billbosh

I found one from a SQer's part-out but if it doesn't work out, I'd be down for a 3D printed one. Thanks! -Bill B.

http://www.starquest...fuel_system.pdf http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g206/billbosh/WP_20140829_0021.jpg http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g206/billbosh/WP_20140829_0011.jpg Hi- I am need of the part that connects the throttle body to the throttle position sensor for my 89 SQ. It's a small, yellow ring-like object and is called a "joint" and it's item 2 on page 14-73 of the '88 FSM (link above). Here is a photo of the part, along with a photo of the part of the TPS it engages. Please let me know whether you have one. Thanks! -Bill B.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g206/billbosh/WP_20140829_0021.jpg Hi- I don't need the TPS, but I do need little yellow fastener that connects the TB to the TPS. It's item 2 on page 14-73 of the FSM. Here is a photo. Thanks in advance. Bill B

Hi- today (Sunday 3/23) an '88 Starion was crashed into by a fleeing car theft suspect and split in half. The driver of the Starion walked away with just a bloody lip, but the two suspects are in critical condition. Hope this wasn't anybody on the list, but either way it's sad when a Starquest is removed from service http://www.miamihera...njured-car.html -Bill B.

Saw this while playing on Craigslist. I have no connection to sale http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/3718553903.html

Thanks for the reply, but the plugs and wires were replaced under 1500 miles ago.

Hi- I have an '89 quest mostly stock with manual trans 111,000 miles (Washington, DC area). Over the last few weeks the engine would "drag" when starting- I thought it was a battery problem, but last Friday (temp around 30 deg F), it kept cranking and cranking but no starting. On Saturday (temp around 50 deg F) it started after a little stumbling and then idled fine (but a little high). This morning was another 30 degree day and again, engine cranks and cranks but no start. Not sure where to begin. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill B. PS I still have the oil burning problem noted in the below thread (not sure if connected to the above problem- am planning on replacing valve guide seals next): http://www.starquest...howtopic=133330

Yeah I tested out the PCV and it works great. Regarding the valve cover baffles, can someone please post what they should look like so I can see if they've been removed. If it's not the baffles I'm leaning towards rings, since there is no smoke when I lift off the throttle in neutral (otherwise indicating valve seals). Thanks

Actually it definitely is oil. I meant "dark smoke". It is blue not black and smells like oil not fuel. I'll keep y'all posted as to oil consumption. Thanks.

From the below photo, the wheel on the left is the stock Quest flatside, and the one on the right is the curved back from 14b variant. Also, got the turbo rebuilt and it works great. Oil burning seems down but not eliminated- black smoke still appears under heavy throttle only (so it's probably not valve seals, so that would leave the only other option as being rings). Not sure I want to tear apart the engine at this point, so I guess I'll drive it around for awhile and see how much oil I burn. http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g206/billbosh/IMGP4551.jpg

True, but I had ordered the flatback and the 14b variant I have uses a curved backed compressor wheel, so I had to order a different kit.

OK so here's where we are, the plugs were a bit worn but not necessarily fouled, but they're getting replaced anyways (along with wires). After getting the turbo off it turns out that the previous owner put on a 14b turbo, so I had to order a new kit from Gpopshop. Also, there was some oil coking on the exhaust side but did not appear to be indicative of burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles The compression numbers where about 140 at the front of the engine and increasingly got higher up to 150 at the last cylinder (in excess of factory spec of 143 max), which could possibly be due to increased carbon buildup from burning oil (thereby reducing the overall volume of the chamber and increasing compression)? Thoughts? Thanks, Bill

Thanks. Randy is a solid guy- I've dealt with him a few times. So here's the lowdown so far: Very little oil in the intercooler pipe, engine compression checked out fine and no shaft play in the turbo, so at this point the likely culprits are exhaust side turbo seal or vavle stem seals. The turbo's coming out today for rebuilding so at that point we'll see if the exhaust side turbo seal is leaking. Thanks,

Do you the part number for the OEM PCV valve? All my area Mitsu dealers have no way to look up Starion parts. Also, I ordered a flatback TD05-12A kit from Gpopshop. Thanks,

Assuming it is the turbo, anybody have any leads as to where I can get a high-quality rebuild kit? Also, how do I know which kit to get TD05, TF06? 12A, 14B, 16G, 18G, 20G, 17C, and 19C ? Will they all work for my 89? Nope I just have factory boost gauge. Thanks, Bill

Thanks for all the replies: Not sure, I'll check when I get home. Has about 112,000 miles on the motor. Turbo is stock (but has BOV). Not sure whether the boost has been turned up by the previous owner, but I suspect that it has (when I give it heavy throttle the boost gauge reads 14). Thanks again.

Hi My 89 Conquest is consuming over 1 quart of Mobil 1 every 1000 miles. There is blue smoke coming from the exhaust under heavy accelleration and there is an oil burning smell coming from the engine. There are no external leaks. On these cars which is the likely culprit? Valve guides? Rings?Something else? Thanks, Bill

VERY tempting. My office is in Reston and it's a hike. Is this year round?

Thanks for the replies. In a perfect world, I (or an experienced professional) would go over the wiring with a fine-tooth comb and address all the wiring issues, but neither I or my Mitsu mechanic have the time, inclination or funds to do so. Any help as to which amperage switch to use would be greatly appreciated. I have the original bound FSMs but can't find the answer. Thanks, Bill

Hi- my a/c system has some electrical bugs (but otherwise is nice and cold), and the only way to get the compressor to turn on and off on command is to install an external toggle switch on the console. Which amp rating (grounded) toggle switch should I use? The switch I'm running now is 15 amps (I think- it was installed by the previous owner) and is ungrounded- the metal on the toggle switch gets way too hot and I need to change it out before the wiring melts (or worse). Thanks, Bill

1977 Trans Am SE http://media.motortopia.com/files/6599/vehicle/4668cc4e2b461/bigbill.jpg

Honda and Toyota sedans typically use timing belts which need to be changed at regular intervals. Nissan sedans usually use timing chains, which are not supposed to be replaced. Look at a used Maxima or Altima.

That's what SHE said. Thanks for the advice!

Hi- I have an '89 Conquest and I need to take off the side mirror housings. I need a socket to do this and the largest I have is 19mm. From eyeballing it, it looks like a 20mm would work. Can somebody please provide confirmation? Thanks, Bill B.

Hi- I have an '89 Conquest and I need to take off the side mirror housings. I need a socket to do this and the largest I have is 19mm. From eyeballing it, it looks like a 20mm would work. Can somebody please provide confirmation? Thanks, Bill B.