Munkee

yes i have both. will snap pics when i get home from work today.

What condition is the TT in? any way to check the teeth on the spline? might be interested in the roller rockers and trans cover also.

i have a set. i will get you pics.

So I have an NJV AMC head in the garage I will be putting on this summer. In the mean time I want to start getting it ready and had a few questions. 1. Roller rockers. What exactly is the advantage of them? I know they are functionally different then the slip rockers, but how does this help performance? 2. What is the difference between 1.4 and 1.6 ratio rockers? I've read that you need a new cam for a roller rocker set up, and that it matters what ratio the rockers are. 3. I've seen that the 1.4 can be sourced out of a 6g72 engine. Where's the best place to find 1.6? I googled and checked ebay and most seem to be for ford/chevy V8 applications. 4. I'm going to give the head a mild P&P along w/ SS valves and HD springs. Besides this, what parts from the old head can be reused? Retainers, guides, keepers, lifters? I know the seats need to be reused because they are no longer available. Thanks for the help.

OK i lied. had to give it one more shot. Does the dome lamp have anything to do w/ the circuit fuse 9 is on? I put in another fuse and this time made sure all buttons, lights switches were off. Noticed the middle button on the dome light was pressed in. Turned that off. Turned on the car and I got light. Sat in the car for about 10-15min and no issue. Went back inside for a bit, came back out, played w/ the turns, hazards, pop ups, popped the lights again and i still had light. Started the car and sat in again for 10-15 min and reved the engine a few times and no problem with the lights, tested the cig lighter and I was reading voltage. checked the engine bay for burn smells but nothing. I remember before i lost lights the first time I was messing w/ the dome lights. Since the middle button didnt seem to work when I tested it I dont know if I ever actually turned it off after I noticed my headlights were out the first time. Could this be what was blowing the fuse this whole time?

OK i give up for the night. Put in a 3rd fuse, turned the key but didnt start the car or hit the lights. Smelled like something burning. Checked the fuse and blown again! Not even a minute this time! I swear this car hates me...

Found a thread that said to check internal fuses. I checked a few the first time and looked ok but I only checked the ones that sounded like they would pertain to my problem. The thread said check fuse 9 (horn) and sure enough it was blown. replaced it and headlights worked again! I sat there w/ a smug smile on my face while I tested the headlights and a few other things and then shut the car off. I decided to retest the cig lighter and got 0 voltage again. thought this was strange until I tested the lights and they were out again. Pulled the fuse and its blown again. What would be causing me to blow this fuse repeatedly?

So not the relay . Swapped in the new one, still no lights. Im officially stumped at this point and I'll wait for any suggestions.

Ok, so I did it anyway. Bypassed the relay w/ a piece of wire and the headlights turned on as soon as I connected the battery. So bad relay then? I just want to make sure I'm replacing the right part before I go get one. Autozone has it for $32 . This is a pretty one sided conversation but I guess its just helping me to sound things out as I work on them.

OK so I pulled the alt plug and I get batt voltage down the S side of the connector, but 0v down the L side. Tested resistance down the L connector to the other end of my charge harness and I get 0 resistance. Problem must lie beyond that. What's my next step? I pulled the panel over the fusible links and pulled the HL relay. Should I bypass the relay and jump the line w/ a wire, then hookup the batt and see if i can get the lights on?

So now we have NEW problems! Driving home today everything looked good. I noticed about 10 min into my drive that the headlights were not working! I know they were working when I left work because i saw them reflected on the wall i parked in front of. And I go over a mountain road w/ 0 lights and I know they were working then. I noticed they were out about 5 min on the other side of the mountain. I didnt notice at first because there's lots of street light and traffic. Only reason i noticed is because my brights light on the dash went out (one of my headlights was already out a few months ago so i was using the brights until i fixed it. they werent really bright enough to annoy oncoming traffic). Anyway i flip the switch back and forth and the light doesnt come one but notice my lights arent changing/reflecting on the car in front of me. I was able to make it home safely and ran a few tests. this is what i have so far. 1. batt voltage still reads fine. I will pull the alt plug after the engine cools down and test the voltage coming off the plug 2. fusible links in the sub-fusible link box look fine (as far as i can tell) 3. All interior lights (dash/dome/door) seem to work. Blinkers/flashers work. Brake lights and reverse lights work too. 4. Fogs/headlights/brights dont work. Not sure if fogs ever worked, i never had to test them before. 5. I no longer see voltage out of the cig lighter in the car. I did the test this afternoon as I mentioned but now I get 0 reading out of it. 6. When I apply the brakes the hazards/left blinker stops blinking and stays on. doesnt affect the right blinker. I also noticed something strange when i went to lunch. on my way to get lunch the hvac controls started changing themselves. First the blower turned itself on, then the face/foot/defrost buttons clicked back and forth on their own, then the air switched from recirc to fresh. I set them all back and it didnt happen after that. Later when the engine cools down I need to pull the sub fusible link box and check check the links/relays behind it. Any idea what might have caused this?

you got PM

Oh yeah, the crimp joint (where the 2 8 gauge wires become 1) was wrapped in splicing tape. The rest of the harness was wrapped in Nashua Stretch & Seal tape, then covered w/ 1/2in wire loom.

