shift1313

I think it looks pretty good man, but i think there are much more simple ways to accomplish this. The one thing that would concern me is the slotted adjustment. To get a plate like that to hold you will need some serious torque. The fact that you are not bolting into the pillow block but passing through will only make a point contact(3) to hold in place. why is your bottom a two piece setup? So they can be water jet or laser cut? Also why are two of the holes counter-sunk? If you are dead set on the slotted adjustment I would stick two bolts through each slot. Its best to have them bolt into the pillow block housing rather than pass through. It will give you a better bite. One thing that would help is having a ball mill make some perpendicular passes on the mating faces so there is a little extra "grab". here is something i threw together real quick that i think would be a better/easier design. The pillow block is steel with yellow zinc coating and 4 tapped holes. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/camber.jpg

no reason to feel like a fool. Sometimes i scratch my head for a second on seemingly simple things. as long as its together thats all that matters:)

thats very strange. Well not really i guess:)

he doesnt need the adapter plate though. His aftermarket downpipe just had the bung. The sensor isnt anything special. part number 11027 is a universal O2 from advance auto. Its a Bosch unit and its what comes with the $35 deal, just without the adapter plate. Also for anyone replacing their O2 on the stock downpipe. If you buy the one with the adapter plate once, you dont need to buy it again, just get the universal sensor.

I agree with that. Do you think there is really any benefit though to using a WB O2 on a stock ecu? You will still have issues with the stock manifold and fuel distribution between 1-4 and 2-3. I think a WB O2 is great for an aftermarket ecu or as a tuning aid but i dont see a huge benefit in spending $200-$500 on a WB setup to run stock injectors/manifold. Maybe im wrong though, just my feeling on the subject.

are you running the stock ecu for fuel or something else? A single wire or heated o2 reads voltage, the amount of oxygen content. There is a chemical reaction that creates a voltage. .45v or 450mV is stoich. Stock ecu(and AF gauges) read from 0-1v. 1v rich, 0v lean. A sensors accuracy depends on several things. a single wire O2 can cool down during cruising so the heated 02(3 or 4wire) was introduced. A wideband works on a different premise. Instead of monitoring it actually tries to create this reaction and keep everything at .45v. The amount of current pumped into the sensor to do this is closely monitored. Instead of a sample rate with a single wire O2, the Wideband is constantly monitored so there is no lag. Wires: 1 & 2: negative & positive for the heater (controlled by negative) 3: ground 4: pump 5: narrow sensor 6: calibration resistor (located in the sensor) There are DIY WB converters out there. www.diyautotune.com has one i think. You need to relate the signal back to something the stock ecu can use. If you are running an aftermarket ecu, some have wideband inputs and you will be good to go.

a wideband O2 isnt really going to do you much good on a stock ecu. You need a wide band converter, its not a simple sensor that will plug into your ecu. a WB uses 6 wires and its operation is different from a standard O2. If all you need is an 02 sensor just go buy a replacement one for your car. the Bosch ones come with the $15 standard o2 sensor that threads into the bung and a $20 adapter plate that bolts onto the stock downpipe:) If you just get a singlewire 02 for another car you will be fine. You can also upgrade to a heated o2 sensor that will just need power, ground and your signal wire back to the ecu.

also did you ever notice if your tach was jumping during cranking? Pull the connector off the knock box(ic ignitor) on the drivers side fender near the coil. the pins in the connector get corroded and the pins get bent and make bad contact. the black wire going to this connector is the ground. test this wire to see if you have a good chassis ground. If not run a test lead from that wire to the intake ground point or somewhere on the body and give it a go and see what happens.

no crank position sensor for the ecu. The injectors arent "timed" to any valve or cycle. Ignition is totally separate from the ecu. There is a "pickup" in the dist. that goes to the knock box if i remember correctly. If you end up wanting/needing that ecu just shoot me a PM. Ive been checking the board about once a week so i may not get back to you right away.

