TSIboostman

How is the passengers side seat, everything work on it? if you take It apart it should not be much to ship.

^^^ you can get them still remanf. I ordered one for 28 bucks LOL Oreillys.

are the mookeehs rear struts the oem ones and not the mr conversion kind with the top nut? I think the GS23s? if they are would you do a 100 shipped? thx

Water can absorb and dissipate more heat more effectively than can antifreeze. Antifreeze lowers the freezing point and raises the boiling point Lots of turbo guys run straight distilled water and water wetter in their radiators.

well gee, thanks. You know as well I as I do that turbo cars like more water in their mix than antifreeze. I figured it was the case with my turbo 240sx and it is the case with the Starquests. Only problem is when it goes below what your mix can handle then it slush and freeze causing problems.

Well I did and it kind of was scary. I guess I had too much water in my radiator and it had a slushy center of mass on my radiator that reduced flow then it hit right below the H mark before I shut it off. It then set there and never really steamed up at all, melted the center of the radiator where the slush was and then it never went over half on the temp gauge. In normal situations it always runs at the quarter level on the temp gauge but was running a little hot. I added some Preston 50/50 and it seemed to idle and do fine. Of course it has been 20 degrees here for a few days and even at 8 or so at night. I just have never seen this before on any car and did not know what to do. I do not think it cracked the block or head and/ or the radiator seemed to hold the fluid when I added it back to it. I have never seen this before and am wondering if anyone has any experience with it? The heater worked though and I think the coolant that was liquid boiled off due to flow and when the fan kicked on it was blowing ice cold air. Just never experienced anything like it.

I have no idea what this at this point, sometimes I think it is EGR related but then it only really does it at first start up and the voltage stays low which also leads me to believe that is could be a weak voltage regulator which makes it want to stall out until it picks up like after 10 seconds or so and then it is fine. this is really driving me crazy.

I have tested the tps it is set correctly, this problem did not start until I cleaned the EGR valve and now it does an idle dip on cold starts which could be an egr problem at least what I have read. The thermo valve opens the EGR valve on warm and idle up conditions but if it is stuck open then it will run rough and try to stall out on cold starts which is what it is doing. Which is why I said I thought it was the EGR valve. The intake port that hooks up to the drivers fender side EGR port has vacuum that increases with engine rpm however I think the valve is stuck open as it should not let exhaust gas into the chamber on cold start idle.

I am like 90 percent sure that my low idle on start up is being cause by a stuck open EGR valve. I am not sure if the thermo ported vac switch is bad as well. I think I know how this ported vac switch should work but I need some verification and/ or correction from the knowledgeable peps on this forum. On this ported switch is ports one of which has constant vac and the other only opens when the coolant heats up. These lines run to the EGR valve to signal it to open when under load and rpm. If the EGR valve is stuck open then it basically acts as a large vac leak causing idle to stumble and to idle low especially when cold. Before I replace both of these and spend 150 bucks is there anyway to test the ported vac switch? and or the egr valve itself. I realize it is mechanical.

yes I have the injectors look OEM and 26 years old so maybe I do need to get them flowed and tested.

I have cleaned it once before but maybe I do not have it close enough to the throttle plate when it pushes against it because it does idle to 1200 on cold starts but it takes it like 5 -10 seconds to get there. It could also be the EGR like you have said. I have cleaned it a couple of times and it gets carbon up quite a bit.

I have learned a lot from this site and am just wondering some things particular about my car. I have fixed a lot of the issues, bad idle caused from old arse vac hoses and some of which were not connected correctly and/ or trashed. It idles solid now but when I first start the car up, and this is only for like the first 5-10 seconds of start up the idle is low, the amp meter reads right at the half mark, and then it will raise the idle up to 1200 rpm and then smooth out and idle good. It revs good and I realize the rev is not going to be as fast as a MPI 4 cylinder but it seems a little sluggish on the rev needle until it warms up a little bit. I still have exhaust things to work out and will be getting a flex pipe on my downpipe and a custom made cat back setup so could this sluggishness could be caused by a leaking exhaust manifold?

