by_reQUEST

I have actually experienced much higher gains with more overlap in higher HP situations. I have yet to dig into my Conquest yet but when I was building Taurus SHO's for a living the high duration high overlap cams made a LOT more power over all when supercharged. I wouldn't recommend it for someone who is planning on running like 300 hp or so but if you are trying to squeeze out every drop id go with the bigger one. I want a high overlap/duration cam that is roller....then I would be set

I messed mine up I need the entire unit. Slipped out of my hands and broke apart. I would really really really prefer one with a clear nice lens and one that has been unmolested for a late model. I have an 89. I can buy or trade some NR auto black with red numerals gauge faces for it.....

damn and to think I gutted my clock to put the turbo timer in there......

I have three brand new AC Autotechnic S7 gauges for sale. I had ordered these 2 years ago and never opened the boxes, I am now ready for install and they are the chrome faced ones and I need the black faced ones. They look good just wont work with my interior as well. The gauges have a plain face and light up when the ignition is turned on, pretty cool me thinks- plus they are accurate gauges. They have never been used and are brand new. I have : 1) Boost gauge 2) Oil Pressure Gauge 3) Water Temp Gauge $50 each. *I cant get on here at work so you will have to email me for faster response!* fastsho1@mindspring.com http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y134/shawnp92sho/pic030707_3.jpg

I will take one with 3 holes please

Yeah I actually brought this up abotu 7 months ago... there would be a ton of weight saved if we replaced those huge front and rear K frame with tubular ones.....

That was a pretty rough job getting to everything. I guess I am going to go ahead and replace all of the vacuum lines while I am there.... I dont want to do this again...much rougher than american cars LOL

I have done it several times before just not on this car

yeah I dont have a manual, I keep meaning to buy one but I keep forgetting. ok I will check it out...

I didnt think it should go in VM becasue I am not asking how to remove teh heater core really.....just the dash pad. I have al of the lower screws out, ,the entire console is out ofthe car, the gauge cluster is outof the car...but its not budging...

So apparently I have the last aftermarket heater core in the country fomr any of our vendros here at work. I am having a hell of a time getting the main dash pad off.... I removed all of the lower screws, console gauge cluster, the two bolts behind the side defrost vents..... what else..i dont want to tear up a perfect dash pad becasue I was too proud to ask....

that would rock... I bet if they weigh as much as I think they do... I bet we could shave off 50lbs or more easily.......

iw as thinking about how I could make the car a bit more nimble or even light on its feet.... There has to be a decent amount of weight to be lost in replacing the front K member with a tubular one... and especially the rear one... I know it would all be custom made but I have a guy who could do it no problem and he is not all that expensive ( he builds pro stock cars as well) I wonder how much weight could be saved any one have any weight figures for either or both of those frames?

wouldnt it be great to have a list of vendors and websites for easy referral? I can never find the individual websites and when I do it takes waaayy too much time Shawn

sorry been locked off of this site for awhile...... iw ill get the info and post it

ok the more custom it is the more it will cost as far as design. I should hear back from my friend today.

I am having a custom aluminum overlay on the console at the shifter, custom for the radio including 2 gauges and my turbo timer and boost controller. this is my custom need but I can get a standard one if so desired. I will get them to send me a picture of what mine will look like and if you guys can give me some suggestions of what you want I will take the average and have them design that. I will get cost if you guys can give me some info on what you want to see.

hey just out of curiosity those with the speedhut gauge faces... where did you run teh wires outof the cluster? I was using the holes on teh upper corners for the lights but i dont want my needles to be dim at night.... I thought about drilling new holes but Iw as cutious to se what others did.

these actually do add power on a lot of vehicles. for example on non-boosted applications and non V8's ( mustangs get 10-15 wheel hp) I used to be really big into Taurus SHO work, they actually dynod 8 whp with the pulley. I mean nothing you can feel but hey it will rev very nicely. iam sure I will get one.

oh yeah I would take one, I have my timer/ controller mounted in teh tray and trying to figure out how to mount the gauges unfder the radio and makeit look good

yeah I havea n aftermarket with a remote going in, and i had a brain fart per say when I asked that question lol. I personally perfer to just use an adapting harness. I have a plug and all now to solder back in to hte mess they had made of it.

Andy got to me first

I'll give this thing away if anyone wants it. just pay shipping

I like the fact I can do 10.5" in teh rear but I am not sure I still like the idea of a 1" spacer..i suppose i dont hve much choice tho huh. lol

I just have 0 expereince with wheel spacers adn want to make sure they will be safe for driving and racing use. thats my only concern.