Boosted77.
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Posts posted by Boosted77.
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Yes, my buddy had a good one. Thanks anyways and take care.
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I think I might of found one from a local member. Not sure yet. Thank you for the quick response. I'll let you know mang.
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Hey guys. Just wondering if any one has a good clutch release fork. Mine was a good one until the little fork that slides behind the ball finally broke off. It lasted 217,000 miles. But it trashed a perfectly good Valeo 240mm clutch too. I thought it was a bad throw out bearing so I took the tranny out and installed a new one. Started it back up and the same horrendous sound was still there. Now after looking at the pressure plate, the fingers are all eaten up from, I guess, the clutch fork sliding out of alignment. Grrr.
Please make sure it has the little fork that rivets to the assmbly and is tight and still attached.
So if anyone has one, please respond with a price with shipping to 30046 which is NE of Atlanta, Ga..
Thanks in advance and as always keep it spooled.
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Do you have a good clutch release fork? It needs to have the small riveted flange still connected and not broken off. That's my problem with mine and I just trashed a perfectly good Valeo clutch.
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Thanks mang for a great pic. I set it as my desk top back ground.
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That's what my '86 was until I finally got the $$ together to get it painted the color I always wanted; Viper GTS blue. Luvin it.
And as the factory paint faded, especially under the hood, it turned orangish.
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Oh, you're kid was sad too. He's a car aficionado for sure.
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Even though mine's a Conquest, I gotta admit I don't like people thinking it was made by Dodge, so I always just say it's a Starion since this is associated with Japan and Conquest is associated with America. Plus I always say it's an '88 Starion at parts stores, even though it's an '86. She never reveals here true age, lol.
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Or just cut the old ones out.
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Meh, I just used a bench vice. Pow.
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I run 'em. They're GReeat. lol. My are the dual spring set-up. No clunking. Keep the fender well even with the fenders.
http://www.cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=67&pid=1239
They've had my car in the item pic for a couple years. Kinda cool.
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Get this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2005-Dodge-Neon/Alternator/_/N-jmnnuZ9ci9i
150 amp, lifetime warranty..
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Friggen heck yeah to the 3rd.
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Update: Can't believe how much time I fiddled with it until all I did was change the input to 3.5" MAF. Though the 3" definitely still installed. Instantaneous improvement and the car idles perfect and pulls hard as hell. Just set the mainscale back to about -15 to -20 and try. Car pulls hella hard with afr's in the 14's. Yum. Dyno sheet and vid coming ASAP. Remember a wideband makes this a cinch.
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Eliminating the B.S.'s can be done. You will notice some more engine vibrations at certain RPM's Like 3k at 70 mph is what I remember on my old motor. They do go bad if the motor is old and on a old oil pump.
So basically it's up to you if you want to. I did and the motor was fine. Then this last motor I had rebuilt, I got the "rotating assembly" like crank and rods balanced at the machine shop so there was no need for them anymore.
Get rid of the jet valves.
"Dad" is the man for inexpensive hard parts like what you looking to do.
http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html He is a long-time member of SQC.
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It comes with really nice wire taps and crimp on connectors. Leave the factory O2 sensor installed and wired (only) to the ECU. Connect the purple O2 wire from the 2ng gen Maf-t and connect it to the wideband.
Okay here's where it is as of now. AEM EUGO installed last night, finally. I have no idea why I waited so long to install the darn thing. I've had it sitting around for too long.
The learning curve has been kinda steep since most guys go with the 1st gen translator. I've learned enough and played around with the unit to do another write-up.
This is how it's set up now with the 3" GM MAF.
The only thing that needs to change about the installation are the brown V1 and grey V2 wires.
Leave them unhooked and set the V1 and V2 wires to "Use Setpoint" as the parameters as these have to stay constant when running the GM 3" MAF.
Using the WB, set you're desired AFR per RPM band and you can then watch the unit doing it's corrrections while watching the the gauge AFR. It stays pretty darn steady.
It was breaking loose in the rain tonight in third gear. This is also with new tires, and about 150 lbs of stereo equipment in the trunk.
Guys, this things doin' the do. Lol.
http://fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+050transgen2+eq++Tp+
http://fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+0501GADAPT+eq++Tp+
You can get the 3" MAF off of a bunch of cars:
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107897
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Thanks guys for the input and link. Okay, so there is another source for the info. Schweet.
I was asking because I was going back over the wiring for the Gen II I run on my '86 that's been converted to '88 and noticed the FAQ being kinda screwy.
You guys are the best...as always. Thanks mangs.
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I know this is kinda late to post, but I have the same cam. The one with the purple dot, which I have, is the HR70 cam; I think that's the correct denotation. I bought it from TEP many years ago and it has been in the car basically since then.
On the last lobe there is some degradation. It looks like what Tim C's saying. There is a slight groove in the lobe.
I ran roller rockers on the cam for about 200 miles about 8 years ago and then removed them because the car was running so bad. I think that's what did it.
Though I have to say, after all these years and 1000's upon 1000's of miles, it's never gotten any worse.
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Hey guys. I noticed probably last year that the 86-88 ecu conversion topic located in FAQ is corrupted. Meaning the text looks really weird. Is it just me?
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=28050
Can a MOD fix it? I know what it should say. I PM'd Tim C. about it but that's been a long time ago...no response.
Okay.
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I like the one with less screws. Decent valeo factory clutch with about 6000 miles. Still won't spin even at 18 psi. Fidanza's are a great upgrade. I stumbled upon mine from a website that had them for $250 back a few years ago. 2nd clutch now, no problems. The first clutch exploded while at import showdown. It didn't do squat to the FW.