Lucky I still have my volt meter in the car. I ran out during my lunch and tested this. W/ engine off Im getting 12v @ battery and 11.8v @ cig lighter. W/ engine on Im getting 14v at battery and 13.8v @ lighter. When I turn the car over the voltage at the lighter climbs slowly from 11.8, and takes about 5-10 sec to reach 13.8, but after that it bounces between ~13.6-13.8v. a .2v drop is not bad IMO. So I guess I'm looking at swapping the ign switch?

bump bump!

ok a little more testing. Took it out for a spin and noticed voltage will dip when RPMs dip below 1000. Drops to around 10.5-11 on the dash gauge. Only for a second or so, then comes back up to 12. Tightened the alt belt some more. Battery shows 12.3v w/ engine off. 14.1v w/ engine on, and bounces between 13.5v and 14.2v w/ engine and lights/radio on. It will sometimes drop to the 13.2v range, but only for a second then back up to 13.7ish. Checked the fuses inside the car and the look good and show no resistance. Made sure they were all snug in their spots. Took the car out for another spin and I still notice the slight voltage drop when the RPMs drop below 1000. Is this still an issue w/ tension on the belt? Other than that car seems to be running fine. Im fairly confident the charging system is taken care of and the gauges low reading is something along the line to my dash gauge.

Didnt feel i "needed" to, but since I was in there, I figured, why not? I was able to finally pull the connector off the stock wire so I reused the stock plugs and no butt connectors. So, she's alive! List of what I did: 1. new terminals (old positive terminal had a split in it, probably where some of the resistence was coming from) 2. Rebuilt charging harness w/ new 8 AWG wire, gold terminals, added 2nd punch wire 3. 2 gauge ground cable w/ chassis harness added back in (previous ground cable had the chassis ground on the ignitor box and skipped the stock chassis ground) 4. swapped alternator and added ground strap to body (from the SOS) 5. Cleaned terminals and tested all fusible links in fusible link box Car turned right over and volt meter shows a bit above 12v. Turned on all the lights and still holds steady at slightly above 12. tested the turns and they blink steady but voltage dances to right at 12. Tested the battery w/ car idling and I get 14.5v. I apparently still have resistance somewhere between the links and my volt gauge, but for now the car is running again and I'm happy.

I have the heat shields and a few spare fusible links.

Im going to go ahead and just finish building it as is. One problem I ran into though is in the how to 87quest_stv says he pulled the connector out of the plug and recrimped the connector on the new wire. I pulled the connector out but the connector is crimped and soldered on, and i cant find any possible way to remove it. I've removed as much of the solder as i can but it looks like theres still enough on there to hold the crimp in place. I may just have to put a butt connector on there and bypass the plug if i cant figure this out today. I need to get this car back on the road before Monday.

Ran into a problem. When rebuilding the harness, I noticed mine doesnt have that red wire that makes a u turn at the end of the harness. The SOS write up and the FAQ here both show it, but mine just has a wire straight from the "S" side of the alternator to the plug on the other side. Did all cars have this?

Ok. So battery good, alt bad. Lucky I had a spare in the garage and had it tested and passed. Will be swapping this in tonight. Still going to finish rebuilding the charge harness as well. Might have all this done by tomorrow we'll see how this goes. too bad im still waiting on that flag terminal to finish my new beefy ground cable .

I know these can be ordered from DAD, but I only need the main link (black) and its $7 shipping for a $3 part. any one have an extra one lying around? If not i may just order a few from DAD in all colors to make the shipping worth it and just to have spares I guess.

thank you

I pulled the alt and battery last night and dropped them off this morning to get tested. hopefully i hear back soon. I pulled the fusible links and all seem fine and show 0 resistance across them w/ my DVOM. The main fusible link (black) on the charge cable also looks fine and shows 0 resistance when tested. I cleaned the spade contacts on the fusible link box and tested from the plug contacts to the spades and saw 0 resistance across all of them, so the fusible link box looks good to me. I got a new 2 gauge ground cable but I could not find a flag ring terminal (newly learned term, yay!) locally to add the body ground point. I had to order one which hopefully should get her friday or saturday. I've got everything else I need to rebuild the charge cable and will be doing that this week. I want to add a 2nd punch wire but will need to order a 2nd fusible link from DAD. Luckily I'm able to work from home this week so I dont have to drive the car and I can do bits of work in between lunch and breaks. Hopefully I can get this going again by saturday.

http://brillman.com/store/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/b/a/battery-cable-flag-lug.jpg Im building a new ground cable and I am trying to find one in 2 AWG for the mid grounding point on the cable. But I cant seem to find the exact name for it so its making a bit difficult to google. Closest I could find is a "flag lug". Can anyone help me out or possibly point me to where I can order one? I wasnt able to find one locally at home depot/autozone/pep boys.