Gamble88

Please don't compare me to other people that you think you know. When/Where did I say I was going to take a deposit and use other peoples money? This is a gauging interest thread and if there is interest as it said in post #1 I will order; If nobody wants it, then i'll just make one for myself then. Geez.

I'm not saying that it can't be done, but how much harder is your fuel pump working to get it there? You should go do a 3rd gear pull and log IDC and fuel pump voltage if you can, swap out that top fitting and do it again and see what happens. A challenge.................you should accept

And I'm open to it, however I don't need people like Scotty posting s*** in my thread telling everyone to spend money on an adapter when clearly I have tried it and it does NOT fit. Lots of people don't want to spend the time under their car replacing broken and would like to just simply add parts to make things easier for them. One I finish sanding it down it won't be an eyesore. These cars are so old and abused I'm sure there is more than just 1 eyesore on everyone's. Well at least most peoples. I also didn't ask for criticism. I just asked if someone wanted to be a test mule. If I wanted opinions I would have posted this somewhere other than the parts for sale section. That is why i ordered a few fuel rails to practice on. Meanwhile if someone wants one I am just giving it away HENCE the thread. Got a link to who burned their car down, I'd be curious to see. Also from what I have read it seems to be almost common on these cars modded or not.

Honestly for $90 I feel it should have been a drop in and go type of modification. I haven't started the car up yet. I made an intake pipe for it the other night and put it on last night. Still need to weld up hangers for the exhaust then drop it down on all four tires and then start it up. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/a4cc47aa.jpg

There is a company that makes those, I looked into it a few years ago, but they are NOT cheap. Agreed, Thank you.

No idea off the top of my head, but if you compare them to any slim fan they are much more efficient.

Sure, but stock lines rot away. Also for those that don't know the banjo bolt ontop of the fuel filter is a HUGE restriction. By eliminating that alone and replacing it with a 6an line you can free upwards of almost 20% IDC.

I've been welding for quiet some time now, thank you very much. Never had much experience doing cast aluminum though. I would like someone to TEST it hence this thread. Someone that can bench test it, or dyno test it so you can keep an eye on it. It's not about making money, it's about helping the community. And if I knew that you and a few others would be so negative about it I won't waste my time. Maybe you shouldn't post until you can learn how to use spell check and proper punctuation? Edit: Wait do you even know how to weld? Or anything about welding? Just because it doesn't look like a stack of dimes doesn't mean it's not welded correctly. There are many different techniques of welding which give different results. Different techniques for different materials, or different techniques for whichever way the welder feels most comfortable. Just because the community is so caught up on welds looking like ))))))))))))))))))))))))) doesn't mean that it's right or wrong. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

Not a lot but a decent amount.

Is there a reason you need to piss on my thread with your bullstinky? Go ahead and buy those fittings. I have fitting in my garage for the 1g and 2g fuel rail and they DON'T fit.

I think it will look a lot better once it's sanded flush and powder coated. If you want this one I'll just keep yours. Let me know either way.

Stick to a stock fan. Ebay slim fans can't compare how much CFM they push to a stock fan.

I'm sure it's not defective because look at the instructions. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/4fa35e55.jpg Step 4 below http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/06ecd5ed.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/69e57964.jpg And I'm sorry but in the factory they don't just randomly throw on different MAF sensors. Come on really. And also on the front page it says : returns are accepted only if all parts are in re-saleable condition, and no returns will be accepted after 30 days, and furthermore is subject to a 25% restocking fee. So once you make a chance like a hole then I'm stuck with it. Bottom line is I will never order from Cosmo again and I will never refer any business to them.

AN fittings are nice, but good luck putting them on the stock radiator And 16AN fittings are EXPENSIVE. Says who? I had a upper/lower water pipe like these on my dsm that made 452awhp on a mustang dyno and 366tq. Never ever had a problem. When the engine moves it puts stress on motor mounts. It's not like radiator hoses have to support the engine.

Was just playing around with what I had in the garage. All I have left is straight pipes so I can do pie cuts or order the correct bends. This is just an idea of what it will look like and by no means is the final product. Just a pic to give you an idea. This will be aluminum 1.5" upper radiator pipe. Couplers you will be on your own for or I can order them but you will be paying what I pay for them which is the same as you pay. I don't have any dealer license or get any hook up on parts. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/0a522ffc.jpg Still haven't decided what type of bends I want to do on this yet. Still up in the air. Who would be interested? Pricing would be around $50(ish) can't say for sure until I order materials. Also I have a contact who does powder coating so if this is something of interest I'm sure he could do a discount (my guess is 20-30 each)

Request by leesfer to cut off the ears. Here you go sir. Cut them off and grinded it down, welded up a few ugly spots and grinded again http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/21877e3d.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/fd08d97d.jpg It could use some more grinding but nothing I'm going to do until I get a something to cover the threads so I don't damage them. What do you guys think now? I do also have a friend who powdercoats (he is not local to me though)

Is it necessary to weld the piece onto the cam for the CAS? Or is there another way?

I thought about grinding it, but I've always been told you don't grind aluminum welds. Not sure if this applies to cast aluminum or not. Next one I do I'm going to clean it better and pre heat it more to get rid of more impurities on the metal. The inverter machines don't ball up the tungsten at all. It's kind of nice actually. Maybe I'll try heating it up and then taking it to my grinding disc as well.

It's just the nature of cast aluminum, it's always dirty no matter how much you clean it. Where can you get an ORB fitting for that cheap? I have yet to see them less than $10ish. Sometimes the search on the summit site sucks and their shipping is $7.50. If you buy a tap strictly for this use then you should add it into the cost. That's how I figure it at least. I have an inverter machine and pure tungsten (green) is not recommended. I have also tried it and hated it. Red works the best from what I have used thus far. I do want to try some blue sooner or later though.

That would be the way to do it if you wanted to go that route. Why? Um because I have a welder. Why so quick to hate on new ideas. If you want to spend $20ish on a fitting then $8 on shipping then another $5-$10 on a tap then be my guest. Plus it will come loose every time you loosen the fuel line.

Because its a fuel line, you can't just tap and put a fitting in IMO. You would still need an O-ring if you did it that way, and could still leak fumes.

Still need a few more rails.

Sent you a text.

I have 4 more fittings to use. I can do yours as long as the fitting isn't anodized. If it is just send me your rail and pay me for shipping and the fitting. So like $15. Pm me and I will get you my info when I am off my phone. Please do not clean the item yourself. I don't need to risk my life from someone using brake cleaner.

I know there are a few people here that have done MPI and dsmlink. My question is what are you guys doing about the CAS sensor that dsm's use? Do you not need one when doing the swap?