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I've been running a Fidanza on my SQ for several years now. The only thing it would do from time to time is the RPM's would drop so fast that the car would die. But with the addition of the 2nd Gen Maf-T and some tuning it no longer does this. The car revs like a dirt bike and I would (not) re-install the stock flywheel.
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It's kinda like a running a Cowl-induction hood on a Conquest. Most guys who run cowl induction hoods ran them on Conquests, not Starions. Why? Because they think it's a Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth which would mean it's a domestic vehicle. It just doesn't fit imo on a Japanese car. No offense but Cowl induction hoods look stupid on these cars and belong on Mustangs.
Curb feelers are for those big lumbering old cars, not a small nimble Japanese sports car. It just looks weird.
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Yeah, nice design. As said before, if only Mits. would have designed a MPI set-up in the beginning, this car would of had such a stronger following and support. That was the main thing that got blasted was the funky TBI set-up. Still today when a guy looks at my car, more often then not they say, "where are the fuel injectors"? Or, "this thing has only two injectors"?
Chad's '86 to '88 ECU conversion (fixed)
in Electrical System
Posted
Helloo from a long time no see member. Boosted77 here. I needed to use Chad's info recently that has been messed up due to a font error that stems from (i think) when the site was hacked several years ago.
http://www.starquest...showtopic=28050
Here's the topic with the content fixed so that it can be a little more easy to read:
86 TSI: A connector
1: IGN - (negative)
2: AFS
3: n/c
4: GND (AFS)
5: Intake temp
6: Coolant temp
7: Idle SW
8: Motor Position SW
9: Pressure to gage
10: +5 volt power
11: O2 sensor
12: Ignitor signal
13: n/c
14: n/c
15: TPS
16: n/c
17: Intake temp (OVCP)
18: n/c
19: speed (coil)
20: n/c
21: Diag. Output
22: control relay (fuel pump)
23: secondary air (for catalyst)
24: pressure solenoid
86 TSI B connector:
1: +12V
2: GND
3: GND
4: EGR
5: IGN (cranking)
6: AC relay
7: +12V
8: Inhibitor
9: ISC + (out)
10: Injector # 1
11: ISC - (in)
12: Injector # 2
13: +12V backup
88 TSI A connector:
1: IGN - (negative)
2: AFS
3: Motor position SW (from A 8)
4: GND
5: Intake temp
6: Coolant temp
7: Idle SW
8: n/c
9: n/c
10: +5 volt power
11: O2 sensor
12: ISC - (in) from B 11
13: Ignitor advance
14: Sensor +5 backup
15: TPS
16: Barometric sensor (New wire run to AFS from '88 ECU)
17: n/c
18: n/c
19: Speed (coil)
20: secondary air (catalyst)
21: Diag. Output
22: control relay (fuel pump)
23: ISC + (out) (from B 9)
n/c       24: AC relay
88 TSI B connector:
1: +12 V
2: GND
3: GND
4: EGR
5: IGN (cranking)
6: AC switch
7: +12 V
8: inhibitor
9: Boost guage
10: Injector 1 (primary)
11: Ignitor signal (from A 12)
12: injector 2 (secondary)
13: +12 V backup
since a different MAS is needed to convert, you may as well step up to a 1-G DSM MAS, they are cheaper and work quite a lot better.
86 AFS to DSM AFS:
green/red----green/orange
red----green/red
black----green/black
white/black----green/blue
new > A 16 to green/yellow
new > +12 Switched to red
n/c----green/white
Notes:
n/c means no connection
>From A 8 means remove from stock 86 connector and relocate to the 88 pin number
>On two pins, you will have to cut the wires and solder on the pin from the A or B connector, these connectors use different pins, you will have the pins you need when you start to move them. Some move from A to B, and some from B to A. Some leads may be left over, these are pins not used (if you eliminate the secondary air and the stock boost gage)
This conversion also requires an 87/89 ISC assembly. The new ISC requires a +5 V supply and a ground for the new functions, because the MPS converted from a simple switch to a potentiometer, you need 2 additional wires. However, the mitsu engineers decided to add 3 wires instead, and the 3rd is un-used at the ISC end, it is the blue/yellow and literlay has no physical connection at the ISC end, either in the ISC nor in the connector itself so don't bother with it.
looking at the diagrams, it shared the common ECU ground in 87/89's, so ground it anywhere. same for the +5 V, it connects to a common supply, so just find 5V at the ECU or at some other component like the TPS which is just inches away.
So here's what you need to do:
looking at the 87 ISC, you have a connector that has black/red, black/green and black/blue, this is the motor and idle SW. It connects as follows to the 86 harness:
87 ISC motor :
87 ISC black/red to 87 harness yellow/black (splice here) to 86 harness green/white
87 ISC black/green to 87 harness yellow/lbue (splice here) to 86 harness black/yellow
87 ISC black/blue to 87 harness yellow/red (splice here) to 86 harness yellow/red
now you have the 4 pin connector with green/red, blue/red, black, and blue/yellow, this is the new MPS circuit and connects as follows:
87 MPS:
87 ISC red to 87 harness green/red (splice here) to new +5 volts
87 ISC green to 87 harness blue/red (splice here) to 86 harness green/black
87 ISC black to 87 harness black (splice here) to new ground
87 ISC red jumper to 87 harness blue/yellow to N/C < don't mess with this one
leave the pins at the ECU where they are, they are correct, you simply need to add the 87 ISC, splice the 87 harness to the 86 harness where is says "splice here", and wire in the +5 and the ground
To complete this conversion it would help to look over the '86 and '88 electrical scematics.
Lastly to count the pins start from the Large "A" harness and contains the large white wire which is the ignition coil negative (on the front and left of the harness plug while facing down) and count to the right then horseshoe around to the next closest wire on the second row.
Enjoy and sticky!
Keep it Spooled Starquesters.