Jump to content

GoldStar

Members
  • Posts

    203
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Posts posted by GoldStar

  1. On 2/21/2024 at 7:01 PM, tux said:

    Edited* 2/28

    I received my front subframe today!  It looks to be of good quality.

    I was refunded for the rack and we agreed he will contact me when he has a rack in hand I will purchase the rack from him.  If the time comes to install the subframe before he has one ready, I might reach out to flamingriver and have them make one for me.

    I am also willing to purchase additional parts from him like I planned, if they are in stock and ready to ship within a day or two.

    Tomorrow is our court date so I will let the courts know I have been made whole.

    Wow, he got that one in by the skin of his teeth. I wonder if he finally got replacements for those welders he says he lost during the move.

    • Like 1
  2. There's so many people in the Facebook groups, but this place is a wealth of information with write-ups that can actually be found here with relative ease. I've seen a couple guys try to do write-ups in the Facebook groups, but they immediately get lost in all the chatter, so people don't know they exist unless they know exactly what to search for. Want to do my part to keep this place alive, so once I gather the funds, I'm planning to document my restore here.

    The upshot to the 2015 crash is that these cars stopped being produced in the 80s lol.

  3. On 12/11/2023 at 4:09 PM, BKB94 said:

    Did a quick alignment so I could tighten up my cam bolts. Seems the right side has some issues that I can't fix without caster plates. 

    IMG_9098.jpg

    On the front when I start to pull the right wheel front to add caster the wheel is now leading the other wheel (set back) this is not good and the cross member has 0 slop in it to adjust it there. The rear right is maxed out on the toe cam and I can't get it into a + number and it has a lot of - camber also. Not going to worry about it until she has some drive time and see if things settle. 

          Decided to weigh the car and corner scale it to see if we have any issues there. I'm at 2824 with a running car 5 gallons of fuel, missing parts are spare tire, fenders, front bumper, hood, headlights. I don't know if that's even 150 pounds to add. Now the scales I built myself and they have been accurate to around 40 pounds, I'm more than happy with that for what I paid to build them.

    LF 804lbs     RF 768lbs     RR 700lbs     LR 600LBS

    F 54.7%     R 45.3% Full tank of gas will really improve this.

     I will try and get some height measurements and see if I can shim up the LR a bit to get better weight distribution. 

     

    For the front caster, the torque arm doesn't have enough threads to even it out?

  4. Welcome. Yeah see that thread regarding NDD; I was able to (eventually) get a complete set of control arms out of them, but the process was borderline teeth-pulling. I really hope they get their stuff together, because I really want that front subframe for a rack conversion.

    On 11/25/2023 at 7:35 PM, Grendel said:

    I also can't post pics here, but eventually this will be my build thread. 

    For posting pics, check out this thread:

     

  5. I second the BOV; I had a very similar issue with a non-crushed DSM BOV, it wasn't holding vacuum at idle. I confirmed it by blocking the opening "horn" with my hand and watching the engine idle noticeably smoother. My AFR gauge also jumped from 10:1 to around 12-13:1.
    Also FWIW I run my BOV off of a port coming off of the intake crossover pipe, it's never been the source of problems for me.

  6. For me, I ended up personally reaching out to them a few times, but I eventually got the bushings (and some extras) I needed from them to finish the control arms:
    Axr9jHs.jpg

    Here's a closer pic I took of the spares for reference; they're the larger of the two sizes I got:
    1AYzWyL.png

    Unfortunately for me, I won't be able to test out these control arms for a long while. After pulling the pan to investigate an intermittent oil pressure issue, I found out why the previous owner used so much RTV on the pan gasket; my crankcase pressure was too high and blew out the seal the next time I got into boost. I decided at that point it's officially time to really start digging into my quest. Currently getting the pieces together to pull the engine & trans to rebuild them while I look for a shop that is willing to do a ground-up repaint on something of this vintage.

    • Like 1
  7. Yeah old fuel isn't going to affect fuel pressure. It's either that fuel pump dying or the fuel pressure regulator going out.
    I believe those Trilogy FPRs are adjustable. See if the adjusting nut at the bottom is loose; it could be "adjusting" itself when the engine is running.

