woodstock

serious buyer, very interested! call me (814) 969 9879 jason

Looking for a set of working injectors!

Right, sealed injectors. Makes me wonder what it is they actually do when they "rebuild" them. But It seems like everyone has alot of luck with it so, I guess they just have the magic touch

You guys were right, I had my eye on the hazard flasher. opps Turn signal flasher clearly isnt working now that I know which is which. Thanks

Will check it out, thanks

Okay thanks for the advice guys. I have a set im purchasing from a master mechanic, he says they work. big starquest fan I used to work with. So I will get those, then send my current set to be rebuilt.

The turn signals light up but do not flash. they do flash when hazzard lights are activated. no bulbs are out, and the flasher fuse is good. Is the turn signal switch combined with the turn signal lever on the steering column?

I understand they are old, car parts only last so long, especially a fragile part like that. but does anybody recommend anything aftermarket? Not rely performance based, I have along way to go before that lol. Or is oem my best bet

Any aftermarket up grades to the factory injectors? Something maybe a little more reliable, our injectors seem to have issues huh?

yeah thats what I thought, thanks. that key wont turn untill its changed.

right, thanks guys. no fuel in the pressure regulator vacuum hose, I can suck on the hose and it holds vacuum pressure. Not running the motor that is for sure, I have the injectors un-plugged, the high pressure fuel line disconnected, and no battery. But what your telling me is the fuel/oil mix will still kill bearings just sitting there, not running? Also, there is a small leak around the plastic part of the injector, fuel on outside of TB. According to what Ive read those injectors are wasted, shouldn't waste time or money cleaning or "rebuilding" correct? I have a used, working, factory set for 100$ off a conquest to buy.

I think I have my issue nailed down. Car does not start, will sometimes run on secondary injector. Spark and fuel are good up to the injectors. My oil is heavily diluted with fuel. the FPR is good, holds vacuum, dosent leak gas The spark plugs were fowled badly and replaced, I noticed a small drop of fuel off primary injector. While cranking both injectors spray HARD. Seems to be a very small leak, if any, out of the primary. Could a very small leak dilute the oil that much, and prevent the car from starting by flooding engine with fuel? Also, what should injector spray look like while cranking?

If you have access to compressed air. You could grind down the rust with a 20$ angle grinder, apply conversion coating (rust treatment, mentioned above) give the conversion coating a good sanding, scotch-brite the surrounding area and finish off with some rattle can primer, sand, rattle can paint. that would be my advice to the cheapest solution possible, if its truly only surface rust. Its amazing what can be done with rattle can paint if done correctly. OR.. just clear it. sell it for 40,000$ (ha) good luck

Hacking the floor pan would cause structural issues, its a structural part in a uni-body. Like an egg shell, take one part out and it becomes very weak. The same way the rear clip of a vehicle flaps about with the quarter panel off, jack that same car up from the rear and the entire car seems to bend. Cut up your trunk pan, slide around a turn, and your entire car is crooked, with the quarters all wavy and bent. hmmm.... Please dont hack your baby up, she dosent want it, neither do we

NICE CATCH. Most would have put that into the wall.

Having a master mechanic I used to work with in Cleveland come down to Erie to help me out, he has an 89 conquest. wish me luck guys

the resistance reading on the coolant temp sensor should change when measured in hot water correct? mine did not, should that sensor be bad, the engine would run very rich correct, causing a no start condition, or a barely running engine on one injector. also could cause a normal reading on the temp gage with an overheated engine. correct?

ran some carb cleaner through the injectors, it all came out clear, didn't have access to an air compressor though.

thanks man thats actually a much simpler way to do it. will give it a shot. trying to not give up, just starts to get to you when you work on the damn thing 8-5 everyday. just graduated college, it was supposed to be a fun project. Im more of a body guy than a mechanic. If I manage to get it running I will start posting some pictures.

No, that is the last thing I'm doing. They are in my house waiting until I have the money or supplies. Other than that I am done.

Well thanks for the help. I officially give up for good. Such a cool car to. Sucks..

oh well thank you. A little out of my league at this point but I will see what I can do. Any thoughts or advice?

If I had info like what kind of voltage there should be at the injector harnesses, resistance of the injectors ect I could probably figure it out. but starquestgarage.com dosent have the

I got the car to run (very poorly) with the secondary injector unplugged it was rough but ran and idled under its own power could anybody tell me what that could mean???

I found the timing chain access hole on the timing cover, the chain was good and tight. SO now ive discovered that when I unplug the fuel injectors, I can get the car to run for a minute by spraying carb cleaner in the TB. ideas?!