERO. there are 2 support brackets, one between the turbo flange and head flange, the other between the turbo flange and the block. there is no weight on the runners, it is all supported by the brackets. Also I used stainless bracketry, stronger than steel and thus less prone to fatique. Wven if the motor moves due to warn out mounts, the bracketry is all attached to the motor itself. Mike, that HKS WG is 40 MM, it should be able to support the biggest of T-4's. I ran my T-4 to 20 PSI, rock solid stable boost.

Mike, the bracket attaches to the motor on the upper block-to-motor mount bolt. The part with the 30* bend goes on the block side. With the 2 brackets working together you should be able to support a 1000 pound turbo The idea was to minimize vibrations on the headder, vibration is the main cause of cracks.

Kevin ; ups tracking 1z8490570346958963 It went out a few days ago. That flow map does look like a good comprimise between flow and lag. I just thought the T-4 used in that comparison was a lower flowing unit and thus not an honest comparison. I blame the vendor for that, not you Kevin. Also on that large A/R, we need to keep in mind this is baised on a T-3 turbine, this A/R is equlivilant to a .70 T-4 which is in the "streetable" range, a good choice for the setup Kevin is using in my opinion.

that flow map is misleading, I know of several T-4 maps that outflow the map you provided for the GT series. look at the Turbonetics site, you will find seveal 60-62 series compressors.

I took some "in progress" pictures, they will be loaded on my site this afternoon. I have 6 done, just waiting on the external WG ports on a few. shipping them out this coming monday/tuesday. the T-4 manifolds will have to be made from a 2nd batch, the collector was just too small on the template I used for the T-3 and mitsu flanges. Sorry for the delays to those with the T-4 orders, but I wasn't about to send you guys a manifold that was restrictive. I am very pleased with how the mitsu and T-3 manifolds turned out, the collectors have come together very nicely.

Joel, the SDS does support staged injection, that is what I run on the 8 injector intake on my car. It is the EM-3F with staged injection ($100 option).

OK guys, here's the update. I have all the pipes cut to length and welded into their new shapes. I've welded the #2 and #3 runners together at the collector and ground out the inside for smooth flow and I've welded this onto the flanges. Tomorrow I start welding the #1 and #4 runers on, then it's on to the furbo flanges. I'm definalty near the end on them, all of them.

turn in a change of address to the motor vehicles division using the other address. this only changes where your registration gets sent to, there are no other changes (like bills or such). You would probably get a discount on insurance too if the car were registered in a lower risk area or your state. When I was in college, I had my car registered at my parents house for 4 years, all the while actualy living 100 miles away. It shows on your drivers liscence, but you can carry arround an old one that still has your current address, or don't put the new address sticker on it if you are worried about using your ID with an out of area address. Cops will not like this, but if you get pulled over, just way you have been moving arround, and haden't settled at one address yet.