  8. 5 hours ago, Contsis said:

    Is it guaranteed bad alternator if  engine stops by disconnecting the battery?

    Measuring batt voltage at terminals with car running (just under 12 v).

    Yes; provided you're not shorting the positive/negative cables to each other, the engine should stay running with the battery removed. A battery with no load should be reading ~12.6 volts. While running, a functional alternator should bring that to 13-14 volts.
    Not to make you feel old, but 2008 was 15 years ago; that's enough time for even a new alternator to fail, much less a remanufactured unit.

    You can still get new and reman units for the stock 75 amp capacity, but if you're one of those guys running aftermarket cooling fans (like me), this would probably be a good time to look into a higher-amp unit provided your wiring isn't too hacked up. I recently upgraded to a 90 amp alternator from a 1995 Hyundai Accent with the 1.5l (Denso 2116012) and it works great. Had to reuse and drill out my old alternator pulley to 17mm, but otherwise it was a bolt-on upgrade.

  9. Close, my bet's on the torque tube splines themselves. Pull the torque tube and re-grease the splines. This is how I did mine. Didn't eliminate the clunk completely, but made a huge difference.
    4VPOrZD.jpg

    Probably wouldn't hurt to do the torque tube bearing while you have it out, it's real easy:

     

  10. Depends on where they are leaking. If the plastic is cracked, they're toast. Otherwise you should be able to have them cleaned. I've had a good experience with RC Fuel Injection/RC Engineering. I do have aftermarket Delphi injectors, but they got them all cleaned up just the same.
    If they end up being too far gone to be saved, madman Mikie is now offering replacement fuel injectors: https://mksmotorsport.com/product/g54b-replacement-fuel-injectors/

  11. Welcome back.

    From what I gather, our turbos are still pretty standard, so any turbo shop should be able to handle them. I had a good experience with Forced Performance, but they are local to me. I'm sure there's a good shop closer to you.


    Also the pictures aren't working for me either. The forum re-launch greatly reduced the max file upload size. Check this out to use Imgur for image hosting:

     

  12. 16 hours ago, tux said:

    That stinks.  I find it strange they wouldn't use similar bushings to what's in the mks or mk1 kits.

     

    They do look very nice though.

    yeah I kinda wanted to try pulling the MKS bushings out of my current control arms, but I didn't want to immobilize my car on a hunch

  13. I bought a set of rear control arms from them through MKS as he started to support them around the time of his site re-design.
    I put in the order on 2/27, didn't receive the control arms themselves until 4/28. However, when I got them, one of the bushings (NDD makes their own) was missing the inner metal sleeve, and another mount on the control arm was completely missing it's bushing. I notified Mikie of this when I got them in, and he's followed up with them multiple times since, but I'm still waiting for NDD to send me the missing bushing/sleeves.
    The control arms themselves look high-quality to me (I'll see if I can get some pictures when I get time) but this exchange with them so far sucks. I'm really hoping it's just growing pains/unexpected demand.

  14. If you just want a Mitsubishi-branded one, I feel like you should be able to get any mid-2000s blank key from a Mitsu dealer and have them cut it to match, unless even those don't have the diamonds on them anymore. Worst case scenario it'll have a little transponder inside, which won't affect anything.

  15. 16 minutes ago, Brian McGuire said:

    still runs good on  wide band air and fuel gauge when cold but when warms up leans way out

    To be clear, are you using your wideband's narrowband output as your ECU's O2 sensor input? I've heard people having problems doing this.

    Otherwise, it sounds to me like it's a vacuum leak somewhere. Kinda lines up with the A/C being on; more load on the engine=less vacuum to leak. I'd set the MAF-T to base and start spraying brake cleaner around the intake piping/vacuum lines while watching the wideband output to see if it spikes rich at any point. I had a similar issue that ended up being a 1G DSM recirc valve being set up like a blow-off valve; leaked vacuum when it got warm.

×
×
  • Create New...