yup that seems about right for a warm car at idle. Driving mine is just above 1/2 http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/th_harding.jpg

i just happened to be browsing the wilwood site looking for ford 9" rear disc setups and thought id check out their rotor hats and see if anything changed. I came across two hats, one that might work for the 5 lug and one that might work for the 4 lug. This would open up a lot of options. 8 x 7.00" 4 x 4.50" 0.72" .50" 2.72" .25" 5.90" 5/16-18 170-6996 230-8390 8 x 7.00" 5 x 4.50/4.75" 1.43" .52" 3.00" .25" 6.04" 5/16-18 170-7632 230-3484 the titles wont copy over well but here they are Rotor Bolt Circle Wheel Lug Pattern Hat Offset Stud Hole Diameter Center Hole I.D. Face Thickness Clearence I.D. Mount Hole Hat Part Number Rotor Bolt Kit Number I also noticed they make un-drilled hats.

the 83s had a non ac option. i think the bracket was $13 from mitsu if it was still available. The part number is floating around here somewhere. Using the d50 rear gears i think requires the use of extra shims because i think the pinion is a little different(just from what i remember. Im running non AC on my car. I just left the stock bracket on there. If you want you could cut up your stock one(if you dont plan on reusing ac ever) here is a pic of the stock bracket with ac http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/bracketair1.jpg

does it only make the sound with the radio? how about on AM, or with a tape?

thats a good point mike. i know the tach signal wire is shielded going to the ecu. does the tach(dash) come from the ecu, i cant remember.

Wow i was digging back(way back) for an old post and came across this. My 84 ES has velnas in it. It was standard on 84/85 es cars only. I dont know if it was an option or not. It had nothing to do with the door chime(on/off switch under the drivers seat on 84/85 cars) or voice warnings or digi dash. Here is the mitsu theme http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/th_MitsuTheme4.jpg http://filebox.vt.edu/users/maperez/Starion/velnas.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/P9030021.jpg the information was displayed on the clock which says velnas on it. but the clock is still a clock as well. It has functions like miles traveled, average mph, gallons used, mpg, as well as a stop watch/lap timer function and an alarm clock you can set(why i dont know). The velnas is the main reason i havent changed the FI on my car because i would like to keep the mpg thing(mostly for nostalgia). it samples every 30 seconds i believe and as far as i know anyone that has switched the velnas into another car has not been able to get the mpg working. It takes the signal off one of the injectors i believe and calculates based on vehicle speed and other parameters like rpm(maybe).

the ES part wouldnt matter for the ecu, but all ES cars were 5 speeds(which is where the ecus differ). if i remember the pic from your old sig right your car is black with tan interior and had the same rims mine does(15x6.5) es only. Oh an all ES models had the velnas computer below the radio. I know if you have a problem with your harness i think there were 6 different engine harnesses that year(84/85) so hopefully you can track down the wires if thats it. When you were testing the injectors did you squirt anything through them or just listen for them? Here is a pic of the inside of the ecu http://filebox.vt.edu/users/maperez/Starion/85ECULabel.JPG I was able to get specs(or something close for the caps) but never found any info on the bjt(not fets that was my mis-label) used. BUT these are the two main components that would go bad in the injector circuit. Ive traced the board a few times trying to track it down but its very difficult. I was actually getting ready to try to pull the hex dump off the chip about 6 months back when i just pushed the project aside. The BJT(bipolar junction transistor) is the switch and the cap smooths out the signal. These are the components that will ultimately switch the ground off/on. Id say it would be pretty odd for both circuits to fail since they are isolated from each other except for at the chip and the chance of the chip going is slim unless the power control stuff on the board went up. There were a few posts(dont remember which forum, engine mods i think) that i posted info/numbers off the chips and i think a link to a "close" cap. It may be worth cracking your ecu open just to see if you have any noticeable issues.

paid:) I told him I would do it for free but he insists on paying me so who knows. He is family and im glad to do it so money is a mystery. He knows how much time I have in it and what it would cost for a shop to do it bu the whole idea was to save him money. There is already about id say 7k in the truck without rims/tires. Its just nice working on a project that when it needs something, it gets it. Instead of waiting around. And hopefully one of these days ill get back on the big brake stuff for the 5 lug cars since i have a rim, 5 lug hubs, crown vic rotors etc all for mock up.

