TSIboostman

Indiana come on here any longer? I know there are some peps with a bunch laying around. Please let me know, my secondary is dripping for sure... I will take a set if you do not want to sell just one secondary.

Those of you all with the 2600 Mitsu G54b engine which is the OEM engine in these cars would like to know, just me giving back to the community. I was having some sludge, dirty oil and hella valve train noise. I am using 10 40 Valvoline, and wix filters. I always use wix over Fram cause they have more surface area. Increased service area equals increased oil cleaning/ filtering. Now, if you have rod knock this will not help, but if you have sludge, valve train noise and rough engine running then this will work. What I did is ran 2 thousand miles on my Valvoline 10-40 then I added a 1/4 bottle of Marvel Mystery oil to the crank case. I ran it a few hundred miles then changed the oil (WalMart has Val.10-40 on sale for 16.98 with a dollar off and a free Dale Jr. 88 cap). Pretty awesome. It reduced start up friction, reduced valve train noise, increased performance and reduced sludge. While MM would do zero for a modern engine, it really helps out older engines especially those that have sat for years like most of our cars. I plan on doing a couple more treatments but be aware this stuff will decrease oil pressure slightly but it is awesome stuff on older engines without modern clearances/ tolerances. I now swear by it and am a believer.

as long as this tested and working with no intermittent problems I will take it, could use another back up. thanks pm paypal and I will send payment thanks James

Need a good secondary injector bought a set but the secondary leaks very badly. The one in my car currently drips and 5-10 seconds after turning off the car. I am looking for a good clean used one that I can have clean and tested. thanks

Mine is up front as well, same spot as yours just have to get off my lazy arse and do it. Lol

That is another thing, the springs on the down pipe are they any good or should I get a flex pipe welded in. I have some really good exhaust paste and thread lock so if any thing is loose or missing it will be replaced. the head is a newer Clearwater non jet valve head so I am thinking the threads should be fine especially on a new casting.

yeah that is what I was afraid of, I have some craftsman gloves but I bet changing the spark plugs is a dangerous proposition.

I have the OEM metal gasket from dad as well as all the turbo gaskets washers and copper locking nuts. Do you run the cut webs? or does it really matter? I think the old exhaust was A POS and its weight caused the separation on the first cylinder which I thought it was always 4 that leaked usually.

Hello, as most peps on here knows I have been isolating a low idle start on my Starion that only usually happens on cold weather or when the car has sat for a while. I have isolated the problem to an exhaust manifold leak on cylinder number one. Taken a little Vac line from my vac pump I can hear it hissing and ticking away on cylinder number one at the joint were my fel pro gasket meets the manifold. My down pipe springs are still in place and I have the parts to fix it, ordered from DAD a while back. The question is and I have read these forums a lot should I use another Fel Pro or OEM Mitsubishi exhaust manifold gasket. I like the spark plug shield on the Fel Pro but like the overall Mitsu gasket better. Wish they made one completely metal with the shielding in place. 1. What exhaust manifold gasket should I go with? 2. Should I cut the webbing on my exhaust manifold like some suggest? 3. do the downpipe springs freeze up? should I wield in a flex pipe before I do the repair? I will get around to doing this in a few weeks. thanks

I want the seats and the floor carpet, if you decide to part it. Looks great....

x2 on the Centrics, they are Brembo castings and are the BOMB plus a great price at 30 bucks each....

why do these cars run like crap when cold or in cold weather starts and then run awesome on hotter days and in warmer weather? my car sounds like an 80s natural gas forklift that would be found in a big warehouse in 1992.

nm I was able to soldier repair that the connector so it is good as new.

one of the push on type connectors the flat ones used for the temperature sensors on the intake manifold for the g54b? I had one that broke off at the terminal end for the sensor for the a/c compressor cut off switch. It is the flat metal terminal that fits into a black AMP labeled connector. I was able to take the connector apart but the push on metal connector is flat and long, much longer than the ones that come in normal kits? If any one knows if these connectors are still made it would help me out a lot. thanks

my vac advance was the issue with my 3000 rpm hiccup, just an fyi x2

I have no real idea of what it could be, it is running rich at idle. I need to have the injectors checked and cleaned but this car is so weird. Everything works off a ground and its surrounding metal. I cleaned the lower intake well with carb cleaner and the intake ground is an important ground. My electronics seem to be working a lot better and cleaner. I know the popping and rich ness at idle could be vac hose tears and the cruise ones are in rough shape and need to be replaced. SO many things that it can be and these cars as everyone knows on this board are not easy to diagnosis.

I quickly tested the voltage on the mps ecu harness and it measure 5 volts on the wires that should have voltage but the .9 voltage wire did not and would not hold constant. My car has an 88 ecu in it so I am wondering if there is a difference in the Ecus ? That could cause these problems? Thanks

I rebuilt the ISC/ MPS and when hooked up to a 9volt battery the switch moves back and forth like it is suppose too. This leaves me to believe that it is on the harness wiring side. Anyone have any good methods at tracing this side of the harness and what to look for in order to fix it? thanks

NM the ground is there, I will rebuild the ISC wires again and trace them.

guess I need a new one then, I have taken mine apart twice and reassembled it. It will not move on cold idle starts and does not move the throttle at all. Any one have a good one laying around?

because mine does not work.

It does act a little different, I also advanced the timing a little to where it quickly hits max boost in 1st gear and then pulls back. I can feel it pull the timing back in so I guess the knock sensor works. It runs like a champ hits max boost in almost every gear quick, which I think is a good thing. I believe my stumbling idle issue to be related to exhaust leaks since I have pretty much eliminated everything else.

I think I have most of the vac lines hooked up correctly according to the diagram and the car runs good but I have noticed with a 50/50 solution my car runs around middle to slightly above middle with the fan kicking on at stop signs and/ or in stop and go traffic. When I drive the car it runs at the quarter mark, what could cause this? Should I run more water and/ or water wetter to the antifreeze. thanks

yeah that is what that is, iirc it controls resume and acceleration functions

yeah thanks for that my vacuum lines are definitely hooked up wrong. I will work them out but first my new exhaust then the vac hoses. I also advanced timing a little and it boosts a little more than it has been I did not advance it much. On stock boost levels that does not hurt anything does it? I kind of got a base and did it off feel. It runs better than It has just wondering if others here run a little more timing and if it could mess anything up? thanks for the help