FieroGTFan

Brian is great, I bought injectors off of him and I know I was a pain for awhile asking why the car wasn't running right and such. He gladly worked with me and completely helped me out with the issue.

Hey guys, I have a 89' Conquest, and I am in kind of a pinch here, wondering if anyone has a throttle position sensor actuator. I was trying to do a test of my TPS today and the voltage was reading the same, no matter how it was turned. I took the TPS off and sure enough the arm was broken. If anyone has a good one or and idea of what to do it is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Why are other people able to run this setup then? I agree with what you are saying believe me. I just wish I could figure out why others can run the setup, yet my car doesn't like it at all.

Hey guys, So I have a major issue that has stumped me. I bought two new injectors for my 89' Conquest. I installed the injectors and when the primary is hooked up, the car barely runs and searches the rpms from 100-2000 rpms, literally feels like it is going to shake the car apart. When I switch clips and plug the secondary injector into the primary clip, the car runs fairly well. Occasionally a miss, probably from being way rich, but idles dead at 850rpms. With the factory injectors in the car. It runs fine. Perfect idle no hesitation. Just curious if anyone had any ideas. Primary is a 750cc, secondary is a 1000cc. Thank you

Embarrassing, but after messing around long enough I noticed the throttle body spring was totally dry and wasn't returning. I was able to pull it back into place then I lubed the spring. Thanks guys sorry for the worthless post. Haha

Hey guys, spent a ton of time getting everything together and finally started the car after timing chain, BSEK, and turbo rebuild. All of a sudden I didn't have spark. Turns out it was how the last guy messed with the O2 sensor which was causing a short. I started the car and it was running very well, I think proceeded to back out of the driveway pulsing the gas to pull out, then I let off and the car kept climbing in RPM's. I shut it off and made sure everything was okay, then tried to start it again, immediately the car started revving and it went above 3k. I tried searching but had no luck and also didn't know what to search exactly. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks.

I bought the car last summer and was tearing it apart to fix the timing and found this, but don't worry I'll make sure to use distilled water with the coolant, or a good premixed antifreeze.

Hey guys, After attempting to search for this I could not find anything, however I didn't really know what to search for so that probably didn't help. Here's the issue, I am trying to bring the old lady (89' SHP Quest) back to life and after pulling the water pump I found all sorts of gunk caked up where the impeller spins within the block as well as on the water pump itself. I have some pictures below, I am thinking it is simply old antifreeze, however I don't wanna risk anything. Thank you in advance.

Thanks a lot guys feeling much better about this now. I was told the engine was "rebuilt" less than 10k miles ago. Whatever that "rebuild" consisted of I don't know for sure, I tried to get the information out of the previous owner but he didn't seem to know either and there I was thinking I was getting a deal with a "rebuilt" motor. I was planning on dropping the pan to make sure there was no serious amount of metal shavings in there.

Okay good to know. I was planning on dropping the pan anyway, should I just leave it off to take the timing cover off? Would that always help with clearance? Also, would you suggest replacing the stock oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge to get a more accurate reading? I am in no way planning on making a racecar, just a simple car to drive on the weekends. Thanks

I had read in another post about the timing that the head did not have to be removed, so you are saying this isn't true? Pulling the head isn't a huge deal, but I had read that I didn't have to pull it and I would like to leave it that way if possible... I need to redo the timing because I have a tensioner problem of some sort, I can the hear the slack of the chain making an odd noise behind the cover. Also, oil pressure is very low, so I need to drop the pan and make sure there are no serious problems with the motor as well as check my oil pump to make sure it is within tolerance.

How hard is the crank seal to replace? Any other recommendations? I would like to do this once and only once... Haha thank you

I was planning on pulling the rad to give myself some room, I understand pulling the engine would be easier I just don't know if I feel like going through the hassle with all the vacuum lines and other electronics.

