StarBoy

I live in the Dallas/Fort Worth area of Texas. I might just have a mini meet and see if I can get a deal with them to do it for that price on a weekend. I am having a little trouble right now trying to get the valve cover to seal but I think I got the problem fixed, if so I'll take it for a "spirited" drive tonight and tell yall how it goes.

I will dyno the car after its running right, I'm having some ignition issues right now, but yes, it will be dynoed, I know a place around here that does 3 pulls for $30 on wednesdays with a wideband hooked up.

I recieved my kit today at about 10:30am and imediately jumped into installing it since I wanted to have it done by mid afternoon so I could take it to the track tonight. As of right now I have to say this is the most complete kit I have ever seen in my entire life, that includes the Haltec, Autronic and SDS kits I have installed in the past. Everything is included, wire loom, zip ties and just about everything else needed for the kit. The only complaint I have about the kit is how the air temp sensor seals against the OVCP, but I have seen worse, mostly its just me nit picking the kit. I am just about done with the install, all that's left is to tie into the factory harness (3 wires or so) and do the ignition setup.

You should be able to fit a 245 on the front, I personally havn't tried it, but the sidewall will have a lot of curvature to it. I'd say go to discount tire and have them try to install a set and see if it rubs.

From what I hear the mustang 5.0 throttle bodys are pretty close to matching up, just grind a lil on a hole to get it to fit.... but once again, that's just what I heard, don't know if its true

i'm not a big fan of cutting large holes in the body of a car just for exhaust, what happens if you change your mind? Personally, I'd go dumps on your car, I tend to go for a little bit of the sleeper look, no huge chrome mufflers or anything like that.

for removing the sound deadening material i'd reccomend a heat gun and a putty knife, I used it on mine and it came off relatively easy.

Does anyone know the paint code for balt blue? I need to repaint my car within the next few weeks and I'd like it to be this color

Its made out of aluminum, and in order to keep it from warping you bolt it to a POS stock head that you don't care about, it will still warp a little, but not nearly as much, then you just surface it or take it to a machine shop and have them do it for like $15. Either way, my friend did this on his starion motor that is in his lil 1971 datsun 1200 (like a 510 but MUCH smaller)

if you look at the top of the plug you'll see 7 pins, one is kinda by itself without a pin above it (or below), you need to shave off that side of the plug about 1/4 of an inch and get rid of that 7th pin, it is not used on our cars. then CAREFULLY slide connector onto the plug, you will have to shave off any guides for the connector that are on the plug. Then just hook it up to the stock intake pipe just like the factory unit, however you will need either a drop in K&N unit for a 1g and just use the air can clips to hold it on, or get the 1g air can. it WILL NOT work with the factory one, it is a longer MAS.

Didn't come from the factory with the SHP setup, but when I bought this car it already had tokico struts, I guess that's what I could feel as being stiff

Is moot even a word?

I was riding with a buddy today and he made a comment on how my car has a really stiff suspension for being factory. So I got to thinking, the SHP springs are stiffer than the non shp ones, and they will bolt up to the struts also, could I possibly have them. He has a conquest also and its not anywhere as close to stiff as mine

I took my car to a body shop to get an estimate on respray for my car since all the hard part is done already (local codes won't let me paint it myself). And as the guy was looking over my car he made it really apparent that my doors close really really really well, and line up perfect, infact he had to use dial calipers to see a measureable difference in the gaps. I know for a fact that this car has never been into a body shop before so the door must have come that way from mitsu. Does anyone have the same kind of thing, or am I just lucky and mitsu's door hanging was a hit or miss type thing.

Good luck with that, looks like it'll be killer. I just got done doing all the body work on my car, it'll be damn near perfect, way better than when it came from the factory. I spent a good day (6:30am-8:30pm) putting a new quarter pannel on my car, I want minimal bondo on it and the previous owners drunk neighbor hit it (yay........*sarcasm). I'll post some pics up here eventually, but it looks like it'll be a wicked nice car.

That's cool for performance and all.... but what happens when it comes time for a valve job when those quit sealing well......... There are so many reason on why I think a standard style valvetrain is better. Like the valve job thing, and where would you find parts for it? How stupid expensive will it be? Would there be different sized whatever you want to call those cylinder things for different applications, like say I wanted 600hp, I would need larger spheres than someone that really only wanted 350.

Trying to get my camera to upload the pics then i'll find a host and post em, basically I just smeared the stuff all over the bottom inch of the air dam on the inside so you can't see it. I'm not sure i'll be too happy with this, its been a day left just sitting there to dry and its all rubbery....

Yes, you can run 9's on the front if you roll the lip, I know for sure that Backslider is doing it with 17x9 mustang rims all the way around.

Well, i finally got a pretty good air dam off a friend of mine, I don't want to break this one. I am trying something that I have not heard about in a while. I went and bought a whole tube of 3M seam sealer, its a grey semi flexible mixture of stuff that comes in a calking gun tube. As of 2 hours ago I applied it and am waiting to see what happens after I install it. Made sure to clean the surface really well and hit it with 600 grit sand paper to give it an edge to stick to. If it won't stop it from cracking it will atleast hold it all together.

is there any way you could provide me with some info on what torque converter you are using? I don't know which ring gear would work considering it needs a 10" or smaller converter, and the ring gear is already on the converter.

If the hinges hold up and are decently priced I'll be in on em, parking is a complain at school

my 904 came out of a fullsize mid 80's dodge truck however its built with the low first gear out of the dump trucks and raybestos clutches with kolene steels and a custom built valve body which is right on the edge of streetability. That bellhousing I know is different, but what did the other one come out of? I don't want to run adapter plates, something about them I just don't like. If I could find an auto that would hold up to 450 rwhp with the 4g63 i'd love to do it. I just hate doing clutch swaps every 6 weeks.

what did this trans come out of? and is the 4g64 the same bellhousing pattern as the 4g63? I sure hope it is, I have a built 904 sitting in my garage that I could take the internals out of and put in a narrow bellhousing 904 and have a nice trans for my swap . ;D

I pulled mine all apart when I bought it, put in my schneider springs and cam, that'll have to suffice untill I can get some cash together for a majorly ported head. When I go to build a new head I'll try to track down just a casting, not a complete head and do some upgrade stainless valves and whatnot

already did