I am a firm believer that older Japan 4 cylinders run better on dino motor oil and in these cars that would be 10w 30 and what I run a 10w 40 which IMO provides a little better protection on run through but not so much on start up. The 30 weight does not coagulate as much as the 40 will when cold so your cold starts could be harsher but when warm the G54 truck motor loves the 40 weight stuff. Synthetic is great in modern cars where 0 or 5 is used for increased gas mileage but for a Starquest with a G54b turbo motor in it then I would run regular motor oil.

this first pic is normal the second one it looks low, but you can get a mechanical one and know for sure.

the truth is that 90 to 95 percent of all the ones trying to get 9-12 grand for these cars and listed as pristine and in like new condition are not. The cars are 25+ years old at this point and even if they have sat for 22 of those 24 years there will be things that do not work or need to be fixed. I always look at the pictures of these cars, the front and rear emblems on them are hard to replace and you can always tell once they have been replaced or removed either from paint work or accident damage. It is one of the things I always look for when examining these cars or any car by photos with not being able to see it in person. The guy with the red one is playing games a little, either he will not sell it or it will pop up again. If he truly wanted to sell it then it would have been sold. I will bet you that it ends up back on eBay at some point again. A lot of the posters here that have put a lot into these cars do not want to see them go to any body that would not love them as much as they do. You can not blame then for that.

I spoke with this guy and offered 9 grand cash for the car and he turned it down. I am glad he did cause I would have kicked myself in the arse everyday for spending that much on a red Conquest. My least favorite color, although this car is nice. The air conditioning does not work right and it is not PRISTINE. There have been others that are cleaner and in more desirable colors sell for less money.

I think that is the majority of these crowfeet parts. Most Craftsman is made in America but sometimes there are other off branding they will use that will be China parts. I do not like Chinese tools either but sometimes these smaller tools are all going to be made there.

I bought a Bergen set off ebay from the UK and they look pretty good. Lock onto the fitting tight and looks like it would do the job. I have not tried to move it and have Wurth and Craftsman tool sets to work on my cars. For something like a flare nut crow foot set, 14mm flare nut crows foot will do the job. I have been spraying the flare nuts with Liquid Wrench to make them easier to remove.

I have to do this as well, and have the line it is like 20 bucks from Oreillys. Kind of cool, I will do it when I get my exhaust reworked and then will replace the exhaust gasket. It needs to be replaced since I have valve ticking from an exhaust leaking manifold caused by a POS exhaust system hacked up from the cat back plus my down pipe does not have a flex piece on it. I figure with the exhaust manifold and hot side apart then it should not be that hard of a replacement.

Mine does this exact same crap but runs good when warm and has a perfect idle when warm as well. It starts then has a low rough idle and then it comes up and runs rough. Spitting and sputtering and then when it warms up it is fine. I think I will try to block off the EGR and see if it still does it. I am thinking the EGR if stuck open will allow exhaust gases back into the chamber and not combust as well acting like a large vacuum leak of course it could be my big ole exhaust manifold leak which I am sure may have an affect as well.

It has been working was working on the other sender unit, but it reads funny. Like it grounds out then will not read accurately.

My fuel gauge is doing strange things. I ordered a new one from Japan and it had the seal, but it will not read correctly. I used a paperclip and tested the wires and the gauge works, it goes full and empty with the right wires tripped, but only read a quarter of a tank when connected to the sending unit. Is there another ground some where that will work correctly? It reads ok for a while then runs to a quarter of a tank and will not read correctly. My hatch needs adjustment, if that has anything to do with it....

no link

it must be picking up from another line, my egr valve was leaking and I fixed that. My idle is now pretty much as good as a starquest can be. the idle is good though and rock solid. I stll need to fix my exhaust leak and it still ides around 500 or so on some warm starts and then it picks up. Wonder if that is my exhaust manifold leak.

as some of you all know I have been chasing an idle and slight misfire on idle with my Starion. Well today I had some extra vac hose and started looking at things. Honestly without the vac hoses hooked up to the right things now there is no way I could have replaced the whole thing and get it right. This car has more vac hoses on it than I have ever seen. I replaced the three main ones of the throttle body, and the EGR ones. The misfire at idle is now gone but the 4th nipple off the throttle body right below the three main throttle body nipples was open to the air so I think this was my main vac leak. I just capped it for now and would like to know where this hose should go to? I also capped the Mitsubishi blow valve that is on the cold side intake. I had a large vac hose plug and zip tie. I have no more stumble at idle but would really like to know were the 4th nipple below the 3 main nipples goes? I can not believe it was just left open like that and that is why it sucked lots of air and had a misfire.