Chad

I just recived the package today, 4-08-04 ;D Everythying looks good and seems to be there. It will take me about a week to start shipping them out.

the package in in port, but has not been released by cusotms. They have had it for 4 or 5 days, and there is nothing we can do about it I expect to recive it Tuesday/Wednesday.

Recently there has been a shortage of chrome and nickel, these are use to alloy the steels we use for such items. This shortage is doubling the price of stainless. The asian metals market has been booming which has been using up the limited supply. Unfortunatly they can't "make" these elements, they have to be mined and refined. The components to make steel are like oil products, they have limited supply/refinerys, and a fluctuating demand. I have one of the early kits, EXCELENT quality of manufature.

Why not use the stock ECU power? It is a large gage wire and it won't be running any other systems when you convert. If you tie into another system, it will draw the power down to an unacceptable level when both systems are in use. If you can, it would be best to connect direct to the battery (with an inline fuse ofcourse).

Here is the official order: 1- David Y. (Kawika) Cash 2- John B. (indiana) pay-pal 3- Glenn B. (jr_ss) pay-pal 4- Victor Z. (gunpackingpoet) pay-pal 5- Reid G.(Grey-wolf) 6- Chris G (ekstatixx) 7- JR L. (jolyrgr) 8- Adam F. (mrdodge01) 9-Joshua K. (rptsi) 10- Kiet V. 11- Ivan (just 2 gaskets) 12- Dave L. (just 1 gasket and one fuel rail) Payment is being sent tonight, we'll have a shipment date soon from AU to US. Once i get them, it will be 1 week to mod, and, 3-7 days to ship (depending on how far you are).

Yah, I got you covered Ivan

As of 3-12-04 I have recived/negotiated payment from   1- David Y. (Kawika) Cash  2- John B. (indiana) pay-pal  3- Glenn B. (jr_ss) pay-pal  4- Victor Z. (gunpackingpoet) pay-pal  5- (Grey-wolf) 6- Chris G (ekstatixx) 7- JR L. (jolyrgr) 8- Adam F. (mrdodge01) 9-(rptsi) 10- Kit  if you want one, you MUST make payment by the end of friday 3-12-04

Just a note for those getting in on this, here are some gaskets you will need. Felpro 90981 Felpro 61050

If you are a careful shopper, you can get wone with a digital readout for $300 to $350. I have yet ot see anything for less than $280, and I would be suspisious if I did see one for less $$.

You guys may want to look in the for sale forums, Kellydaman is selling a intercooler hard pipe kit that fits this magna. It would save you a lot of fabrication time and he has them in stock for a real good price. I have no financial interest in them, I just wanted to let you guys know there are some options for those of you that don't want to fab a lot of parts to get this mod done.

I discovered the TPS was backwards too, I just wired it backwards so it now reads 0-5V with 0 at idle and 5 at WOT. 2 minute wiring fix. Artinist; I make my own flanges. it is pretty easy with the right tools. Cost is maybe $1. I use a TB for the template, cut the TB opening with a 2 3/4" hole saw (70 mm). The T-stat flange is a little more trickey which is why I re-use the old stat flange when I cut it off the back of a magna. I do make them from scratch for my custom intakes, but it takes time. If you need help on those, I may be willing to help. Also, are you using a TIG to weld these? the MIG process is too porous, I wouldn't recomend that on anything that has water going through it. It can be done, but there is a lot of "fix it" time involved, and it starts to look ugly after a while.

OK, pleaase check over my list.  If are already in on this, check to see that your name is posted, if not contact me ASAP.  If you want in on this, the details for joining in are listed below. OK, here is the payment info.  Send $$ via pay-pal to me at: chad86tsi@yahoo.com Or send me a money order to: Chad Samuel 3628 NE West Devils Lake Rd Lincoln City OR 97367 If you send a M/O, include the address you want the intake sent to, Also let me know it is being sent and when to expect it so I don't loose track of your order.  An order is not offical and will not be sent to b00st3d untill I recive $$.  If you pay via pay-pal, it will go to your "confirmed" address, unless you state otherwise.  Make sure I have your full name too, not just your address. As of 3-10-04 I have recived/negotiated payment from  1- David Y. (Kawika) Cash 2- John B. (indiana) pay-pal 3- Glenn B. (jr_ss) pay-pal 4- Victor Z. (gunpackingpoet) pay-pal 5- (Grey-wolf) 6- Chris G (ekstatixx) 7- JR L. (jolyrgr) 8- (loderunner) 9- Adam F. (mrdodge01) 10-(rptsi) I will update this list daily, please remember the cutoff date is midnight 3-12-04, the payment and "offical" order will go to b00st3d on the 13th.  It is possible we may be able to accomidate late buyers, but there will be no guarantee and this GP is supposed to wrap up quickly once the orders are in.

By all means join in. This deal closes on the 12th, you have plenty of time to send a money order or pay via pay-pal. Just read my post earlier in this thread for instructions. ekstatixx, I'll put you in the > sending Moneyorder list

Starhunter, I think these GP's will likely happen on a semi regular basis given the constant demand and the contacts/communication that has finaly been established. I don't have any way to forcast the timing nor regularity, but every other month sounds reaonable.