Hey guys, I have been doing a lot of reading on the timing of these cars as I need to complete this job. I was simply curious all of the posts about the timing chains being replaced, the engine is always out of the car. Is it possible to replace the timing components while the engine is still in the car? I know is sounds like a dumb question and I am feel sort of stupid asking it but I was simply curious. It appears to me that I would have the room but I am not quite sure. Finally going to revitalize the old lady after having to sit the winter in the garage. New injectors, injector clips, timing components, and turbo rebuild. Excited to get her back on the road! Thanks for the help

Sorry, now I feel really stupid, having a rough day haha. Thanks for your help guys, hopefully when I get home I can take a look at the poor ol' girl. I will keep you all posted after this weekend when we see what happens...

Unfortunately, the old lady is at home right now and I am at school. I come home every weekend too see it, but only get a couple hours with it unfortunately. This weekend I will check my oil, and possibly pull the valve cover and timing chain cover to check for the condition of the chain. What do I look for? A large amount of slack in the chain?

I did not know the chain is in the front... Sorry that sounded bad haha. My old lady is a 1989 Conquest, The miles on the odometer only read 47k, however judging by the condition of the car, I know that is incorrect. I was told that the motor was "rebuilt" less then 10k miles ago. I do not know what the rebuild consisted of, and it was done by not the owner I bought it off of, but the one before him. I tried to get information on the rebuild but couldn't get anything out of him as he did not know. I will have to pull the valve cover I guess... I am just trying to help the poor girl back to life, and everytime I fix one thing, I find something else wrong

Okay guys, I finally got the water pump belt off. The noise was still there. I took the A/C belt off. Noise was still there. Do the distributors on these ever make strange noises? It sounds like its coming from the front end of the motor, not the back as if it was a timing chain. Every time I apply the throttle, I hear the noise, sometimes it keeps making the sound after letting of the throttle, sometimes it just goes away. I am really blown away at this point. I find it hard to believe it could by my timing chain, however you guys know better than I do, any simple way to check it?

I will get it up on the lift this weekend and swap out the oil pressure sender with a new one. I will see if that helps at all. The sound is definitely coming from the front of the engine. As of now I am thinking it is the water pump. I may simply pull the water pump belt and start the car real quick to see. Thanks for the help guys, I will give you an update after I get done this weekend and let you know what happens.

The oil pressure does rise however barely gets a quarter of the way up the gauge. Not good.

Hey guys, had the car parked for a little while, I finally got it back together and started it up for the first time in about a month and I started hearing a strange knock. I had taken apart the fuel injection system, the injectors and the injector seat just above the throttle body. The car will idle all day, I am afraid to drive it though due to the noise. The comes and goes, so its hard to pin point, however it sounds like either the water pump or idler pulley. I have noticed the oil pressure is very low. This scares me, could it be something with the oil pump? Thoughts?

Thanks for all the help guys. Gonna make the turbo rebuild into a short little winter project. Unfortunately, I don't have the money to get the Conquest going. She needs injectors and the turbo rebuild, a hours on the weekend should get me the money for winter to get her all ready for spring!

I really appreciate that post some good information thank you. I am not looking to make this car into a race car at all right now. I am trying to save it from the last owners beating actually. I am taking it slow and asking the experts (you guys) anytime I have a problem. I want to rebuild the turbo simply to get the thing running without the oil getting pushed through. I am in love with these cars, I know they can be quick but I just love showing it off in its prime 80's glory. I am a poor college student just trying to revive this beautiful creature.

Thanks for the help guys I think I will rebuild it myself. I just need a rotating assembly correct? Suggestions on a brand?

I was curious though, would it be necessary to run a bigger compressor wheel? I am not looking to make the car into any kind of race car or anything, at least not yet. I am simply looking to run the stock 7.5 psi and keep the car from blowing up. Should I replace the compressor and turbine wheel with a new one simply for good measure? It appears they are both in pretty good shape already though. Thanks for all of the input. Also, is there anyway to polish up the turbo?