FieroGTFan

Thanks a lot guys feeling much better about this now. I was told the engine was "rebuilt" less than 10k miles ago. Whatever that "rebuild" consisted of I don't know for sure, I tried to get the information out of the previous owner but he didn't seem to know either and there I was thinking I was getting a deal with a "rebuilt" motor. I was planning on dropping the pan to make sure there was no serious amount of metal shavings in there.

Okay good to know. I was planning on dropping the pan anyway, should I just leave it off to take the timing cover off? Would that always help with clearance? Also, would you suggest replacing the stock oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge to get a more accurate reading? I am in no way planning on making a racecar, just a simple car to drive on the weekends. Thanks

I had read in another post about the timing that the head did not have to be removed, so you are saying this isn't true? Pulling the head isn't a huge deal, but I had read that I didn't have to pull it and I would like to leave it that way if possible... I need to redo the timing because I have a tensioner problem of some sort, I can the hear the slack of the chain making an odd noise behind the cover. Also, oil pressure is very low, so I need to drop the pan and make sure there are no serious problems with the motor as well as check my oil pump to make sure it is within tolerance.

How hard is the crank seal to replace? Any other recommendations? I would like to do this once and only once... Haha thank you

I was planning on pulling the rad to give myself some room, I understand pulling the engine would be easier I just don't know if I feel like going through the hassle with all the vacuum lines and other electronics.

Hey guys, I have been doing a lot of reading on the timing of these cars as I need to complete this job. I was simply curious all of the posts about the timing chains being replaced, the engine is always out of the car. Is it possible to replace the timing components while the engine is still in the car? I know is sounds like a dumb question and I am feel sort of stupid asking it but I was simply curious. It appears to me that I would have the room but I am not quite sure. Finally going to revitalize the old lady after having to sit the winter in the garage. New injectors, injector clips, timing components, and turbo rebuild. Excited to get her back on the road! Thanks for the help

Sorry, now I feel really stupid, having a rough day haha. Thanks for your help guys, hopefully when I get home I can take a look at the poor ol' girl. I will keep you all posted after this weekend when we see what happens...

Unfortunately, the old lady is at home right now and I am at school. I come home every weekend too see it, but only get a couple hours with it unfortunately. This weekend I will check my oil, and possibly pull the valve cover and timing chain cover to check for the condition of the chain. What do I look for? A large amount of slack in the chain?

I did not know the chain is in the front... Sorry that sounded bad haha. My old lady is a 1989 Conquest, The miles on the odometer only read 47k, however judging by the condition of the car, I know that is incorrect. I was told that the motor was "rebuilt" less then 10k miles ago. I do not know what the rebuild consisted of, and it was done by not the owner I bought it off of, but the one before him. I tried to get information on the rebuild but couldn't get anything out of him as he did not know. I will have to pull the valve cover I guess... I am just trying to help the poor girl back to life, and everytime I fix one thing, I find something else wrong

Okay guys, I finally got the water pump belt off. The noise was still there. I took the A/C belt off. Noise was still there. Do the distributors on these ever make strange noises? It sounds like its coming from the front end of the motor, not the back as if it was a timing chain. Every time I apply the throttle, I hear the noise, sometimes it keeps making the sound after letting of the throttle, sometimes it just goes away. I am really blown away at this point. I find it hard to believe it could by my timing chain, however you guys know better than I do, any simple way to check it?

I will get it up on the lift this weekend and swap out the oil pressure sender with a new one. I will see if that helps at all. The sound is definitely coming from the front of the engine. As of now I am thinking it is the water pump. I may simply pull the water pump belt and start the car real quick to see. Thanks for the help guys, I will give you an update after I get done this weekend and let you know what happens.

The oil pressure does rise however barely gets a quarter of the way up the gauge. Not good.