Ivan, are you talking aobut that little cylinder/ball at the end of the cable? I've had to drill out the TB recess for that on mine.

Well first look for oil leaks, on the ground or on the motor. Then just let it warm up (2-5 min) and then drive it a mile or two. If after that it still smokes, you need to look for something wrong. It is normal for contamination on the exhaust/turbo to make smoke, but it usualy burns off quickly. The raw fuel in the exhaust should come out after a few miles of driving. If the base RPM map is too rich, that will cause the problems you decribe. Try to bump the RMP map in the idle range up for a bit, then down, see if the smoke clears with this. I was able to get the car to idle with the RPM map in the +/-50 range so just because it idles doesn't mean the mixture is right at all.

Your RPM map is way too flat. It needs to ramp up to about 20% above idle by about 4000 RPM, and taper down about 5% from 5000 to 7000. Set the RPM Fuel values so you are at a good A/F (not lean, not rich) from 750 to 1500. Drive the car slow and easy so the MAP values don't get in the way (no boost). Once you find a valuse that gives you the correct A/F in this RPM range, start there and work your way up. these values will differ with different cams, but this will give you a good baseline. an *example* would look like: RPM fuel 500 113 750 113 >this is the "start" value once you get this number, go from here. 1000 115 1250 118 1500 121 1750 125 2000 130 3000 135 4000 140 5000 138 6000 136 7000 134 8500 130 Your timing and MAP look like propper curves. I can't vouch for the MAP values since EVERY setup is different, but the basic curve looks right. I have a large turbo so it comes in slow at first, then very fast. Since you have a stock turbo, the increase should be pretty smooth like what you have in your MAP curve. The timing is very similar to mine, that looks OK. You still need to time it with a light, that lets you know if your magnets are aligned propperly. if you are iding at 10* BTDC on the SDS, the timing light should say 10* BTDC too.

Asuming you have the ford 4.6L TB, you can add a turn to the spring, that will make anoticable difference. I did that to mine.

OK, here is the payment info. Â Send $$ via pay-pal to me at: chad86tsi@yahoo.com Or send me a money order to: Chad Samuel 3628 NE West Devils Lake Rd Lincoln City OR 97367 If you send a M/O, include the address you want the intake sent to, Also let me know it is being sent and when to expect it so I don't loose track of your order. Â An order is not offical and will not be sent to b00st3d untill I recive $$. Â Â If you pay via pay-pal, it will go to your "confirmed" address, unless you state otherwise. Â Make sure I have your full name too, not just your address. As of 3-10-04 I have recived payment from 1- David Y. (Kawika) Cash 2- John B. (indiana) pay-pal 3- Glenn B. (jr_ss) pay-pal 4- Victor Z. (gunpackingpoet) pay-pal 5- (Grey-wolf) 6- Chris G. (ekstatixx) 7- JR L. (jolyrgr) 8- (loderunner) 9- Adam F (mrdodge) 10- (rptsi) I will update this list daily, please remember the cutoff date is midnight 3-12-04, the payment and "offical" order will go to b00st3d on the 13th. Â It is possible we may be able to accomidate late buyers, but there will be no guarantee and this GP is supposed to wrap up quickly once the orders are in. Â

Ivan, If you can work it out with b00st3d to get the gaskets in the same box as the intakes, I'd be happy to help pass them on to you for just cost of postage. You could pay-pal me, and I can send it along with the rest of the GP $$ so you don't have to pay the $exchange$ fees and such.

You can test the plug the old fassioned way, but make sure the lead is connected to a sparkplug, NOT a screwdriver, or just the air spark method, those will damage the coils. Just set the plug on something grounded, like the fender channel or the block. I know from experiance you can foul a plug in just a few minutes of bad timing or excess fuel. Just take some paint thinner and get the oil off, and some very fine sandpaper for the carbon/soot.

Ryan-tex, you are correct except for the TB, you have to buy that. As listed in one of my replies in this thread, they are cheap and easy to find. Kellydaman offers the hardpipe from IC to manifold for this intake setup, you may want to check with him on availability, but they were under $100 I belive.

I say timing too, where does the timing read on the SDS console, and what does the timing light tell you? they should always be within 1 degree of each other. Which SDS model do you have? My setup is different from most, but I couldn't even get it to starg with factory settings, I had to totaly redo the RPM map.

Yah, I'm going to be part of this GP, and look forward to offering a good mod for far less than these have ever been offered. As you can see from our prices, neither of us will be getting rich.. Hey, that's what this club is about, great parts at good prices ;D Just to confirm, the TB flange I provide is for the for the 65mm 96+ ford 4.6L TB flange, but I actualy drill the hole for the 70mm aftermarket TB at NO charge. It is the same time/$ to do the 70 mm hole, so that is what I provide. There are no problems using a 65 MM TB on a 70 MM hole, but if I provided a 65 MM hole and you used a 70 MM TB, you would have problems Check Ebay for the 65 mm TB's, they are usualy $30 or so. They are often under $20 at a locak junk yard. You can get the -new- 70 MM model for about $150.

When I mod them, there will be 2 3/8" NPT threaded holes. One for a Gage Temp sensor, one for the ECU temp sensor. I can leave one metric if you want, but most are using the aftermarket water temp gages which are the 3/8" thread.