Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About aba16vt

  • Birthday 01/28/1985

Profile Information

  • Interests
    anything with a turbo
  • Location
    albuquerque NM
  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
  • Model
  • Type
  • Model Year
  • Transmission Type
  • Factory Color
    After Market
  • Interior Color
    Dark Red
  • Status
    Being Modded

aba16vt's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)



  1. have these sitting in my garage, forgot I had them I will get a pic up of them this afternoon. these are off an 88 and are heated. 35 shipped obo please email me with questions as I dont get on here anymore, sold my conquest aba16vt@gmail.com thanks Eric http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m313/slickshoe1603/conquest.jpg http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m313/slickshoe1603/conquest2.jpg http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m313/slickshoe1603/conquest3.jpg
  2. YES that video is exactly what it is doing! im at work so i havent had a chance to read through all of that.........yet. but im sure there is a solution to the problem in there somewhere. thanks for the responses!!
  3. so i had a chance to try and set the tps and ics. something isnt right fully warmed up the ics is still reading 2.24 volts do i have a bad temp sensor? and when i checked the tps it was reading like .09 so i tried to adjust it and all i could get out of it turned fully clockwise was .26v. the idle is sitting at about 850-900 fully warmed up and i do think the ics is working, the idle is much higher on initial cold start. so someone tell me what im doing wrong or what you might think im doing wrong.
  4. ok so the title says 87 but the plate in the door says manufactured in 86 so which is it? is it possible that i have that sensor in my car? what does it look like?
  5. well i have voltage to both plugs, i will have to chase the other wire and see what its doing
  6. sounds good! i unwrapped the wiring to the injector plugs down to where it goes into the harness but i need to cut the shrink tube off the wire to look at it. i got fed up and made some dinner instead. i didnt think to check the plug for voltage i will do that. thanks again
  7. ok so everything is back together and the car idles pretty cherry. i am still running into fuel issues still which i have narrowed down the the secondary injector. i have plugged the primary fuel injector plug into it to ensure its still working and it is. so something is happening between the ecu and the injector plug. when i take the car out for a spin it runs fine as soon as i get to about 1800-2000 rpm it just falls on its a$s untill it gets back down to like 1500 rpm. it will also cut out on a high rev when its parked i will rev it up and when i let off the gas peddle and then pump it again it doesnt do anything untill it gets back down to a lower rpm. i feel like it has something to do with boost but i dont know. any thoughts on this issue??
  8. ok so i think i have the distributor plugged into the wrong port. and those are the only two that are hooked up all the egr stuff is removed. well i am the one who put it back together a tooth off, i replaced the head gasket a while back and there is such a small amount of movement in the cam gear when turning the crank that when i put it back together it looked correct until i saw the photo of the distributor you posted. i know your thinking why did i pull the cam gear out since i didnt need to to do the head gasket. long story short the car was roled in gear with the head off which bent the bracket that holds the cam gear so i had to take it off to get that bracket out. had i actualy drawn a line up the cam gear it may have shown i put it back together wrong. the main issue i was having with the distributor was because the cam gear was off, no matter which tooth i used to set the distributor it didnt have enough rotational movement to set the initial timing correctly. i was hitting the stud just to get 10 degrees. with it set now i can get 10 degrees with the dist stud almost in the middle.
  9. no with the vac line on it didnt move to the middle timing mark it moved counter clockwise to the middle of the block, like tons of advance. as far as the timing backing off under throttle i watched the timing more closely last night after doing whats listed below and it just backs off for a second when the vac drops and then climbs back up. that picture was worth a head ache or two, i was having major issues with the distributor not having enough range to bring the car into proper timing even moving teeth and i suspected i was off a tooth on the cam gear. after seeing that and knowing forsure where the cap was supposed to point i was certain it was the timing chain so i pulled the cam gear and fixed that now everything lines up correctly. so with all the timing corrected and the vac line disconnected it runs much better and holds 10btdc as soon as i connect vac advance goes way up and runs poor from all the timing, i will need to do the tps/ics settings and see where it lands. also if the computer is sensing knock does it do a fuel cut? thanks everyone for all the input so far
  10. ok let me see if im following, so is 10 degrees initial ok? but when i put the vac lin on its not supposed to bring the timing up much or at all?? the idle was way high so i did need to back it off but i also understand i need to set the timing again since i have now adjusted airflow. i set the timing at 10 and when i connected the vac line the timing mark went to about the middle of the motor while i was watching it. which brought the rpm up more. so where should the timing set whith the vac line connected and the motor idling properly? and with the motor idling at 1200-1300 when i gave it gas the timing would back off. which i found odd too. i did make sure to have slack in the throttle cable so i could back the throttle down i will just have to mess with it some more and the part in bold im not following if you can please go more indept on that i would greatly apriciate it. so there are two screws on the TB one is for the throttle plate and i take it the other one goes to the motor your talking about? also what does MPS stand for
  11. thanks! i cant seem to ever find what im looking for when i do a search on this site.
  12. cool thanks Bill, yeah after thinking about it for a while i came to the realization it might have something to do with the isc screw and tps. i havent had a chance to check it yet though. it basicly does it at what im guessing is about to be 1 pound of boost i dont have a wide band on it but if i dont figure this out im yanking the stock stuff and going straight to the stand alone. i know how that works! i was just hoping to drive this thing in stock form while i make a multiport manifold for it. no boost leaks vacume lines are all connected or pluged (last time i drove it had 4 open and ran great what is the correct tps voltage seting at closed throttle? and what is the correct way to set the isc screw? im not Familiar with that at all
  13. yeah the car was pretty warmed up. i just found it odd since it had never done that before. any other thoughts?
  14. this was no mis fire, it was my foot on the gas and everything just quit kinda thing like the motor was off. by mess with the timing i mean i set the timing. last time i drove it the timing was just in the ball park. i may have set it wrong. i set the timing to about 10 degrees with the vacume line discontected, with it reconnected it pulled the timing up. give it some gas and it backs the timing off. working like its supposed to as far as i can tell. one thing i forgot to mention is that the idle was rather high with the timing set so i turned the idle screw to bring it down, the car was still very responsive to the throttle, idled great, ran great up until it was about to make boost. i probably should have double checked the timing at that point to make sure it was still right. i dont see that giving me a fuel cut issue though.
  • Create New...