vinmaxesir

***SOLD***

With 4 cars, 3 bikes, and only 2 drivers in my family,,,,,,,,,,,, it's come time to sell my daily driven Starion. I've just purchased an Acura TL for our family, so it's time for my beloved Starion and me to part ways. This car's exterior is a 8/10. No rust through anywhere on the car. Paint is not new but looks nice. The car's interior is a 8/10. No cracked dash or torn seats. Just wear as normal for a car of this age. The car's mechanical is a 8/10. Passed emissions, and is daily driven. Could use an alignment I think, as the car seems a bit loose in the steering. All these cars get this way with age. I did replace the steering box years ago, but I think it's the rubber bushing that is kind of old and loose. Drives fine and stable on the highway, but in the city on rutty roads, it kind of catches the 'lines' in the road a bit. But I only drive it 10 miles each day, so I didn't bother with it. Car is reliable as hell. Starts each and every day. Winter or Summer. I have MasterCraft Glacier Grip II tires on the rear. Tires are amazing in the winter. Ready for winter driving! The front tires are good also, but not new like the rear. I've had this car since 2004. It was purchased from an enthusiast in Washington state. He told me he rebuilt the engine and replaced the head with a non-jet valve head. He also removed the balancer shafts. I daily drove the car since then. The car has over 120,000 miles, but the speedometer shows 9X,XXX. I replaced it because the original did not work. The odometer worked, but not the speedo. Now the speedo is out again. Seems to work when it's warm, but not cold. The car has had 4 rebuilt calipers installed by me. I also replaced the stock rotors with some eBay rotors that are drilled and slotted, along with steel braided brake lines and new pads. I had the 5 speed rebuilt years ago by AAMCO. It was getting really noisy. Now it has a MK1 short shifter installed, and a Redline shifter boot. The A/C works, although it now has 134a refrigerant. The radio works. The clock, tach, boost gauge, etc all work. *Just not the speedometer,,,, but odometer works. Driver's side automatic seat belt does not work. I have the motor/seatbelt assembly that I will include with the car if you want to replace it and make the driver's seat belt work. Passenger side seat belt works fine. The horns do work, but are disconnected. I replaced the steering wheel with the one I had in my old '84 Starion, and it's getting reallyyyyyyyyyyyyyy old. The horn got stuck on, so I just disconnected them. It's not the horn problem, but the steering wheel itself. The steering wheel would probably need to be replaced for the horn to work again. It was never a really expensive wheel when I got it. Just one of those cheaper aftermarket wheels. Ask, ask, ask, me anything you want. I've had this car for years, and can't remember everything that was done to it, either by me or the previous owner. NO it's not perfect. Not even close. BUT, it's a great looking car, and reliable as hell like I said before. You can daily drive this, or return it to it's former glory and make it a show and go car. One more thing,,,,,,,,,,,,,, notice the '83 hood? I installed that years ago. Looks great.I also replaced the broken '87 air dam with a later model '88 dam. Bought it new and had it painted to match the rest of the car. Check out my pics on Photobucket: http://s1096.photobu...on%205%20Speed/ Thanks for looking, and feel free to contact me directly at: vinmon@hotmail.com I live in Broomfield, Colorado. Vinnie

Thanks guys, I'll check that out. Vinnie

Hi All, Quick question: Why would BOTH power windows be non operational (and NO it is not the fuse)? And it's not the 'lock' switch being in the 'locked' mode. I'm at work and just got back from Burger King, and then parked the car and went to put the driver's side window back up, and it it would not move. I tried the passenger side and it would not go down. I checked all fuses inside the car near my left leg under the dash. Are there other fuses to check that would cause this? Where is the window relay??? Maybe it's not operating. Please help. I hope it doesn't rain today Thanks, Vinnie

I think you might be getting a little mixed up here. The 12a and 14G are compressor wheels. 12a was the stock size. Meaning 'intake' side of the turbo. The TD05 and TD05H wheels are the turbine wheels or 'exhaust' side. So, if you are going to use a 12a or a 14G, you won't be boring out the exhaust at all. You'll only have to bore the exhaust if you're going from a TD05 to a TD05H wheel. On the intake side, both the 12a and the 14G will fit the same shaft. BUT, if the turbo was originally a 12a and you want to go to a 14G, then the compressor side cover has to be bored out. Vinnie

Love the car. I can believe you'll miss her for a long time to come. I have an '87. Silver,,, with that same '83 hood. Would love to give your car a good home. I live in Broomfield, Colorado. The thing is, can this car be a daily driver? And can it pass emissions inspection? I have the cash, but need to know if I will be able to actually drive the car regularly and get it licensed and insured. Does the car drive straight and have tight steering? What I'm thinking is to buy your car and then I'll have my car to work on like I always wanted. Right now, I use mine for a daily driver and have no time to work on it. Sorry for all the questions, but this really has my mind going... Thanks, Vinnie

Great. Thanks for the info. Vinnie

Anyone know the stock thread size of the shifter handle of an 87 Starion? I want to get a shifter ball from another car,,, one without one of those plastic inserts, and don't know what the metric size is. Vinnie

There's some good information in this article. It pretty much tells us that the setpoint for the a BOV is critical: http://www.gofastbits.com.au/troubleshooting Also, I setup my MityVac and found that I pull about 16.5Hg at idle. I have to set (cruch) my 1G BOV so that it is just shy of opening at that vacuum range. What are you guys getting for vacuum at idle? Vinnie

