jr

Hey all, I'm back on my yearly attempt to finish up my 89 that has been converted to MPI. I went through hades trying to to get it tuned, to find out I was having fuel pres issues. I replaced my Walbro, with another brand new walbro, and it was going good, then died again. I finally found I had a LOT of rust in the tank, so it was killing my my pumps. So I found a another tank that is better that my 89, but not perfect. question - how much rust is too must? This one has light rust on the baffle area, is that ok? Is it going to keep rusting once it has fuel in it? Any other suggestions? thanks!!!!

Ha, funny to see this here. I bought the gas tank for my 89 tsi that has a rust infested tank, but I'm afraid this one is not as clean as I was hoping once I started to rinse it out, a lot of rust start coming out... augh. Anyone dealt witht that here? I probably should post in the virtual mechanic forum I suppose... Cool deal, glad someone bought the whole car, it's not in too horrible of condition, but it does need a good bit of work, paint, etc....

When you say, low exactly how much of a drop would this place on a Starion? I have Eibachs now, and it has always driven me nuts how the front is higher than the back with them..

Hi - just saw your post sorry. How much do you want for it, shipped to 33544? I Don't really need \ want the pump, I'm going with a Walbro or MSD, not sure which yet.... thanks!

yeah, possibly if i can't find one closer. Really, I'll have to do a cophers run to check that out then.... When did you hear that? I don't think they will tell you what they have, so I'll have to swing by to check, thanks for the tip!!!!

Hey all, I'm looking for a clean gas tank, or a fuel cell that could be mounted on a starion, mines diseased with rust from sitting so long. I'm in Tamp Bay, Fl... Willing to drive the area for a clean tank, or possibly work out shipping, though I'm sure thats not cheap... thanks

Anyone got a parts car in the Tampa Bay area? I need a Gas tank that has no rust in it, I've been fighting the rust demons and losing on mine..... Anyone? thanks!

ANyone have an 88 or 89 with Black Cloth that they want to sell some parts out of??

Yup, Think I got it... Man it takes some time to get these tables decent in every area. Especially when you have a hard time finding a volunteer that will drive around aimlessly with you, lol... Isn't the CAS what they call it for the aftermarket systems when you eliminate the Dist? Thanks again!! Jesse

Set that adjustment to 0 on the timing light and check the base timing. Adjust your CAS until you get your desired base timing. What motor is this for? If I set it to 0, won't that be the same as using a non-adjustable timing light? Judging from Brown's post as well, it 'sounds like' we did it right setting the gun to the advance we wanted, and then looking for TDC with it. I haven't tried putting it to 0 and then checking it again, I'll have to try that next I guess. This is for a mits 2.6, is that what you are asking? Thanks! Jesse

OK. This really makes me feel dumb, but I'm really confused with my timing. First, what is the big difference between a Standard timing gun and an adjustable one? I'm not sure that I have the sensor angle position set correctly in my ECU settings, and the guy I purcahsed the ECU from said it was Critical that I used an adjustable timing light to find out what advance I'm running. So, How do you use one of those things? I borrowed a friends (it was his fathers, so he didn't know how to use it either :? ) and we set it to 12 degrees, with my motor idling and thinking it was at 12 degress, we then adjusted the crank angle setting in the ECU until the timing light was marking TDC. Is that right? I don't understand why a normal timing light wouldn't be fine if thats the case, and you just wait for it to mark 12degress on the case markings....

Ok, I feel, like I'm talking to myself here, but thought I would continue to update. I kept playing with the fuel, and ignition maps, and started playing with the "pressure compensation" maps, and this seems to have been the cause of the motors stumbling. I changed them all to "0" for testing, and It raises from idle without a stumble now, so that is looking better. It has some popping misfires if I accelerate too fast, so I think I will have to go back to the ignition maps again. I've played with them soo much, they probably way off now... more fun to be had...

