boysatt

sale pending on struts

the whole rear end or parts? The car had a little under 70K

well a sale is already pending on it. I know they are hard to find, so I had no idea how to price it.

I parted out a 88 TSI SHP car a few years back and still have the complete suspension. Struts are still nice and show some surface rust, but they have no leaking and the clickers work great, and strut mounts are good. Have complete front and rear, dropped out of the car. Included is the rear differential and front end still have all steering and brakes attached. Open to offers, will part out if needed. Mike

I got a motor from a 88 conquest tsi, had just over 65K when pulled. Motor ran perfect before removal, turbo has no shaft play, burnt no oil. Compression is 135, 135, 135, 140. Its complete and ready to install, no injectors. $350 OBO 5-speed tranny from 86 TSI. Shifted good, no grinding or noise. Had 86K when pulled. $250 OBO Prices are not set in stone, I have no idea what to ask, so I am open to all offers. I pulled the motor and tranny from my 86 TSI project car about 6 months ago. I am installing a Supra motor in instead. Mike

I have a motor from a 89 COnquest TSI, Had 65K when pulled. Ran great, with all compression within specs. Motor compete minus accessories and injectors. $300 SHP front and rear suspension, pulled from a 89 TSI. Front is complete suspension including crossmember struts, brakes etc. Rear is complete also with struts, brakes, differential, etc. Adjustable stocks in great condition and show very little rust on the bodys. $250 for all 5-speed from a 86 TSI, shifted perfect before removal, will include a lightly used clutch is wanted. $200 I also have lots of other parts like interior panels, a pair of complete power doors, extra hatch, etc. I am open to offers also. Everyhting located in moorhead, MN.

I have a 86 COnquest TSI shell for sale. Very clean, 98% rust free, only like 80K on it, perfect cloth interior, everyhting worked. $500 Located in Moorhead, MN

I just ordered a new alternator, wasn't in the mood to deal with that upgrade now, I need the car on the road now, and they gaurenteed they would have it for my at 8am tomarrow, so I can have it on the road. Mike

I pulled the alternator and found it was shot, so I ordered a new one, not happy about spending $160 for it though, but I guess I will see how the problem changes afterward. Mike

This 87 TSI has been one problem afer another, now I got another problem. Not only does it like to drain the battery over a few days but now it won't charge it anymore. I just put a brand new battery in it 2 weeks ago. Here's exactly what the car did to me today, when I came out this mornging it would only crank slowly but not enough to fire, so I jumped it, drove it some and had it running about 45 minutes and then parked it. Came out to start it 2 hours later, and it barley had enough juice to crank it and had to jump the car again. I just got it home and put in in the garage, shut it off and tried starting it again, wouldn't stat without jump. So I put my battery tester/charger on it, fired it up and used the tester to check the alternator, it said it was charging at 14 volts. I let the car run for 15 minutes and come back and find battery acid comming out of the battery covers. So what gives, is not alternator crap or what?

My battery is 2 weeks old, and has 1000cca, so its a hell of a good one. I found another problem, my battery isn't charging now. Think my alternator went.

thanks, I'll try that, I just had the etac out the other day because I mounted a adjustable proportioning valve under the seat and I noticed that thing was really rusty so I cleaned it up a bit. I know it was rusty, so ya think water could have shorted it out? Mike

I have a 87 Conquest TSI. It seems to drain the battery within 2 days, if I don't run the car. I can't seem to find out whats causing it, because I can't find anything on. Anyone else have this problem or know where I can start looking. My interior lights don't work so I know it isn't them, and I pulled the bulbs to make sure they wouldn't give me problems. I know my power windows still work after turing off the car for a few minutes, so I am guessing it has a retained power circut? So is their any relays that tend to go band or what, I have checked pretty much everyhting and no relays click when I connect the battery, so what next?

I got impaitent and made all new brake lines. Now it works good.

So where can I get a adjustable proportioning valve to work with the stock brake line fittings??? All the ones summit sells are in std threads and not metric. Did the guys running a adjustable one put a std fitting on their lines or what?? Mike