So who bores out exhaust housings? I have a good one from a 12a. No cracks. Looks great. But need it bored for the 05H wheel. Vinnie

Hey Scotty Stock housing bored out? Any cracks at all??? Oh also, really important.... Is it bored out for the TDO5 'H' wheel? I have the 14g core, but need the housing for an 'H' wheel. I'm using a 14g now, but with only a TDO5 exhaust wheel, so I'm getting by with a stock exhaust housing. Vinnie

Tell me about the condition of the part. Is it custom or anything or just a bored out stock unit. Also, any cracks at all??? Vinnie

I have a 14G cartridge, and it has a TDO5H exhaust wheel. Can't use it until I get an exhaust housing that's been bored. Anyone have one for sale??? Vinnie

Here's the picture of the wiper arms with all of the little fingers simply gone on the outside holder. This is why these things fail and do not give accurate 'sweeps' when seen with an analog ohm meter. You'll notice that the wiper arm on the outside is the broken/failed one. There are no 'fingers' that are supposed to be there to wipe on the electronic board. Only the metal holder remains and that is what is digging into the board. That coincides with my picture of the board where you can see that the board has been gouged due to the lack of the tiny fingers that were supposed to be riding on it. Instead, the metal that used to hold the fingers was doing the damage to the board. It's pretty cool to actually 'SEE' what happened and why I needed to change the TPS. Also is the reason that I would not buy a used one. Vinnie

I purchased a new TPS due to the old one not responding properly. I got the one that is meant for another car but is lots cheaper (about $90.00). I only had to change the connector to make it fit. It works perfectly now and the car runs great so far. I wanted to show what I found when I took the old one apart. Attached is a picture of the old 'board' that is inside the TPS. This board is worn out due to one of the wiper arms, that is supposed to have many wiper fingers, gouging the board. I'll post a picture of the 'wiper' that is damaged and caused the problem on the board (it's too large to post both pics in this reply). Vinnie

No, I didn't break it. They do break though. The inner workings of a TPS are a set of electrical contact fingers that rub on an electronic board. The fingers can eventually run thought the board. The fingers can also break. This causes a 'not consistent' reading when checking with a volt or ohm meter. I had an '84 Starion that had a faulty TPS. I took it apart and found a slightly worn out board and, one of 3, broken fingers. Actually it's like one large finger with 3 seperate ends as I remember,,,,,,,, it was a longggggggggggg time ago. Replaced that old TPS and the car ran smooth again like it had not done in a long time. Anyway, any moving part will eventually break. That's life. Vinnie

Anyone know of the best place (cheapest cost) to get a TPS for a Starion? I tried NAPA and their price is about $216.00 I also tried Rockville Mitsubishi and see that they have it for $175.68 I want to make sure I'm not missing a cheaper vendor. Thanks, Vinnie

Payment sent $89.00 One quick question I have,,, just how far can the stock fuel pump deliver? I mean the regulator can go to 60psi but can the stock fuel pump deliver that kind of pressure? I'll be going to a Wal pump soon but for now I'm stock. Vinnie

I'm also in on this one. Please PM me when it's time for payment. Product looks great in the pics. Vinnie

I'm looking for just the turbo exhaust housing already ported for the td05H wheel that is already on my 14G turbo. I don't want to go through the trouble of porting my td05 housing. Send me the cost or if you want to trade a td05 stock housing that I have. Vinnie vinmon@hotmail.com or just pm me here. Thanks,,,,

Ordered 10, 17 degree bend shifters and 1 tranny mount. Paid in full. Vinnie

Hi Jimmy, I need a front one. I was looking at CapitalWheels. Are you familiar with them? I may try and get one from them but they are pricey. They want $200.00 for one rim. Is that another ripoff? Vinnie

I purchased stock rims from this guy for, get this, $700.00! Yeah, a lot of money but I wanted them and he came off like this good guy. Of course he wanted a check first in full. I sent the check and he cashed it quick. I get the rims and they are shipped like pieces of garbage. All have scratches on them and one is so dented you can't possibly use it. I call him up and tell him about the dented rim and that they were shipped poorly. Of course he blames UPS for 'dropping' the box. Has this guy ever mailed out a package before? You don't put something that may get damaged in a crappy box with no padding and blame UPS. Anyway, he tells me to send the rim back and he'll get if fixed. Well he doesn't send the rim to get fixed but he does call UPS and gets back $100.00 for the damage. Now he has $800.00 and I have spent $700.00 plus an extra $20.00 to ship the garbage rim back to him. Then nothing but Bull Shi* from this guy. All this happened in February of 2005. I have loads of emails with him telling me 'You WILL have your rim by Monday!' Months go by and he changes his email and phone number. I call his work number and they tell me he quit. I finally track thia a-hole down by looking at very old email and get him home phone. Now he only has his wife answer just to tell me 'he got in late last night and is sleeping.' He sure found the time to cash my check. He also found time to call UPS to file a claim and get another $100.00 for his poor packaging. But he can't find time to be a man and call me back and do the right thing and send the rim I paid for. Now I'm here with 3 rims and out $720.00 The summer is just about over and I never got to enjoy having these way too expensive rims on my car. This guy used to tell me he's starting a StarQuest business. Do yourself a favor and never do business with this loser. :evil:

I'ld take a 19C at a decent price. Vinnie

Hi Ken, I PM'd you. Vinnie