Just an update, I greatly reduced the agressivness of my ignition map last night, it stays at 12 deg until 2k rpm, and works its way up to a maximum advance of about 25 deg at 6k rpm. Here's what I not, from idle at a fairly steady 900 rpm, if I press the gas a _slowly_ as I can, the engine will die. If I floor it from idle, it will choke, then rev up pretty cleanly. I've played around with the fuel for a while in the low RPMs, and have now tried the ignition... Any ideas out there? thanks! jesse

I'm using the DTA e48 from http://www.dtafast.co.uk/ , so I appreciate the offer, but it probably wouldn't help. Does the SDS have a PC tunung version where you can 'see' the maps? I'd love to look at shot of someone elses. PErhaps someone running a haltech willing to share? Chad, Just curious, what kind of numbers is your car putting down?

hmm... Still having some odd 'choking' issues, seemingly no matter what I do with the fuel in that area. I can definitley make it worse if I keep adding more though, lol... I think the default map I'm using may be advancing the timing too quickly. Could some one post a screen shot of their timing map? Also, do ECU's normally map their timing off of the TPS & RPM, or MAP & RPM? Its setting I can change in my ECU, the default is TPS, so that is what I've been doing... thanks again! Jesse

Hi Mike, thanks for the reply. I did play with that setting, but it hasn't helped, yet anyway. If I press the pedal really slowly, the motor will actually stall though. I have to punch it to get it past the bad spot, then it revs smoothly. Maybe I have it set too sensitive? If you experienced something like that, maybe I'll try playing with that more. I think the TPS is OK, the ECU status screen actually shows % of throttle, and it seems to corealate correctly to the pedal position... hey, may ask what water temp you / others are targeting? thanks!

Welp, I've now put about 1 hour of drive time on my 89 MPI!!! It's great feeling. Have the wastegate disconnected, so no boost until I can sort things out better. I'm having some bad stumbling problems when first accelerating from any speed. The engine stumbles, and almost dies, then suddenly recovers and sounds/feels great. jr_ss, or anyone else, any suggestions? I 'think' my problem is mostly ignition, but I'm not certain. I know everyone is using differnt ECU's, but if it's possible, I'd love to see somone elses timing curve. Maybe a screen shot of the table, etc? Thanks in advance for any help.

Thanks, yeah, not to scare anyone, I was planning on having a friend help with tuning. I just wondered if anyone dyno tuned or not. I can change parameters every 250 rpm. It free rev's fairly smooth right now with a slight stumble at about 2500 rpm. Good idea with some interstate runs. What did that wideband run you guys? Thanks for the number onefastconquest. Does he dyno tune cars? 5bat map, eh? That sounds scarey. What kind of head you going to run?? I know when Sakura was running a factory head he was cracking them nearly every run with boost in the 50psi range. Are you looking to be road, or race only? Just curious.... My biggest concern in self tuning is getting the ignition curve to a effective, and safe point, but I must say I'm happy so far...

Well, I've made more progress since the last post. I haven't driven it yet, but does it sound good just getting revved in the garage. Idle's nice now, and has a few stumbles, but it revs nicely now. The Motor seems to respond SOOO much better than it ever did running a TBI. Maybe the 70mm Throttlebody, or just the extra fuel? I don't know, but I'm happy so far. Does anyone with MPI run a Stebani Flywheel? I bet the reponse of the motor would be awesome, I have one but haven't installed it yet. So, anyone have any tuning tips? Did you guys just tune while driving, or?? thanks!! Jesse

Ok, I know I'm rediculously slow, but she fired up today!!! Just idled it for a few, need to get water in the motor, and change the old oil... Wheh, this is now officially exciting again!!! Jesse

Ahhhh, I think I have found it. I found a fairly heavy guage, single black (with stripe) wire with a single terminal on it. So I just have to wire my relay to apply 12v+ to this thing wire, under the ECU's control of course, right? Thanks!!! Jesse.

Ok, I spent a good hour trying to fing the fuel pump wiring in the car, I'm really confused. Where which harness is it that goes to the pump? It's not the one over the glove box, is it? ??? thanks!

Awesome, thanks! The Fuel pump ones are Black, and did you mean white? Where did you find those wires, are they in the harness above the glove box? I actually bought a few brand new relays off of ebay with harnesses, they are four wire, I figured I'd need them for something. I was hoping to using the stock guages initially, but I may not now. I already have a full set of Autometer's that I bought, so maybe I'll just do that now as well. Are either of you still running AC?? Any issues?

OK, that wasn't too bad at all. I was able to get it out by just lowering the glove box and pulling it though, didn't have to take the fender off. I will need to do the fuel relay as well, where did you have to tap into for it, the harness that goes under the dash towards the drivers side? Anything else I need to worry about? Thanks!!! Jesse.

Hey all, people that have gone with stand alone ECU's, can you remove the wireharness that runs along the passenger side of the car to the factory ECU, or is needed for something? I'm thinking it can be removed, but want to make sure others have done it. Thanks! Jesse