Hey guys, had the car parked for a little while, I finally got it back together and started it up for the first time in about a month and I started hearing a strange knock. I had taken apart the fuel injection system, the injectors and the injector seat just above the throttle body. The car will idle all day, I am afraid to drive it though due to the noise. The comes and goes, so its hard to pin point, however it sounds like either the water pump or idler pulley. I have noticed the oil pressure is very low. This scares me, could it be something with the oil pump? Thoughts?

Thanks for all the help guys. Gonna make the turbo rebuild into a short little winter project. Unfortunately, I don't have the money to get the Conquest going. She needs injectors and the turbo rebuild, a hours on the weekend should get me the money for winter to get her all ready for spring!

I really appreciate that post some good information thank you. I am not looking to make this car into a race car at all right now. I am trying to save it from the last owners beating actually. I am taking it slow and asking the experts (you guys) anytime I have a problem. I want to rebuild the turbo simply to get the thing running without the oil getting pushed through. I am in love with these cars, I know they can be quick but I just love showing it off in its prime 80's glory. I am a poor college student just trying to revive this beautiful creature.

Thanks for the help guys I think I will rebuild it myself. I just need a rotating assembly correct? Suggestions on a brand?

I was curious though, would it be necessary to run a bigger compressor wheel? I am not looking to make the car into any kind of race car or anything, at least not yet. I am simply looking to run the stock 7.5 psi and keep the car from blowing up. Should I replace the compressor and turbine wheel with a new one simply for good measure? It appears they are both in pretty good shape already though. Thanks for all of the input. Also, is there anyway to polish up the turbo?

I thought that you had to measure out the wheels and such when rebuilding a turbo? I thought everything had to be in balance.

I currently have the factory TD-05 12A turbo still installed on my 89' Conquest. However it is pushing oil past the seals. I was curious of your opinions, I was planning on keeping the car stock and simply restoring it to original. I would like to keep the factory turbo on the car, however I am concerned about the durability of the 12A. If I was to get it rebuilt, where do you guys reccomend sending it to get this done? Is it worth a rebuild, or simply more worth while to buy a new 16G turbo? As I said before I am trying to keep the car stock but not lose money over rebuild after rebuild. Thanks

Thank guys, as soon as the money comes in I will be purchasing a set off of the Group Purchase section. I appreciate your help.

I got two keys cut right at the local hardware store I work at. I spent $5 to get both keys and have them cut. It was a TrueValue if that helps. Just make sure you tell them it is a Mitsu key, it won't be with the other Chrysler blanks.

I need a secondary fuel injector for my 1989 Conquest TSi, I was hoping to just put both injectors in and get it over with, however I found the injectors on MitsubishiParts.com, however I am not looking to spend $400+ per injector. Is there an aftermarket part I can put in to push about the same amount of fuel to the throttle plate, but not buy the OEM Mitsubishi injectors. I at least need to know the stock injector size for both the primary and secondary injectors. I seem to keep finding different rate of flow ranging from 540-600 for the primary and 920-1050 for the secondary, so I need to know for sure. Thanks guys

So, if I wire up the stock harness and plug it into the radio, there shouldn't be a problem with the radio working? I would just hate to plug the radio up and have it not work. I have already tested the radio with a small battery and hooked up speakers to it.

I recently picked up an 89 Conquest TSi. I was able to find a stock 88 Conquest TSi radio on ebay going for cheap. I purchased the radio, then as I did some research into the topic, I realized that the radio I had purchased was the "premium" radio, or so I think (radio has the 9 band eq). Will the premium radio work with the system in the car now? Their is an aftermarket head butchered into the stock radio spot now. I am not worried about getting it to fit, I am more worried if I will be able to use the radio at all. I will have to wire up a stock harness. Are the premium systems amped in anyway? If so, where do the put the factory amps to tell if the car is amped or not? Is there anyway to tell if the car had the premium system in it from the factory or not? I just want to know if I should keep the radio or sell it off if I can't use it. Thanks, FieroGTFan