its actually a 71 tim, but i smoothed all the body lines out and deleted the rear marker lights(which would have given it away as a newer truck) and got rid of all the emblems on the thing. here is the original picture http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Christians%20Truck/Christmas187.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Christians%20Truck/TruckGrill2.jpg ive got hundreds of photos if you want to see http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/sh...stians%20Truck/

you also have the ballast resistor pack inline up behind the pass headlight/airbox. You are correct that the ecu switches ground. Your car is an ES right? the autos and manuals had different ecus. I think i have an 84/85 manual ecu and an auto ecu. Im with tim, its rare for it to go bad. here are the two spares I have but I couldnt tell you if they work or not but i thought they were both 84/85s http://filebox.vt.edu/users/maperez/Starion%20Parts/ECU.JPG before i got my car in 02 i know the previous owner purchased lots of parts to try and figure out the no spark issue(guess they didnt realize the ecu didnt control spark). Do you have an oscope? or an analog multi meter. I dont know if you will be able to see the ground switching without a scope on the injectors but its possible with an analog one(maybe). How did you test the injectors? If you pull the top mixer body off(leaving the fuel line attached) does fuel spray out there? or did you pull the fuel line off to test? Whats the voltage on your tps? Have you tried unplugging the mas and cranking it? If you look up the ecu numbers and think either of those I have will work let me know. Id like to keep them but i dont mind sending them down there for you to test with.

thanks tim. Last time i was just stupid when i built the motor and cut a few corners. Ive got a good block and rotating assembly and im slowly sourcing parts. im going to need a good head/cam for this new motor and thats the last big thing really. I always planned on running alcohol injection and I cam across a good deal(or what i thought was a good deal) on the intercooler. I should have put my big brake money and intercooler/turbo money into the engine and i would be driving the car now:) live and learn a bit off topic but this is what I have been building for the past year for my cousin. He is paying me to do it so i plan on spreading that money around to my projects:) oh and ive been turboing the bike in my sig:) http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Christians%20Truck/RedRim.jpg

i know the pipe that goes around the airbox and connects to the compressor housing is suspect because there is a small slit right at the clamp. im sure that wasnt helping. If i still have the ic setup when i get the new motor done ill replace that line and give it a shot. I was going to build a custom intake and megasquirt the car but id rather keep the velnas MPG feature working so until i figure that out i wont be touching the FI setup.

Tim, i never did pressure test it and since my motor has a knock i didnt drive it very long before i pulled it back off the road. It would still build boost and it would hit max boost for a second but then break up like it was hitting a fuel cut similar to what a few other members mentioned. Im not actively trying to sell the setup but offering it up if someone with a flatty was looking for one. I just figured it would be nice to buy everything in one shot. I do plan on pressure testing the IC at some point I just really havent had the time lately, ive been restoring another car and putting a lot of time trying to get it out the door so i can get back to my own projects again. I still have to finish breaking in my big rotors and id rather focus on suspension/drive train and bodywork rather than HP.

what do you mean super old member:)

I have been very busy with other projects and havent had any time to mess with my car. Its in non IC trim right now(IC still on the car), but ive been thinking of selling it. If anyone is interested let me know. I know i havent been on the board very often but ill try to check back. I have an IC housing, 3port waste gate, IC, all the lines(line around the airbox has a rip at the compressor housing and should be replaced), the brackets I made and the spacers i made to move the oil cooler back behind the hood latch support(all pictured in this post). The only thing i had to do was remove the bottom center air dam support(i think) and drill out the spot welds for the bottom of the coolant overflow. The current coolant overflow bracket is pretty flimsy but you can have that too. my car is a 5speed, dont know how it fits on autos. I cleaned the IC 3 times with MEK but i never had the thing running right on my car. I kept hitting the fuel cut and because of other issues with the care never pursued it. I used mostly factory parts, one of the IC lines was a hose i got from advance because the stock one wouldnt fit. I know this isnt the for sale forum but im not really trying to sell it, just thought if someone was looking to do this they could just grab it all from me(and this lovely instruction manual:)). $150+shipping

for just rollers some of those will work but the offset may cause you issues.